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Charging VBox Spreader battery from Truck Battery / Alt

Discussion in 'Ice Management' started by rcnease, Sep 24, 2015.

  1. rcnease

    rcnease Member
    Messages: 31

    Hello,

    I am wondering if anyone has experience with the wiring requirements to use the truck alternator / battery to charge their v-box spreader battery. I would assume it takes a nice long positive battery cable to go from the truck battery to the v-box battery, but I was told it would take another ground other than where the ground for that battery is now. Is that true? Right now my grounds from the battery go to the engine tray on the spreader and ground to the stainless steel tray. Do I need to do more? Also does this put any extra strain on the alternator? Do I have to worry about an excessive draw doing this?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. terrapro

    terrapro PlowSite Veteran
    from MI
    Messages: 3,878

    What kind of spreader and what kind of truck?
     
  3. derekslawncare

    derekslawncare PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,003

    First and foremost, an alternator is designed for keeping a CHARGED BATTERY CHARGED, NOT to charge a dead battery. If that is what you are wanting to do, then be prepared to replace your alternator often. Second, the proper way to run your cables would be with a + to + and a - to - cable. You can use one of those big connectors like tow trucks have in their bumper for their jumper cables, that way when you load your spreader onto the truck, you make that connection and then the alternator will keep your spreader battery fully charged for you. Then make whatever connections needed from the spreader to that battery for the spreader to operate.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2015
  4. LiquidLife

    LiquidLife Junior Member
    Messages: 26

    It would need to be common grounded, and the battery cable would have to be large enough to handle the charge current of the alternator. If you don't want to run heavy guage cable to the back, get a trickle charger, like the ones used on the brake systems on a skid trailer. That will regulate the current draw/spike as the salter battery charge is maintained. I'll echo what Derek said - these charging systems are to "maintain" the charge, not to charge from dead battery.
     
  5. LapeerLandscape

    LapeerLandscape PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,613

    He's not trying to charge a dead battery but just keep a good battery charged after starting his spreader. Most gas spreaders have a small battery like a motor cycle battery or a lawn mower battery and a one cylinder B/S engine. If you run a 8 or 10 gauge wire from the + side of the truck battery to the + side of the spreader battery. You will need a good ground from the - side of the spreader battery to the truck.
     
  6. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,977

    i had done the exact thing you asked years ago on our gas v-boxs after the batteries kept going dead.
    first suggestion would be to upgrade to the biggest "auto" battery that will fit.
    next run wire from your trucks battery all the way back to the salter. with something like this.

    http://www.wiringproducts.com/10-gauge-duplex-brake-cable-25ft-bundle.html

    then use a water proof connector like this.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Trac-T1...1d42f3c&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=171097931943

    you can add a fuse or circuit breaker if you are running directly off the trucks battery.
    we never had any issues after i did this upgrade.
     
  7. LapeerLandscape

    LapeerLandscape PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,613

    That connector on ebay must be for you. It says its for trolling motor.:waving::drinkup:
     
  8. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,977

    There cheaper then trying to piece together ones from online supplies.
     
  9. leigh

    leigh PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,997

    Maybe I missed something,but doesn't the sander charge battery? Never had a problem with my fisher gas v box.Start and stop all day long,battery always had plenty of juice.
     
  10. Mike NY

    Mike NY Senior Member
    from zone 5
    Messages: 103

    You don't need a battery at the salter if you run heavy gauge wires from the truck battery with a good disconnect and fuse.
    My charging on my salter stopped working because of the salt getting in the motor.
     
  11. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,202

    This is the best solution, especially if you have 2 batteries in you truck.
     
  12. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    To be honest I would find out why the engine on the salter it's charging first. All small engines when running will charge the battery. If our just looking to MAINTAIN the charge use your trailer plug one blade will have constant battery and one ground. Hook them up to the direct to the sander battery fuse Also. You need to make sure the charge wire from the sander engine is disconneted from the battery.
     
  13. rcnease

    rcnease Member
    Messages: 31

    Thanks for all the wonderful information. Just curious MikeNY. What size fuse did you use and where in the actual line did you put it. I am assuming up under the hood to keep it out of the elements as much as possible but just wanted to clarify.
     
  14. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    To be honest I would find out why the engine on the salter it's charging first. All small engines when running will charge the battery. If our just looking to MAINTAIN the charge use your trailer plug one blade will have constant battery and one ground. Hook them up to the direct to the sander battery fuse Also. You need to make sure the charge wire from the sander engine is disconneted from the battery.
     
  15. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    One other note if you do run heavy gauge wires to the front and leave the sander battery in place. It will need matched batteries or an ISO mudule to separate out the batteries so they will charge equally and not fight the altinator to charge them
     
  16. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,977

    For the Salter application they don't need to be the same size battery. It's not like your stating a V8.
     
  17. 1olddogtwo

    1olddogtwo PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,535

    Just have the side walk crew pull the cord.

    Just run a deep cycle battery and a fused 10 gauge from the isolator.

    Another company we used to work for had 23 HP motors mounted inside the vans. It worked perfectly since at least 1993 when I started with them.
     
  18. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    There is some truth to that but they will not discharge at the same rate due to different size batteries. What happens is the altinator will come on and off cycles but never really charge or over charge basically the ISO mudule balances the charging rates in both even know the are different capacities of amp hours and cranking amps. There is s reason I know this info I learned a expensive lesson
     
  19. dieselss

    dieselss PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,977

    With what your saying then, just put an 800cca batt back there and be done.
    I did what said on 2 different trucks and they never had any issues.

    I.understand what your saying, just seems overkill for a salter
     
  20. fireside

    fireside Senior Member
    Messages: 661

    The problem is all the new trucks are very voltage sensitive. You can throw a truck computer haywire with very little loss or over charge!!!
    A 800cc is a waste of money. Remember they start on a lawn mower battery. It's all about amp hours more amp hours the longer before it needs to be charged. I put the cheapest car battery I can buy in mine. Than just charge it every so often.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2015