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Dual battery question????????????

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself to the Community' started by CGLC, Nov 15, 2007.

  1. CGLC

    CGLC Senior Member
    Messages: 100

    :I just installed another batter in my 1998 2500. I ran 4g cable positive to positive negative to negative and then I grounded the negative of the second batter to the thermostat bolt were the thermostat wires connect. ( I have a Hiniker plow and this is what they recommended) Everything works fine, but I notice that when I still put it under a load (hazards, back up lights 55 halogen, and defrost) the volt gauge still dropped down more that I would like. I have not put the plow on yet, but I was just wondering if this is just how it is or am I missing something? :confused:
     
  2. topdj

    topdj Senior Member
    Messages: 396

    are both battery of the same age, within 6-12 months
    sometimes a older battery will bring down the charge on the new if you have a dead cell
    or a weak cell. is your alternator a heavy duty one and working correctly?
    I would disconnect one battery at a time and read the standing voltage on them should be high 12s, if one is under 12 it will bring down the others charge.
    I just did the dual setup on my new 2007 so far it has helped a lot
     
  3. CGLC

    CGLC Senior Member
    Messages: 100

    The alternator is a new last year, and I bought the biggest one they had for my GMC. The second battery is brand new, and the first battery is 3 months old. The only thing I can think of is that about a month ago I left some lights on over night and drained the battery out, but that should not effect it too bad or not at all. The old battery would always charge up to 14.5 . Does your truck after you installed your second battery move the volt gauge at all under 14 when you plow?
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2007
  4. murphyslaw

    murphyslaw Senior Member
    Messages: 443

    I have two large batteries and a 200amp alternator when I have my lights on and hit the plow it still drops to 11.8v and slowly climbs while the plow is running as soon as I let off it jumps back to 14.4
     
  5. topdj

    topdj Senior Member
    Messages: 396

    it will still drop like Murphy says 11v + something depending on your pumps current demand. You may need to charge them up or drive the truck around to charge it a little
     
  6. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992


    The new battery immediately (or sooner) degraded to match the older battery. When replacing batteries always replace both.

    You will not stop the voltage drop, as long as it returns to +12v when the plow pump isn't operating you'll be fine. He!! you'd be good with a 200 amp alt. and one good battery.

    I run heated wipers, heated windshield, heated mirrors, roof, sander and grill strobes, flashers, headlights, heater, satellite radio, 9'1" Vee plow, a snow-ex 8000 with lights, electric windows, cell phone charger, and extra reverse lights. I do it with a factory alt. and single battery, and I do more then just a couple faimaly members drives.
     
  7. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    Is your guage is a true voltage guage of the battery or an ammeter showing whether you are in a charge or drain condition? Isn't it that most stock guages showing a battery at the bottom are ammeters? I think the two function a little differently. What you are describing sounds more like an ammeter. If this is so and you wire up a voltage meter directly to your battery I think you will see that while your stock guage shows a drop, the voltage meter will stay in the 12's, unless there is another problem. Anyone with greater electrical skill than I (it's not my forte), correct me if needed.
     
  8. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,592

    You will still have a power draw when you use your plow.
    The second battery will allow you to plow all night with out having to drive around and charge up your batteries.

    Why did you use your thermostat bolt for a ground?

    Run pos to pos, neg to neg . like you did
    An optional ground to your engine is a good idea too, a good spot would be the same place your alt is grounded to.
    I also ran a small wire to a body panel. this helps to evacuate any noise. (RF)

    Next where is your neg lead from your plow hooked up to?
    I ground mine to the same spot my alt is grounded to.
    Lastly take apart your electrical connections for your plow (all of them ) all the way to the electric motor for your plow and clean them with sandpaper hook them back up and coat them with fluid film.

    Now you can run all night long and your electrical problems should be gone.


    Ho, ya, one more thing service your plow by changing your fluid every year and remember the clean the filter too.
    Using a high quality hydraulic fluid like boss's/snoway/ a AW32 oil will work too this will allow your pump to run smother when it gets cold. result is a lower power draw.
     
  9. hydro_37

    hydro_37 PlowSite Veteran
    from iowa
    Messages: 3,790

    Snowfarmer is right on the money {again). And like others have said.Make sure everything is clean and grounded properly.

    Basher.....where did you get the heaters for the windshield? I need to melt the ice along the bottom of the windshield, by the vent openings.
     
  10. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,592

    Thanks;) but it's just the basics, plowing 101:D

    I think Basher is running heated wiper blades?

    For the ice that builds up around the air intake vents I spray them with some of that windshield de-icer. from out of the cab:D
    (to lazy to get out)
    Seams to work o.k. I have pre-treated the wipers too with some so so results.
     
  11. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992


    http://www.polecatmirrors.com/northwind.html
     
  12. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770


    So, for peel and stick, does that mean they have adhesive or like a vinyl cling material? Are they removable/replaceable? It states they reduce wear in cold rain by keeping the blade warm. Do you notice better clearing in rain? Looks interesting, thanks.
     
  13. hydro_37

    hydro_37 PlowSite Veteran
    from iowa
    Messages: 3,790

    Thanks Basher. Thinking I am gonna order them. For $43 they sound alot better then having to get out a bunch of times in a big storm How well do they work?
     
  14. murphyslaw

    murphyslaw Senior Member
    Messages: 443

  15. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992


    I use them in conjunction with everblades. They work pretty well. Dosn't stop all the snow from building under the blades but it helps and makes it a lot easier to clean off.
     
  16. Dissociative

    Dissociative 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,066

    man, you use heated blades and these things?.. i won't spend 100 on blades but i might 43 on these...

    got any installed pics?...are they clear sticky or do i have a white rectangle on bottom of WS?
     
  17. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    It's clear but they're mounted so low it doesn't matter I have them mounted below the wipers so I don't even notice them
     
  18. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,552

    CGLC said "The only thing I can think of is that about a month ago I left some lights on over night and drained the battery out, but that should not effect it too bad or not at all."

    Aaa yes that can damage it. (and before people jump back with antidotes about how they have don it without a problem running a battery completely down CAN not necessarily damage it.)

    CGLC said "Everything works fine, but I notice that when I still put it under a load (hazards, back up lights 55 halogen, and defrost) the volt gage still dropped down more that I would like. I have not put the plow on yet"

    How far down is "I would Like"? If your loads add up to more than your alternator puts out at idle you will drain the battery(s) As most vehicles will. What is your voltage with all the loads on at 1000 RPM?

    I don't have a amp meeter that can read high enough but I know the plow pumps draw over 200 amps ( I hope somebody can give me a real reading)
     
  19. ahaycoman

    ahaycoman Member
    from Montana
    Messages: 78

    Originally Posted by basher
    http://www.polecatmirrors.com/northwind.html

    Can anybody tell me where to get these? I sent emails to their customer service and they come back (good old daemon...). I think I'd like to try them since they seem to be very well thought of by those that have used them.
     
  20. MrBigStuff

    MrBigStuff Senior Member
    from Boston
    Messages: 140

    You could parallel 10 batteries together and it would still dip. There will always be some drop in buss voltage when a load is applied but you can minimize it by making sure you have large enough conductors to supply current to the load(s).

    You have added more capacity to your system but all that energy must still try to flow through the same positive cable. You added an additional ground wire and that was good. But it does very little if you don't also beef up the positive cable. If you double up your positive wire or go to a larger gauge wire, you may experience less drop.

    It's best to keep all the grounds tied to approximately the same spot on the frame/engine. This limits ground loops. Also, if you follow the return path you have now, the current going through the thermostat bolt must cross the engine to frame ground strap. Beefing up these cables will also help.