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E-60 Motor/Pump, Rotation of Motor and Effort to Turn Pump

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by Earl W., Sep 30, 2007.

  1. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    I have drained and refilled with new meyers fluid, no luck.

    Unit in vise, power supply hooked up; motor turns, can't leave on long due to smoke at electrical clamps- but ram does not move.

    Motor removed, power supply hooked up;looking from end that mounts to pump, turns clockwise, no smoke at clamps, turns for a long time.

    Pump turns easy clockwise (looking at pump from motor side) does not turn easy counterclockwise (same direction as motor is turning when hooked to pump) but I can turn it by hand with two fingers.

    Fluid out, motor off, pump cover off; pump turns easy both directions, squirts out residual fluid when turning counterclockwise.

    Does this sound like the pump bad? Is it unbolt/bolt operation?

  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Earl, it's struggling because the fluid has no where to go when your operating the motor. When you run the pump by just powering the motor and not activating any of the valves..it try's to "angle left". Well, with the pump on the bench and no angle hoses hooked to it, the fluid has no where to go...it's dead heading against the pressure relief valve and the angle left hose coupler. In order to test it like you are, you also need to apply power the the B valve to open it to allow the fluid to raise the lift ram.This is the one with the red wire.
  3. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Thanks B&B for the quick reply.
    Put motor back on and can't get it to budge even with power to red wire. Removed motor again and it does move but maybe I need more voltage. I have just under 12 volts on power supply, so I am charging it now hoping this makes a difference.

    I should let you know: I haven't had this fully mounted as I had a manual angle ST-90 w/E-46, made up wiring from generic toggle switch 'down' to solenoid 'up' to pump. I now need to wire for the power angle and was just trying to check the pump functions. Any suggestions on the wiring? I was hoping I wouldn't need to buy a wiring harness with switch.
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You may just not have enough power or a good enough connection at the motor as an E60 motor draws 230 amps to operate the pump up to the max pressure setting of 2500 psi but check the brushes in the motor to make sure they're not stuck or corroded as this is very common on the E60 pumps. Also, if this pump has set around, the B valve may not be opening even though you now have power to the red wire.
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2007
  5. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68


    Battery pack fully charged now motor will not turn pump even with power to B valve. No smoke like before at connections. Motor will turn when it's off pump. All coils are magnetized.
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Did you check the brushes like I mentioned in a previous past? The motor will "free run" without a load on it with 2 of the 4 brushes stuck or corroded but it wont have enough power to spin the pump when an actual load is applied to it with only 2 brushes making contact. Sine you mentioned that you can spin the pump by hand then I don't think you have a gear pump problem. It's more than likely a motor problem if the motor won't spin at all.
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2007
  7. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    I don't know if I want to deal with the brushes, it may be simple but I keep thinking of a deep snow and the pump doesn't work. So, I found someone who'll bench test it for me. Not knowing much about the history of the pump I thought it would be good to have it thoroughly tested. Thanks for the advice.
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Understood. The brush job isn't too bad but sometimes when your not comfortable with doing something yourself, then taking it to a shop isn't a bad idea. Keep us posted on your findings.
  9. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    Repair cost estimate makes doing the repair myself a lot more attractive.

    Got the Meyer e-60 service manual from 10/2005.

    I looked at what I think are the brushes (see pictures) and they won't budge. Should I use baking soda/water, wd-40 to loosen them?

    I assume they should just pull out of the holders? Is it likely to clean and re-use or just replace? I found brushes online for ~$70 but a new motor was ~$90-120.

    Do I have a fenner motor? (see picture) The manual lists the two terminal p/n 15841 but not the single terminal and I'm not sure from the online supplier search. (I plan on confirming before order parts)

    Also, it appears? (see picture) that the elbow with the female coupler is bent (I think it should be a true 90 degree) and the coupler's spring is broken.



  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Earl, judging by your pics, don't waste your time or money on a set of brushes. Just replace the whole motor as you have a lot of corrosion going on inside there (which of course is why you can't remove the brushes).That is a very very common problem on the old style motors. Your current motor is the single stud "Fenner" style motor and I'd recommend replacing it with the newer double stud "ISKRA" style motor. As to the bent elbow, it shouldn't cause you any problems but you can replace it if you want but I would replace the quick coupler so it doesn't cause a problem later.
  11. Earl W.

    Earl W. Member
    Messages: 68

    I will get a new motor and thanks for answering my eventual double/single stud interchangability question.

    I assume the ground wire now goes to the motor and not the body of the pump.

    I found some CRC battery cleaner and tried that on the brushes. Left it on for a few hours and TWO actually came out.

    Still replacing the motor..$100 insurance policy. But is is interesting what happens when you feel you have nothing to lose. Good experience.

    Once I get the motor on, I plan to check pressures by hooking a 5000psi gauge (found one for $12 and fittings can't be much) in hoses.

    Do I need to use a tee between hoses hooked together while on the bench or can I put it on the end of a hose? (the book says 'in the circuit')

    To check the crossover valve with pump on the vehicle according to the book, it looks like I need a tee to do this.
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Run the battery ground directly to the new double stud motor but also run a ground from the motor stud/battery cable over to the pump housing base where it was connected with the old motor. This will insure a good ground to the valve coils and prevent electrolysis between the pump housing and the motor.

    Absolutely Earl, what good is a plow if it doesn't work when you need it the most? Money well spent...

    To set the pump pressure on the bench, simply thread a female half of a quick coupler onto your gage and plug it directly into the male half of the coupler that's on the pump. This is your "angle left" hose port. By using this port, you can set the pump pressure just by powering the motor, you wont need to operate any of the valve's while doing the pressure test.

    To check the crossover, you will need to tee the gage into an angle hose.