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E-60 won't raise??? I'm stumped..

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by bronco69, Nov 27, 2009.

  1. bronco69

    bronco69 Member
    Messages: 40

    I have an E-60 that I just put a new sump base on. Before i put the new sump base on it worked fine other than a cracked lug. I have rebuilt several pumps myself so I decided to take this task on myself. I bought the sump base brand new from Angelos. I removed my PA block and put it on the new sump base after I put on three new o-rings in the sump base. I then put in my A-valve and put on all the coils. I put in new filters and reused my pressure relief valve. I reused my old pump check valve (I forgot to get that new o-ring so I reused it too) and I reused my old pump because it worked great. I reused my motor plate but put new gaskets on it and I put on a brand new OEM Iskra motor. I then put a brand new 6" lift ram, new packing cup, lower cylinder o-ring, and a new top cap on it. I filled it with fluid and it worked fine at first, but now it won't raise. It starts to raise to the point where it's getting ready to pick up the blade but as it starts it just stops lifting. If I disconnect the blade the ram goes up with no problems. I put in a brand new B-valve and swapped out an A-valve from another pump that I have but I got the same result. I have magnetism on the A-valve. I turned the pressure valve in all the way to make sure that I am getting full pressure, but I still got the same results. I am thinking of three ideas but I wanted to know if I am on the right track. Is it possible that reusing the pump check valve o-ring could cause this? Is it possible that the pump went out? Or is it bad that the sump base was bad from the factory? Reminder (It did work up down left right when I tested it 15 to 20 times? I rebuilt it at a friends house, tested it, drove it home then it wouldn't raise. Retested on his truck and it still wouldn't raise??? Any help would be great as I am stumped right now.
     
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Raise the plow with a floor jack as far as practical, then run the pump up to remove the slack from the chain. Remove the jack. Does the pump hold the blade up or does it leak down?
     
  3. bronco69

    bronco69 Member
    Messages: 40

    I'll try that in the morning, but what will that tell me if it holds?
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It'll give you an idea of what is or isn't sealing (or producing) pressure between the pump and the lift ram.

    Should get a pressure gauge on it as well. Simply turning the relief valve all the way in can cause other issues with the same symptoms.
     
  5. bronco69

    bronco69 Member
    Messages: 40

    Hey B&B,
    I jcked the blade up like you said and the pump held with no problems. I checked the drop down and it worked perfectly also. I did not put a pressure gauge on it yet because i'm not sure where to connect it and how to do it properly. Also by all the way in i mean that when i tokk it out of the old pump it turned out 17 turns and when I put it in the new pump I turned it it 17 turns. Also like I said the pump worked at first and sometime during transport between his house and my house it quit working. Thanks for your help.
     
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Now that you know it will hold it tell us that the packings and O-rings are good in the lift cylinder, the A valve is holding fine and the B valve and O-rings are good. So that means it's a pressure issue. It either blew the gear pump O-ring out or the relief isn't set or wasn't assembled correctly.

    To test the pump pressure with a gauge you tee it into the pass side angle hose and angle the blade fully to the left (letting the pump hit the relief) and read the gauge while it's against the relief. Should be set about 2300 PSI. If it's low, or you can get it to come up then it's caused by the O-ring I mentioned on the pump.
     
  7. Kenyou

    Kenyou Senior Member
    Messages: 375


    B&B I have a question about the location of the T. Does it matter if it is on the right or the left angle hose?
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's easier to use the pass side hose as then it allows you to jump the underhood solenoid while standing in front of the truck so you can view the gauge (remember, left is default). If you use the driver side hose then you either need a helper to operate the controls or an extra jumper wire to activate the C valve.

    Easier when you're running as a one man band and safer too. You know the plow isn't going to move until YOU move it yourself.
     
  9. Kenyou

    Kenyou Senior Member
    Messages: 375


    Thank you B&B. I have to make one of those up. Any recomendations as to brand and size or will any air guage work?
     
  10. bronco69

    bronco69 Member
    Messages: 40

    Hey B&B,
    Just wanted to let you know that you are the man!!! It turned out that all it waw, was the o-ring on the pump itself like you said. Good call 95 cents and 20 minutes work. Now she runs like brand new. I do have one more question for you though. My brother has an E-60H that works great other than when you hit the float switch it's hard to get the ram to go all the way down so you can get the chain off? It has a newer lift ram on it that rolls true. Any suggestions? Thanks again..
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Brand name isn't critical, an inexpensive one does the job as well as a $100 one. All that is important is that you have one with enough capacity. 3000 PSI is the minimum scaling you want for testing pump psi. If you'll also be using it to set cross over reliefs then you'll need one 4000 psi minimum. Do make sure it recommend for hydraulic use.
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Good to hear. It's those inexpensive parts that cause the most issues. Should teach you not to re-use an O-ring again too. :D


    You're other pump likely needs the top guide bushing and wiper ring replaced as they'll get a little tight on the ram. Both are in the top cap.