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Dirt vs Paved

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself to the Community' started by owl, Sep 11, 2007.

  1. owl

    owl Junior Member
    Messages: 7

    I have a blizzard 720LT and it does a good job on paved driveways but the past 2 seasons I have picked up more dirt drives and I have to crawl to not trip the plow. Have adjusted the springs all the way and lower the shows but it is still a problem. A guy came in with a small blade fisher LD on a toyota and sipped around. Will fisher LD be better for my set of customers 60% dirt-40% paved?
    OWL
     
  2. mcwlandscaping

    mcwlandscaping 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,557

    What kind of truck?

    A trip edge design would probably work better for that
     
  3. DaySpring Services

    DaySpring Services PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,065

    Any plow will trip on unpaved surfaces. It's uneven ground, pot holes, ect. My Boss V trips on my accounts with gravel. A very easy solution is to drop the blade to the ground then tap the control a couple times. Get the blade a 1/2 inch of so off the ground. Once the ground finally gets a good freeze and layer of packed snow you can drop the blade all the way down.
     
  4. RipT

    RipT Senior Member
    Messages: 184

    OWL, I exclusively plow about a mile of dirt/gravel private road with a "regular weight" straight plow and went to a rubber edge after the first few years of tripping often and digging up rocks regularly no matter how I set the shoes or tried to keep the blade a bit up off the surface. The surface is just too uneaven for that technique to work. Was scraping lots of gravel up as well.

    The rubber edge (from Western) solved all the serious issues and greatly reduced the gravel scraping also.

    The down side is that a rubber edge will not scrape hardpack or ice. Other than that, they will work with fresh snow on paved surfaces. You may find it works well enough on the paved drives to just use it all around.

    Another approach is a pipe edge. This would be a length of 2 or 2 1/2" steel pipe slit along one side wide enough to slip over the existing steel cutting edge. You would then weld two or three tabs to line up with existing bolt holes so that you could secure the pipe over the cutting edge just for the dirt drives by adding/removing a couple bolts. Should be able stay with regular settings for trip springs and not even use shoes or keep them up.

    I know the pipe method works, but do not know who has rigged it up for quick on/off as you might need to serve both types of clients. Have heard of people using PVC pipe, but think it would be very short-lived. In my observation, the majority of plows out here are full-trip rather than edge-trip.

    Good Luck
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2007
  5. T-MAN

    T-MAN PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,363

    If the drive is fairly flat just set your shoes lower then your cutting edge. It works for most gravel drives if there not to bad.
     
  6. WSR

    WSR Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I agree with dayspring, set the blade on the ground and bump the controller to get the blade up a bit. Works most of the time on resonably smooth drives.
     
  7. hydro_37

    hydro_37 PlowSite Veteran
    from iowa
    Messages: 3,790

    Plowing speed on gravel is very important. Lower and raise the blade like several people have said and adjust speed so the plow isn't bouncing. Works great.
     
  8. owl

    owl Junior Member
    Messages: 7

    Thanks. I appreciate everyone's help.
    Owl:)
     
  9. owl

    owl Junior Member
    Messages: 7

    Thanks RipT, I'm having a pipe rigged up for easy on off. Look forward to trying it.
    Owl