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E-47 Help

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by mbsa, Jul 30, 2009.

  1. mbsa

    mbsa Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    I'm trying to get the valve block off of my E-47 and I can't get the bolts to break loose. Any one ever have this problem?? If so do you have any tips?? I don't want to break the bolt off, so I thought I would ask here for some advice.

    Thanks!
    MBSA
     
  2. wild bill

    wild bill PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,239

    stuck

    those steel cap screw's really get stuck in alum.don't they .try to soak them with kroil or silo screw loose ,let set for a while then dump the solvent off and dry so as not to burn and very carefully use a mini torch and try to heat the corner's only where the bolts are .if you have one use a dewalt or similar impact driver and see if it will shock them loose .they are prob stuck in the valve block ,filled up with corrosion in the through hole .if they come out clean them up and the hole's coat the bolt's with some never sieze .:salute:
     
  3. smokejmpr

    smokejmpr Inactive
    Messages: 159

    can you get any loose?
     
  4. mbsa

    mbsa Junior Member
    Messages: 12

    I haven't got any of them to break loose. I'm going to work on it today.
     
  5. smokejmpr

    smokejmpr Inactive
    Messages: 159

    if you want give me a call and i can try to help. I have rebuilt several pumps in my time.
    877-361-2227 ask for James
     
  6. Chrisxl64

    Chrisxl64 Senior Member
    from CT
    Messages: 574

    Some quick strikes and some heat will hopefully help, unfortunately aluminum tends to get tricky when heated, try to heat only in the area that is needed.
     
  7. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Soak it in a steady world of PB Blaster (the Kano stuff is OK) for a couple days then try working the bolts loose. Be very careful with heat:nod: you can do as much damage as good. Heat the B&B not the PA block, heat where the bolts thread into the B&S and tap with a Little hammer while trying to turn both directions as if you were tappping a hole. If the bolts are that corroded it's possible they are locked up along the shafts where it passes though the PA block as well. if the threads are too heavily corroded in the B&S then is it really something you want to depend on in the middle of a storm? If it's too bad I would consider trashing the Base and Sump assembler. Save the payupPA block.

    Then you can rebuild the unit on a quality part.

    Why are you taking it apart?
     
  8. milwaukeevtwin

    milwaukeevtwin Senior Member
    Messages: 335

    E-47 with a 6.6

    I have an e-47 with a 6.6 blade for a jimmy. I took the whole plow apart and painted it all and put it all back together with new parts. When the plow goes to the drivers side, it stops hard. When it stops it shakes the plow. It works fine in every other way. Any suggestions? Could it be a valve? I greased all the bolts where the grease points are and it did not help. Could the pivot bolt be to tight, But why would it only happen one way?
    Thanks, Ron
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    It's 100% normal and no reason for alarm.


    Angle left is the default function for these pumps. In other words when no valves are open but you run the motor, the plow will angle to the left. With a fast pump like the E57/58/60 and a toggle or slik-stik style controller you'll always get the banging and jumping when angeling to the RIGHT, but will stop smoothly when angling left. And yes you'll also get the "left creeping" every time you raise the plow. All those common characteristics are totally normal.

    And it's due to the fact that during right angle the C valve slams closed as soon as you let off the controller...causing the blade to bang to a stop. But due to the fluid flow design in the Meyer pumps, when angling to the left, you use no valves...so when you angle left no valves are actually open. In that case when you let off the controller, the blade comes to a smooth stop as the gear pump/motor "winds down" to a stop. Same way when raising, once you let off the controller at the top, the B valve (raise valve) closes but the pump/motor continue to run for a second...and with no valves open it angles to the left, causing the left angle "creep" every time your raise.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2009
  10. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Changing to a touch pad control can alleviate the "slamming"
     
  11. tyler04jones

    tyler04jones Member
    Messages: 32


    Hey i had the same problem i used my dewalt impact with a bit of wd-40 and they came right out if you got a one of these impact drivers use it and it should come right out like mine did hope it helps