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E-47 wont go up - will angle left and right

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by m2low, Aug 24, 2009.

  1. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    just started redoing some stuff on the plow, after I was done the plow tried to lift once, but no fluid - topped off the fluid and then it will not go up - but will angle left and right - will go down - wondering if its the selenoid? I know I should have left it alone - but it needed fluid :D LOL any suggestions? there is no motor noise when I push up on the switch - the left and right work fine, and down will let me push the ram down..
     
  2. SnowLane

    SnowLane Senior Member
    Messages: 125

    It sounds like the "A" valve is stuck open.
     
  3. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    will a "technical tap" of the A valve get it to work again? the motor is not even making any noise when pushing up...
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If the motor doesn't run for the raise function only then you have a controller issue, not a valve or pump issue. Touch pad style controller?
     
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    I'll bet double toggle and a wire off the back of the switch:cool:
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2009
  6. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    double toggle you are correct sir! but the wiring is a BRAND new harness - just installed - it worked once but I was out of fluid - could be the switch went bad... ??
     
  7. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    that makes me feel a little better - I will continue to chase my wiring and the switch.
     
  8. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Make sure one of the wires didn't become detached from the funky plastic "plug" sometimes one of the connectors does not properly connect but stays in the housing. My quess would be the white wire.
     
  9. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    going to have to just put a huge blog of solder on them - thats why I replaced the old harness was intermitant work/not work on the angle switch..... at with the old one I could raise the plow LOL -
     
  10. kolkie05

    kolkie05 Senior Member
    from Chicago
    Messages: 114

    I had the same problem last year with my Meyer turned out it was a short in the electrical.
     
  11. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    hoping that the new wiring harness does not have a short - hope its just the lift switch - the terminals on the back did seem a little loose.
     
  12. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    dug some more into this today and it does click when I hit the switch but just does not lift - I am guess I need a new valve at this point :( money is tight,but as long as its being torn into would like to rebuild it - its so old - is there a place thats decent and fair priced, or how hard is it honestly to rebuild myself - i like to think I am handy with tools, but I tried to do a yamah a motorcycle with 4 carbs and found out in precision work I suck - rebuild kits come with that valve? would that be extra or can it be done just the valve????? I am a personal use guy so any advice is taken, you guys are the pros - I just like pushing snow!! (not with a shuvel)
     
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    What "just clicks" in the raise function? The under hood solenoid..or the B valve on the pump? Or the motor only clicks?
     
  14. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    something in the yellow part mounted on the front - something in the base, possibly the b valve - NOT the selenoid under the hood - its in the yellow part on the mount in the front.
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    So the motor still doesn't run in the raise function...you only hear the B valve (the lift valve) on the pump click. Sounds like you still have a switch issue. Could just need a fresh lift switch. You can hot wire it with a helper and a jumper wire to activate the underhood solenoid to check for raise operation very easily.
     
  16. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    really - still sounds like a switch issue? even if something is clicking in the pump assembly itself up front? so I would be shorting from batt + to the selenoid on post - and then on the switch the center position to the bottom of the switch (the post for when its in the up or rasie position) correct?
     
  17. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    The switch has to send signals to two different places. Check to see if the wire wire is connected to the lift switch and sending 12vt to the 12 volt motor solenoid. If not and the white wire has continuity, then the switch is bad.
     
  18. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    As Basher mentioned the switch is a double pole double throw switch in that it performs two separate functions. It activates the B valve on the pump with it's one function AND simultaneously trips the under hood pump motor solenoid with it's other. So you can certainly have one function but not the other.

    To first test that the pump itself is working correctly have a helper hold the switch in the raise position while you take a small gage jumper wire and touch it from the positive battery terminal to the small terminal on the under hood solenoid that should have a white wire connected to it.

    If the pump raises with this procedure then you still have a control issue, either the lift switch or a connection between it and the under hood solenoid on the white wire.
     
  19. m2low

    m2low Member
    Messages: 74

    I guess I will be doing some in depth troubleshooting tonight - hopefullly with a fix (not real fond of the new meyer white plastic stuff around the terminals) to make sure they have good connection - taking all of this info into play (did not realize they turn on the selenoid for all functions) and learning some more about this thing tonight! would be curious for an exploded labelled view of the whole unit, and possible a what valve does what function explanation - the more I have (including time) the more I learn....

    you are correct its a white wire on the selenoid (new harness I did not get a chance to cut into yet) and quite honeslty I am not so convinced the wiring is good - the harness used to have this nice thick SO coated cable with the 4 wires running up front, that was real nice... but the new ones are just wires in some cheap wire loom with some not so good quality white plastic connections on the back of the switches - the old ones were REALLY nice, and fit real well, if mine were not all beat up from years of abuse I would have transferred them... anyone know why they changed that?
     
  20. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You can get all the Meyer pump manuals, exploded views and wiring descriptions here: Meyer page

    Cost/low volume product would be the reasons on the harness changes, classic symptom of the lowest bidder on the totem pole maneuver many manufacture use today. Same old adage, they don't make them like they used to.