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Down speed of blade, quill adjustment

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by rb8484, Jan 22, 2015.

  1. rb8484

    rb8484 Senior Member
    Messages: 419

    Hey guys, I have an ultra mount and need to slow the drop speed. I cannot get the quill to turn, its not all rusted, thought it would turn pretty easy, but this one is froze right up. have any of you found a good way to unseized it?
  2. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    There is no "easy" solution for a seized quill screw. Each is unique in it's resolution. On the old style three plug units the screw sticks out a bit so sometimes you can put a vice grip on it and work it loose but on the newer MVP+ ultras the screw is hard to get at and doesn't stick out at all. Either way, if it's badly seized you will have to use heat and some sort of extractor. It's a tough extraction because the quill is pretty hard steel but the housing is soft aluminum. The hard part is getting a hole drilled in the center of the quill screw to insert an extractor. Once it is drilled in about a half inch you can put a bit of heat to it. This will break the bond between the steel and aluminum after which you can use and extractor to thread it out and replace it. If and when you get it out put a bit of anti seize on the threads before putting the new one in.
  3. jmal6809

    jmal6809 Junior Member
    Messages: 8


    I cannot get my quill screw to turn in so I can slow down my drop speed. any suggestions how to break it loose. I tried w d did nothing. Is there a way to loosen it up so I can turn it in. MM2 fisher
  4. bmc1025

    bmc1025 Member
    Messages: 33

    I would leave it alone, one of my plows have a stuck quill but it is too slow. I would much rather have your problem than mine.

    The plows will likely slow down one it gets cold outside.
  5. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,326

    If you try and drill it out you may end up buying a manifold for it. As I remember correctly there is a thread and an O ring boss you do not want to mess up. I have extracted a few broken motor bolts, broken solenoid/valve cover bolts and siezed quill and cross over relief adjustment screws as well. I never use a drill to extract anything. First the manifold needs to be stripped down completely. I mean everything. Use the western/fisher library for a schematic. Anyway, if the bolts are broken, even below the surface I build up weld with my TIG welder and then weld a nut to it. It does take me a few tries and I go through a few nuts but it is still worth not buying a new manifold. Neversieze is your friend when putting it back together.
  6. jmal6809

    jmal6809 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    I'm new to this site so I'm not sure this is the way to post. I have a m m 2 when I move the blade to the left it moves nice and smooth. When I move it to the right when it stops it bangs hard any thing I can do to stop it from stopping so hard
  7. jmal6809

    jmal6809 Junior Member
    Messages: 8

    A little heat and the quill screw started to turn THANX