1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Chevy rear disc brakes and salt corrosion

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Midwest, Nov 18, 2004.

  1. Hey Guys,

    Just wanted to let you know what I had found about 2 months ago when I was checking brakes on my truck. First off, its a 2001 dually 3500 Chevy, and I run a vbox spreader. In August, I was checking over things on my truck and got to the rear brakes. I had taken off the wheels and what I found was crazy, My rotors were totally wasted :angry: . Come to find out, I could peel off the shiny area on the rotors and rust had eaten its way under the surface. I was lucky to even get one turn out of them and next time it will need new rotors. Brakes didn't look all that good either. Anyway, hope this might help someone in the future. I'm planning on having a bottle of TSP(trisodium Phosphate) that I can spray on my equipment after each run. :cool:
     
  2. The Boss

    The Boss 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,099

    After each snowfall, I take my truck to the carwash and wash everything from the plow to tailgate and then run it through the automatic to wash the undercarriage. This has helped dramatically. :nod:
    And I could care less about the temp. :D
     
  3. I usually do that as well, at least wash it. However, taking through the auto is an incredible idea, and surprised i've never thought of that :cry: Thanks for the tip BOSS :nod:
     
  4. The Boss

    The Boss 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,099

    I can't fit mine in most automatics but my buddy owns a carwash so he just turns on the undercarriage wash and lets me drive through as slow as I want. :nod: :drinkup:
     
  5. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    You know what helps even more (if you can stand the odor) it a mixure of gear oil (it attack rust better than regular oil) and kerosene to thin it a bit and spray it on with a paint spray gun (save old oil for this when you change axle lubes and such) and I do it in spring and just before plowing starts too. It helps big time.
     
  6. Frozen001

    Frozen001 Senior Member
    from Rome NY
    Messages: 908

    Wait till you "dust covers" rust out... Had to replace them on my 00' sierra... real fun had to pull the axles... all for a $20 x 2 POS piece of sheet metal....

    Dealer said "You live in Upstate NY, the salt just eats through them"
     
  7. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    Yes you live in the "rust belt", The real "crime" is that for 10 more bucks or so on a 30 grand truck they could put stainless steel sheilds on it from factory.
     
  8. Frozen001

    Frozen001 Senior Member
    from Rome NY
    Messages: 908

    Tarkus,

    I totally agree... Sometimes I think truck manufactures forget that it is a truck. I would have been happy with something just a little heavier, The older truck had heavy gage backer plates... Sometimes I think truck manufactures are too concerned with weight... I mean it is a truck, and should be built like a truck. If I wanted a car I would have bought a car.
     
  9. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    This is very true but you must also rember that Detroit is pushing every one to car trucks to avoid emission, MPG and crash standards for cars and gov is letting them and the "work" P/U truck as we knew it 15 or 20 or more years ago is mostly gone and is really a endangered speices these days.
     
  10. uglytruk

    uglytruk Member
    Messages: 74

    I like the backing plates on my "83's front axle, 3/8" solid steel! Last week I bought a '77 chevy C82. It's a 25k lb bucket truck w/utility body. You wanna' talk about steel! I bought it off of ebay in San Francisco. The Title said 16080, scale said 24700! :realmad:
     
  11. Bad Luck

    Bad Luck Senior Member
    Messages: 741

    Just an FYI I think for 2005 GM went back to drums in the rear.
     
  12. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113


    It does not need to be thick, just stainless steel thats all.
     
  13. rcpd34

    rcpd34 Senior Member
    from MD
    Messages: 670

    Rust is a problem on most late model rotors!

    GM is aware of it, but as usual, fails to address it. My '02 Avalance 2500 got a pulsation in the brakes. I brought it in under warranty and they had to turn ALL FOUR ROTORS! This was at about 12K miles! I had a fit. If the rotors needed to be turned this soon, this means when the brakes wear out I may only get one more "turn" out of them and then they must be replaced on MY DIME. Chevy didn't care. Then my '04 2500HD did the same thing. It got so bad the entire truck shook dramatically when braking. The truck has 2300 miles on it!! Again, the dealer turned ALL FOUR ROTORS on MY DIME. Finally, my '01 2500HD did it at about 12,500 miles. This was not covered as it's out of the 3/36 warranty and my extended GMPP warranty won't cover it. Chevy wanted $150 to turn, just the front rotors and then go from there. I told 'em to forget it and went to my own mechanic elsewhere who had to turn all four to get the pulsation out. The Chevy mechanic told me they're seeing this all the time ever since they went to the huge heavy duty rotors on '01. Anyone else having this problem?? BTW, I pressure wash all trucks top to bottom after every event.
     
  14. TLS

    TLS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    Only on the 1/2 tons.
     
  15. rcpd34

    rcpd34 Senior Member
    from MD
    Messages: 670

    Why in the world..

    Would they go back to drums??
     
  16. Frozen001

    Frozen001 Senior Member
    from Rome NY
    Messages: 908

    I think it is because th 1/2 ton were known for eating through rear breaks...(I replaced my 1500 rears 4 times... got about 20k for each set of pads) Although this does seem odd...I would look into this further before saying they are drums...
     
  17. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    Rear disc brakes on a P/U was one of those things that looked good on paper or in commercails but it has not panned out as planned because of the harsh environment the rear brakes can work in. More proof that they just do not build them like they used too when it comes to work trucks.
     
  18. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    Any of you guys remember the late 80s early 90s Beretta/Corsica cars and their rear disc brake problems up here in snow and ice land?
    GM had a heck of a time with them and went back to rear drums in them.
    They also retrofitted they early ones with drums.

    My cousin has a 89 and had many problems when new. GM finally retrofitted
    his with drums under warranty.

    Ya figure GM would of known better.................... :rolleyes: ............geo
     
  19. Tarkus

    Tarkus PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,113

    Kinda like some of this new 4x4 SUVs they make with big tires and no clearance in wheel wells for snow build up either.
     
  20. Boondox

    Boondox Senior Member
    Messages: 146

    Rear disks worked fine for folks living in cities and driving on pavement, but for countryfolk like me living on dirt roads the grit getting kicked up into the rear brakes was causing a lot of premature wear problems. I have 33k miles on my '02 Silverado, and have replaced pads twice already. For some reason the right rear wears the fastest, so every other 3k oil change I swap the rear pads from right to left to even things out. Sure is a pain in winter at minus 30, though! :(

    Pete in northern Brrrmont