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Drivers side Frt Brakes smoking

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Stan MI, May 2, 2005.

  1. Stan MI

    Stan MI Member
    Messages: 86

    88, 3/4. Any idea on how much $ to replace calipers.

    Dealer thinks that's the problem, hasn't looked yet. Just wanted to know how much to expect, and I know much cheaper if I do it myself. My thought was if I screwed up it doesn't stop. Didn't want to take a chance.

    Thanks for any help.
  2. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    Dealer is gonna bone ya for ANY parts......................

    Re-man calipers are $30 bucks or cheaper at any big box
    parts store for a GM truck.........................geo
  3. Stan MI

    Stan MI Member
    Messages: 86

    Thanks sonjabb

    Look's like among other things I'm going to become a brake repair person. Dealer wanted $900 to fix. I love this truck........ but not that much.

    Any ideas on how much of a job this is to do yourself ?
  4. Chevy05

    Chevy05 Member
    Messages: 78

    I work on brakes almost everyday. at boces...and a brake job (new calipper and brake system bleeding, all for under $50.00 if im right...hope this helps...RYan
  5. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425


    Depends.............The dealer and most other shops always want
    to go "top shelf". New EVERYTHING !!!!!!!!!!!

    WHY??????????........(say it wrench guys).......LIABILITY !!!!

    Brakes are a safety issue and not for a "novice" to mess with !
    You mess it up...It could cost your life or somebody elses.............

    For a experienced "shadetree mechanic".......

    A new set of pads $25....Turn or replace the rotors $25 to turn,
    $150? each to replace.

    Inspect caliper operation and esp. for corrosion on a plow rig !!!!!
    (prob. why YOURS locked up!)
    Replace if necessary........

    Re-pack front bearings and inspect brake hoses.................

    Reassemble.......Bleed and add fluid if necessary...........
    Road test...........................
  6. derekbroerse

    derekbroerse 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Front brakes are so easy, ANYONE with any mechanical ability can do it. I started at about age 12 or so. Obviously I had someone with experience check it over (bolts tight etc) afterwards. Do you know anyone that can guide you through the job?

    Yes you likely have calipers that are siezing up and holding the brakes on. Hopefully this hasn't been happening for long... then your pads and rotors would be reuseable. If your pads are have lots of material left, sure they can be reused, though I would scuff them up with coarse sandpaper first, but the pads are the cheap part. Don't worry about turning the rotor unless it has a warp in it (major pulsing brake pedal). If it aint broke don't fix it.

    Soak the attaching hardware (the allen or torx bolts on the caliper have their thread right below the head, keep the oil off anything but the caliper and bolts) with penetrating oil ahead of time if possible. Liberally soak the bolt that holds the hose to the caliper. The rebuilt caliper will likely come with a replacement bolt and the two copper washers BUT DON'T assume it does, try to remove the old stuff properly. Don't let the calipers hang by the hose... and inspect the hose for major cracking etc. This is the time to change them too if they are bad.

    Calipers are only two bolts each to mount, plus one for the hose mount. Just make sure if you do try it that you take mental note of everything as it comes apart, and do one side at a time so you have an undisturbed example to look at if you need it.

    Speaking of which, brakes are always supposed to be replaced in pairs (both fronts, both rears etc). HOWEVER, if you are on a tight budget you can replace only the caliper you need and nothing else, I have done it many times (on my own vehicles). Most older vehicles tend to pull one way or the other to begin with... and at most that is what would happen. Remember, disk brakes are 'self adjusting' hydraulically....

    I can't recommend that, naturally, from a professional standpoint, just mentioning it..

    oh BTW the bleeding of the lines is quite easy too, but we won't get into a how-to unless you need it..

    Good luck if you decide to try it...
  7. calhoun

    calhoun Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Everyone is giving good advice. Depends on how much damage is done by driving with the caliper hanging. Could be just replace caliper could be replace pads rotor also. If there is lots of corrosion than you may damage brake lines also. One thing not mentioned, that I have heard of happening, is the inside of the brake hose collapsing and acting like a check valve not letting the pressure release. Dealer,of course would just assume everything is bad and replace all. Don't forget bleeding when all is done. This could involve the breakage of a corroded bleeder valve on the other caliper. (If you only replaced one side)
  8. Stan MI

    Stan MI Member
    Messages: 86

    Same truck new brake problem...

    I am going to do this myself just have to find the time. Fronts sound like something I can handle.

    Now the rears.

    had a load in the back yesterday. (2400lbs, 2 pallets weighed at yard) When I got home with the load, the rear drivers side was so hot it smelled like it was burning and felt just as hot. Fronts were warm but not hot to the touch. Question, do you think this was a brake problem or related to the weight.

    Thanks for the help and I will be posting question.
  9. joe_padavano

    joe_padavano Member
    Messages: 68

    One more thing. The interior lining of the rubber brake hoses can fail and create a one-way valve that allows fluid into the caliper but won't let it back out, causing the caliper to hang up. This has happend to several people I know. Whenever I rebuild or replace calipers, I always put on new rubber hoses at the same time as cheap insurance, since I don't want to bleed the brakes twice.