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Custom Controls

Discussion in 'Universal PlowControls' started by IronSide, Sep 29, 2010.

  1. IronSide

    IronSide Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    Anybody out there make their own custom plow controls? I'm pretty handy with the soldering gun and wiring and was thinking about whipping something up. Just curious if anyone has done the same. I have a Blizzard 810. It has the giant "video game" controller. Gonna try to build something a bit smaller. Looking for input.

    Donny
     
  2. TheEquineFencer

    TheEquineFencer Member
    Messages: 88

    I'm getting ready to build me a control for a Western. I've got the whole thing drawn out. The hardest part was figuring out what needs to be on/off and when. If you know what you need on for Left operation and what needs to be off for left operation, then the same for Right, up and down, it's not that hard. For my control, I'll need 2 DPDT toggle switches, one Diode, a box to mount it in and some wire. I just ordered the TS plugs for the plow.

    Floyd.
     
  3. Bens95cobra8594

    Bens95cobra8594 Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    I've thought about doing the same thing... I debated finding a controller I liked from other manufacturers and just making it work.
     
  4. TheEquineFencer

    TheEquineFencer Member
    Messages: 88

    If this works as planned, I'll have 2-3 times as much in the plugs as the controls. It's so easy it's kind of funny. It's not like OEM but should serve the same way. I've even thought about building an extra and seeing if it would sell. If I didn't have to buy the TS plugs, the plow I bought used has just the plow, it would be really cheap to build. I think the switches are about $5 each, I need two, I have some 6A diodes laying around and a "Hobby Box" from Radio Shack laying around but I may spring for somethign from TheSurplusCenter for a bit heavier box. I think they are about $8 plus shipping. Then some wire, butt connectors and heat shrink to hook to the repacement TS plugs. I may go ahead and add a set of freewheeling diodes for safety when the coil circuit opens to make the DPDT switches last longer from the arc.
     
  5. JohnnyU

    JohnnyU 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,040

    Fastjohnny and Jerre helped me with this one:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If you have a hobby box already try it, as they hold up just fine. 6A diodes are a little overkill but since you have those too by all means use them but 3A is more than enough.

    Instead of freewheeling, just add a single diode on the motor relay instead if you're concerned about back surge, although the switches will last nearly forever anyway without one if they're of decent quality.

    Have fun. :waving:
     
  7. TheEquineFencer

    TheEquineFencer Member
    Messages: 88

    Yeah I know what you mean. I was going to put diodes on all the solenoids, L/R, U/D and the motor solenoid. I was just plannig to use two DPDT toggles and a diode for the control for now. I thought about getting fancy and looking for a joystick and figuring out how to do the samething, but the two DPDT and diode were the cheapest and easiest for now. I ordered the TS plugs from Angelo's. I called him about a problem I was having with my Western with the cables, it would go L/R but not up, he nailed the problem and I was running again in minutes, the valve was stuck inside that shuttles. I went ahead and ordered the plugs from him then. I like the joystick idea but I liked the idea better of being able to use readily availible parts better, that's why I'm going with the toggles. TheSurplusCenter has an aluminium box that looks like some type of ECM may have been mounted in it for sale, looks heavy and durable and easy to machine holes into. I may get a couple of those to play with.
     
  8. Plowfixguys

    Plowfixguys Senior Member
    Messages: 222

    Don't forget a latching relay for the float position, otherwise your going to have to hold the switch down. I have built many controllers for many different types of plows. the biggest problem is the relay (you have to find room in the box) and if your just using micro switches the controller is analog instead of digital, this makes the plow a little jerky and it will slam to a stop.
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Use a Meyer 21919 raise/lower switch, no need for a latching relay then.
     
  10. Plowfixguys

    Plowfixguys Senior Member
    Messages: 222

    Its no longer a "joystick" type control then
     
  11. TheEquineFencer

    TheEquineFencer Member
    Messages: 88

    The Western I have now does not have a "float." When it's down it "locks" down and floats along the ground. Yes, it will leave it down and the chain that is attached above the ram allows it to move freely. When I stop it anywhere in the travel it locks in that position. I guess I'll just be hard headed and do it my way and see if it works. But from looking at the wiring diagram for a Western it looks like it works the same way. It just uses making a ground to a solenoid that is 12V hot all the time instead of supplying 12V to a coil with a ground. We'll see if it works.
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    He stated...
    You stated...
    Therefore I stated...
     
  13. Nasty-Z

    Nasty-Z Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    Hey , that Slik Stick looks firmilliar Thumbs Up

    Looks good John :salute:

    TOM
     
  14. TheEquineFencer

    TheEquineFencer Member
    Messages: 88

    Do you have a part number and source for that "slick stick" and a pinout? I'll post my wiring diagram for my control after I get it built and verified to help others.

    Thanks, Floyd.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2011
  15. Nasty-Z

    Nasty-Z Senior Member
    Messages: 370

    Sorry I missed this one earlier , It is a Meyer Slik Stick P/N 22092 , Genuine Meyer (Made by Eaton Controls) are the best , however there are aftermarket red chinese replacments also.

    Here is the pinout : http://www.centralparts.com/Common/Documents/PDFs/Meyer/1-630 R3 Kit Slick Stik.pdf

    About halfway down there is a view of the back of the stick , Red is Up command , Green is Right command, black w/no fuse is Down command , White is motor solenoid , black w/fuse is power in .

    HTH

    TOM
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2011