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Cleaned pump

Discussion in 'Meyer / Diamond Products Discussion' started by Banksy, Aug 26, 2006.

  1. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    I took my pump apart yesterday to clean it and there was all this white crusty goo stuff in the housings. Looks like what grows on battery terminals. What is all this?
     
  2. MO TOYS

    MO TOYS Senior Member
    Messages: 111

    not totally sure but could be from moisture i know that happens when water is introduced to oil
     
  3. LON

    LON Senior Member
    Messages: 749

    are you meaning between the PA block and the base as well as between the pump and the base? This is commonly aluminum oxidiation. Or if it is gel like then it is water/oil mix.
     
  4. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Quite possibly was the same thing. It's a galvanitic salt, created through the combination of electrical flow and moisture, salt really kicks it in to gear. steel and aluminum create the same salt when they touch, as a by-product of aluminum corrosion and the electrical charge. Meyer puts aluminum and steel in direct contact (no galvanetic isolator) lots of places in that pump. Outboard motors have a chunk of zinc bolted on them to act as a sacrificial anode for just that reason, steel hardware in aluminum castings, electric flow and salt water.

    A little caulk or loctite on the fasteners when you reassemble will help prevent this. It acts as a gavlanetic isolator. That why you have the Teflon washers on the long bolts holding the tank together, direct contact with a moist environment, aluminum to steel, electrical flow.
     
  5. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    That's interesting, thanks. It's all cleaned up now, so I will do this yearly. This is my first Meyer set up and to be honest I am not crazy about it. I'd almost like to replace the Meyer elec/hydo with Fisher hydraulics. Like a dummy I lost one of the o-rings while cleaning, so I am going to go get big o-ring set to have in the shop and hopefully I can use one of those or really replace all of them. I painted the elec motor today and it came out nice.
     
  6. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Make sure you have a good ground. Directly to the battery is better.

    Don't spend the money to replace part of the plow. If your gonn'a upgrade donn't do just your hydraulics, upgrade the whole plow. If you invested the cost of the upgrade and the value received selling your existing plow, you could buy a new "whatever" brand plow.

    That o-ring should be in any basic o-ring kit.
     
  7. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    The pump is directly hooked to both terminals, but the power wires should be replaced as they seem to be getting old. I saw a o-ring kit at Northern tool last time I was there. I am going there tomorow anyway so I'll grab it. I'm not going to change hydro systems, I used to always have Fishers with under the hood pumps and never had a problem. The pivot pins for the plow are not the proper pins I don't believe. Aren't the original pins two different diameters on each side? I just have two pieces of steel rod with cotter pins on my plow. If somebody has an extra set layng around I'll buy them.
     
  8. ibelee

    ibelee Senior Member
    Messages: 188

    Pivot Pins

    Hey Banksy,
    Of all the plows we have rebuilt so far, the pivot pin ahs always been the same size on both sides. The only difference I have seen so far is the addition of a grease fitting. I've got a few sets of the newer type in stock if you need them. Let me know.
     
  9. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    My buddy who I bought the truck from said that the original pins had different diameters on each side of the pin, but the pins that are in it now seem fine to me. :dizzy: Thanks for letting me know you have some. Oh ya, my pins don't have grease fittings.