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e-47 converted to e-57 know problem

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by badbowtie, Feb 27, 2015.

  1. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    I have a e-47 that I have been using and after last week of finally getting some snow and plowing for 44 hours I went ahead and ordered the pump and motor for a e57. I installed it all Wednesday night the new motor had two studs so I wired my positive to the one and made a 1 foot 2 gauge ground to go from motor stud down to back of pump where factory ground was. It worked great up and down left and right and seemed allot stronger than the old e47. I worked it around for about 5 minutes and no problems. So yesterday morning I go out to drive my kids down to the bus and went to raise the plow and it was very slow like twice as long as the e-47 was. Left and right was supper slow also. I figured I would look at it later, so I did yesterday afternoon and it is really slow and I am not sure why one night works great 12 hours later extremely slow. I am not sure if I got a cheep motor and that is the issue or what is the problem.
     
  2. tjctransport

    tjctransport PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,390

    contaminated oil in the pump causing it to bind up possibly?
     
  3. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    I wouldn't think it is oil it is still nice and clean and only has about 50 hours of use this past month. I would think it has something to do with connections or pump or motor. Just not sure how to check which one is the issue.
     
  4. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Okay just went out to try couple more things and pulled the motor off and the pump shaft turns nice. So bolted the motor back on and decided to check fluid again and it had all kinds of pressure build up shot plug up and fluid poured out I have no idea what causes that. But thinking that is why it is so slow being building up pressure. I am pretty sure I have motor hooked up right if you look at this picture my right wire is positive and left is ground is this correct.

    PART_1425045208110_20150227_083903.jpg
     
  5. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,960

    You can try switching them.
    But fyi, that small wire should be the same size as the other.
     
  6. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Yea I am going to switch everything to 4 gauge but shouldn't have anything to do with what it is doing I wouldn't think but. I am not sure what would be causing all the pressure being built up know is why I am really confused.
     
  7. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,960

    Ok, looking closer at your pic, that lift ram seal is leaking and by the looks of it your ram is shot. Might just be frozen.
     
  8. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    That motor should have been marked which is positive and which is ground. Find out first. You need to run the ground to the battery and no where else. Also, those are Fenner/SPX stone motors and the pump it self you upgraded (higher volume=faster) is also fenner. It now takes more power to compress more fluid. You may have diminishing returns if your electrical system is not up to par and cannot keep up. Do an amp draw test. Again, make sure you have the wires correct on the pump motor. Also run larger cables too.
     
  9. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    No the pits at the ram stop right their and all the fluid all over is from unscrewing the check plug it shot out everywhere. I just plowed saturday 23 hours straight and never a drop of fluid leaked I just replaced that seal a month ago because it was 10 years old and started to show cracks. This all worked fine 2 days ago switched to the e57 motor and pump and worked for couple minutes that night then Thursday and today is really really slow and is building up allot of pressure under the fluid level bolt. From all the pics I can find positive and negative are right but wondering if that is my pressure issue. Of course motor studs have no markings on it.
     
  10. Bashby

    Bashby Senior Member
    Messages: 228

    Have you tried reversing the terminals? Sounds like it could be running backwards and creating its own air pocket. That would explain fluid shooting outbox the top.
     
  11. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,641

    Most of the Meyer motors were marked with A2 and D1 at the terminals. A2 being positive and D2 being negative. I would also suggest attaching your negative directly to the motor stud from the bumper plug then run another wire from there back to the ground bolt on the pump base. Would suggest the 3 wire motor harness but looks like you have a different bumper plug. Also like SS suggest get the correct size wire. These motors need more power then the little 3" motors. Would also check your connector for power the smaller wire and larger motor could have enough resistance to be arching the connection.

    EDIT: It may also be time for a new vent cap if you are building that much pressure. Try running the pump with cap off and see if there is an improvement.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2015
  12. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Okay once I get back home this afternoon I am going to run a new 2 gauge wire straight from battery stud to solenoid for positive and negative. Here is the link to where the motor came from and I just spoke with them they have have no idea which is which trying to tell me it don't matter so it can turn either way so they have pissed me off. They are telling me it is isolated and does not matter which is which. I would think it would change which way it spins. If I unbolt the motor which way is it supposed to turn maybe that is the issue.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/371045465390?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2015
  13. kimber750

    kimber750 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,641

    Believe right lug should be negative and left positive. Normally when these are hooked up backwards the pump will have no functions. How does the motor sound when trying to operate plow?
     
  14. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    If that is right then I have the wires backwards. But by all the pictures I think I have it all right. Which I would think would explain all the pressure built up but don't know. I think the motor sounds slow almost like backwards or voltage issue which is why I am going to try to make new wires without quick disconnect hopefully this afternoon and see what happens.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2015
  15. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    You can take the brush cover off under that top cover. Once you get the brush cover off be carful as not to pop the brushes out. Follow the wires from the lug area and see what wires attach to the brush holders. This will be the positive wire. This should answer your question. When taking the bolts out of the cover, be careful of the other side of the motor to make sure everything is in place. Matter of fact your best bet is to do this on the pump.
     
  16. JeepCoMJ

    JeepCoMJ Senior Member
    Messages: 284

    forward lug (right side in the pic) is POSITIVE. Rear one is negative.

    it's wired wrong. above and beyond that, those fenner 2 pole motors are junk. ISKRA or the Chinese knock offs are all I use...preferably ISKRA.

    now, when you had the motor off, did you put new O-rings on? if so, did you get the check valve reinstalled correctly? Spring, then ball, then collar, then o-ring.

    I would say it's more likely that you have water in it than anything...or the filter sock was plugged by higher fluid flow and debris, judging from the outward condition of the rest of the pump.

    Did you refill the fluid after installing the new pump? If not, low fluid could be the issue...the supply port runs direct off the reservoir, and would leak it down to minimal.

    What type of fluid do you use? Meyer can NOT run anything but -50 rated plow oil, no matter the brand. ATF, hydraulic oil both freeze up, and wreak havoc on the O-rings
     
  17. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Okay front stud right one in picture is what I have positive on and negative on left so that should be right. When I pulled the old motor and pump I did install new o ring's. I also did make sure it was spring then ball and collar with the collar flat side against the ball. Then I topped of the fluid from the very little that ran out. I also do only run the -50 plow oil that is blue. I had the whole unit apart about a month ago when replaced all seals and repacked the ram and cleaned everything really good. I just checked and I only had 9.5 volts at positive and negative stud on motor so I am thinking that is my problem. So I am going to make new cables and clean all ends here shortly.
     
  18. badbowtie

    badbowtie Senior Member
    Messages: 106

    Okay I also just removed the negative cable from my 2nd battery that my plow is hooked to and noticed it was pretty corroded so I cleaned it all up and know my volt gauge in truck is not dropping like it was and seems to be working better but I am going to try to make new cables anyway. But seems jerky left and right and use to be always nice and smooth. Also when I click up and let off before it goes all the way it jerks left a little bit. I am assuming because I am running the old 2 toggle switches.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2015
  19. JeepCoMJ

    JeepCoMJ Senior Member
    Messages: 284

    That is a side effect of the new motor. ...the under hood solenoid kicks off after the coils on valves. ..valves basically closer faster than the motor stops, so it continues to pump momentarily in default Andale with all valves closed.

    Its a sign of a clean pump
     
  20. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,339

    Yup. My Fenner has always done this when I go left or right and let off it will move up an inch.