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Cutting Edge for 7ft H.S

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by Steve'sZr2, Jan 3, 2010.

  1. Steve'sZr2

    Steve'sZr2 Member
    Messages: 86

    My plow is in need of a new cutting edge. I bought it used and well abused to say the least. The polymer edge on it is probably original to the plow. The edges are very warn down (my guess would because the 2nd previous owner had the chain wrong and it dragged on the ground when raised.) and the middle is uneven to the point where it doesn't scrap clean enough. I've looked on the internet at a few places linked from plowsite and called a few fisher dealers and to replace the poly edge for this old of a plow would be around 300 (all said in done whether it be at the dealer or shipped).
    So I started researching on here about steel edges that maybe a metal/welding shop could fab up and almost all the threads I found said to leave the polymer blade on then bolt the steel edge on top. I was thinking more towards a steel edge do to COST. Should be much cheaper.
    I do have an issue with leaving the polymer edge on and then adding a steel edge. Its simply to much weight that is not needed for my truck.
    Then I got to looking at my plow, (remembering that it is an older h.s blade and light duty) and noticed that the moldboard/trip edge design looks different then newer or larger blades. What I mean is, that the trip edge needs a cutting edge to operate correctly and give the plow the correct attack angle.(aka- once the cutting edge is added, the moldboard and edge are flush, where as on other blades, the cutting edge is above.)

    Maybe some of you could take a look at my pictures I just took and give me some pointers as what to do and anything else you notice.

    (actually, I just noticed that I should put a tad bit more slack in the chain. Thats probably one of the reasons its not floating right when entering this one driveway that has a steep entrance, so by the time I cross the sidewalk into the driveway, the plow has not scrapped all of the snow....)

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    Last edited: Jan 3, 2010
  2. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 513

    looks like an inch or so left...they ware like iron. how much plowing you do ?
    i'd bet you'll get the season out of it....i had a s-10 blazer..best lil plow truck
    google poly cutting edges and see...:salute:
     
  3. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    heck the bolts are still there and you haven't lost any springs??? I think you have years left on that edge!! In all serious.. Then chain looks way to tight.. And not sure of the angle of the plow itself.. Looks like it is titled up so it should scrape very well... A new steel edge will make the plow trip all the time.. It is not designed for a steel edge..
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2010
  4. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 513

  5. Steve'sZr2

    Steve'sZr2 Member
    Messages: 86

    After finding out the prices for a new poly, I decided to risk it and see if I could make it through this winter. It scrapes ok, but I can tell that its not scraping even and clean enough. In other words, the middle leaves more snow behind then the the outside and the edges, well they are so worn down that it doesn't touch the ground there.
    I only plow a few driveways, its not like I have a route to do or anything. It just bothers me that its not cleaning as well as it could. I also help my boss out at work for fun (he has a 2500hd, 8hd fisher) to do the long parking lot, and the plow just does not clean evenly.
    While I was searching on plowsite, I read several times about the A-frame, and to me, it looks like it is level to the ground. Its definitely not a severe enough angle to see it. (that is just me though).

    If I got a new steel edge made, would it change the attack angle a bit or make the plow "chatter" more? Any major cons to running a steel blade?
    I was just thinking that a new edge that was even would clean up better. (and help back dragging a bit too)
     
  6. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 513

    nothing is cheap...
    your dealing with a 200 lb plow its not scrape the best but its ok
    if you have a nice flat hiway around i 'd drop the blade anf see if you can
    straighten the edge..:D
     
  7. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 513

    make a back drag but i wouldn't put steel on it...polly dont rip up lawn..
    can you turn it over and redrill it ?
     
  8. Steve'sZr2

    Steve'sZr2 Member
    Messages: 86

    How does changing to steel make the blade trip more? That is one thing I couldn't seem to find answered or figure out by myself.
    I might be able to flip it and redrill, but there isn't much to work with.
     
  9. wirenut

    wirenut Senior Member
    from nh
    Messages: 513

    because of the weight of the steel will cause the springs to compress quicker
    physics 101...:nod: plowing is all about physics
     
  10. Steve'sZr2

    Steve'sZr2 Member
    Messages: 86

    How much more would a steel edge weigh that it makes that big of a difference?
     
  11. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    +1 could not have said it better... And it just looked like it might be tipped up in the pic.. hard to tell .. And yes it is supposed to be level but tipping it up some will give a different angle of attack.,..
    +1 on the highway Idea,, Maybe help it out with a large weight on the plow.. You could use my exwife and have her sit on it:D