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E-47 pump arm

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by james.j.smith, Dec 28, 2010.

  1. james.j.smith

    james.j.smith Senior Member
    from 19033
    Messages: 145

    while preparing for sundays storm I had no plow controls. now today they kinda work I do not have the plow installed but the pivot arm will go up not down and the pump motor engages when i move the stick left.

    My question is should I be able to push the arm the chain attaches to down by hand? I've tried while moving the contol stick down and it will not move. If I can get some help I'm going to see if I have power to my soleniods tonight. Since it worked last I've changed the solinoid under the hood and added fluid.
     
  2. MSplowing

    MSplowing Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 42

    With the control on for it to go down you should be able to push down on it, all my E47 pumps will anyways.
     
  3. geer hed

    geer hed Senior Member
    Messages: 275

    put your control in the down/float position, then push down on the arm, you may need to stick a piece of pipe or a prybar in the hole at the end of the arm to get more leverage but it should go down, I've seen them get stuck before. If it doesn't check the C-coil, the one with the black wire, for power and magnetism. that is the valve that will let the plow drop. If it has magnetism then pull and check the valve itself.
     
  4. Nasty-Z

    Nasty-Z Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    "A" coil and valve control the down function , not the "C" :)

    Check for magnetism at the "A" coil (the small one by itself at the back of the unit) while the controller is in down/float , if no magnetism check for voltage at the black wire leading to the coil , if magnetism is present remove and inspect the cartridge.

    You did not mention which controller you have , does it function left and up only, or will right function also ?

    TOM
     
  5. geer hed

    geer hed Senior Member
    Messages: 275

    I got the wire color right, so 1/2 aint bad. Thanks for correcting me, I know it's the A but can't figgure for the life of me why I put C.
     
  6. Nasty-Z

    Nasty-Z Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    It's all good , I knew what you meant. :nod:

    Sometimes I sausage finger things myself..........:laughing:

    TOM
     
  7. james.j.smith

    james.j.smith Senior Member
    from 19033
    Messages: 145

    I figured it out today, I didn't't have power for some reason at my controller I hooked a temporary line to directly to the battery and I have power to all the solenoids. I'm not sure how this happened but at least i know how to fix it. the wire was spliced into a purple and White wire that I am not getting any power to does anyone know what this wire is?

    In troubleshooting I noticed that I have a constant 12V on the small terminal on the plow solenoid under the hood. It will drop to 6V when I try and use the controls. I just replaced this solenoid but this doen't seem right to me. Does anyone know how this solenoid is suppose to operate?

    thanks for all your help this site has been extremely helpful, I'm beginning to compare my plow truck to my old boat use it one week and spend the next two weeks working on it. thanks again
     
  8. james.j.smith

    james.j.smith Senior Member
    from 19033
    Messages: 145

    sorry the wire was purple with a pink stripe
     
  9. geer hed

    geer hed Senior Member
    Messages: 275

    OK first you should not have constant power to the small terminal on the celenoid under the hood. that should only be energized when one of the controls are activated. With that wire energized your pump should be running continuously, unless you have a bad ground. That purple wire is either for something else or someone used it to lengthen a wire.

    Electro Touch Control

    orange = ground
    blue = power to switch w/fuse (from trucks ignition switch)
    white = to selenoid under the hood
    black = A coil (lower)
    red = B coil (raise)
    green = C coil (angle right)

    slick stick controls
    black = power to control / fused
    white = to selenoid under hood

    the rest are the same black, red, green.
     
  10. james.j.smith

    james.j.smith Senior Member
    from 19033
    Messages: 145

    thanks, the purple wire was what my black wire from the slick stik control was spliced to to provide power for control. I think that it is my turn signal and overdrive wire since the fuse was blown for my turn signals. I disconnected the black wire and I'm going to rewire it this week. Should the black wire be fused and if yes what size fuse?
     
  11. geer hed

    geer hed Senior Member
    Messages: 275

    Yes it should be fused with a 10A inline fuse, and power should be taken from the fuse box, that is hot only with the ignition on.
     
  12. james.j.smith

    james.j.smith Senior Member
    from 19033
    Messages: 145

    thank you I'll give that a shot this week. Do you know if I can but the motor solenoid from a auto parts store. It looks very similar to a starter solenoid? thanks again
     
  13. geer hed

    geer hed Senior Member
    Messages: 275

    Yep, just ask for a ford style starter selenoid with 3 studs, 2 bigger and 1 small. The bracket where it mounts to the fender may be different but it still works the same, there is nothing special about the meyers celenoids except maybe the price.
     
  14. fordsuvparts

    fordsuvparts Senior Member
    Messages: 135

    Sorry there is a big difference in the solenoids. The ford solenoid is not rated for continuous duty, and the Meyer or other plowing solenoids are rated for continuous use. You will burn through the cheap starters solenoids very quickly.
     
  15. geer hed

    geer hed Senior Member
    Messages: 275

    Well I have been using them for years with absolutaly no problems. In fact the one on my dads jeep, using an E47, has a selenoid that I took off a ford garden tractor 4 years ago and works with no problem, also used one on a buddies jeep 3 years ago still working, used one on another buddies F-450, 2 years ago still working, want me to continue. I have found that the ford selenoids actually seem to work better and last longer.
     
  16. james.j.smith

    james.j.smith Senior Member
    from 19033
    Messages: 145

    I'm heading to the parts tore today does anyone know the part number for the solenoid that I should get. Thanks again