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charging system

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by Detroitdan, Dec 18, 2005.

  1. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    I notice that my Blizzard 810 uses a whole lot of juice, after an hour of hard plowing my battery light comes on when I use the controller. I have to start gradually turning things off like the heat, radio, extra lights, and keep the wipers on a low intermittent. My brand new rebuilt alternator is obviously not able to keep up. I have dual batteries, both big ones. One is about 4 years old now and the other is only a year old. I have had them tested recently, both batteries are supposedly good, replaced a couple terminals that were weak, and the alternator is working. Should the 810 take so much power? Last storm I plowed my route, came home and plowed my own drive then shut the truck down without trying to recharge it. Today it was too weak to start after sitting for two days, not plugged in, but it wasn't even cold. I'm probably going to replace both batteries and maybe go with a better alternator, but I can't afford it right now with the holidays coming. Is there anything I can do to keep the plow from killing the electrical system, or do you think I have a problem with either the plow or the truck? This truck has a big beefy electrical system, I would have thought it could handle it better.
     
  2. Joe D

    Joe D Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    Check all your connections. Load test the batts and see what your alt is putting out for amps at idle. The output at idle is very important to keep the batts charged up.
    It would also be nice to see what your plow is drawing for amps when it's running.
     
  3. rcpd34

    rcpd34 Senior Member
    from MD
    Messages: 670

    What size alternator do you have? Snow plow preps have bigger ones. I have no problems whatsover with my Blizzard.
     
  4. Mark Witcher

    Mark Witcher Senior Member
    Messages: 604

    You must have a bad alt.. I can plow all day with my 810 with my 90 amp alt. and a single battery. Never have any problems.
    I dont think the Blizzard plows use anymore power than any other brand. They all use a starter type motor for the pumps.
     
  5. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    well, I did have a bad battery connection a few weeks back, that's why I changed the alternator, I thought it was bad. $130 bucks wasted. My friend found the bad terminal when I had it in his shop for wheel bearings, he fixed it and both batteries load tested okay. I recall the paperwork that came with the rebuilt alternator saying it starts charging at 1100 rpms. So sitting and idling will do nothing. I think it is around a 110 amp stock replacement. I've tried hi-output alternators in the past on my old trucks, never had too much luck with them because the higher the max output, the lower the output is at idle. But plowing I certainly get up over 1100 rpms most of the time anyway. I guess I'll have to have the alternator checked again.
     
  6. rcpd34

    rcpd34 Senior Member
    from MD
    Messages: 670

    Who told you that lie? We do installs on emergency vehicles all of the time and they have the highest output alternators available from the factory. Their biggest concern is output at idle. Any alternator will usually provide ample power revved up; but the idle output is where it counts.
     
  7. GetMore

    GetMore Senior Member
    Messages: 179

    FYI, the rpm rating should be alternator speed, not crank speed. On gassers the alternator is overdriven at about a 3:1 ratio, it may be the same on the 6.5TD. If it's not you might want to look into some kind of overdrive pulley setup, since you are never going to spin the engine to 5500 rpm.
    As for the higher peak output/lower idle output issue, typically this is true if the cases stay the same size. If you get a larger case alternator you can get more output across the board. (rcpd34-does this match your experience, or have I got something wrong?)
     
  8. james1115

    james1115 Member
    from CT
    Messages: 81

    I have the exact same problem with my 8-10! I plowed with it the first time about a week ago and my battery light came on about 5-6 times.and my battery juice guage went all the way down to 8 volts then slowly came back up. This only happens when I go to raise the plow after a nice push.
     
  9. rcpd34

    rcpd34 Senior Member
    from MD
    Messages: 670

    Interesting concept on the pulley. I'd be curious to see if it works long term as it may overspeed the alternator at higher engine RPM. As far as the cases go, I have no idea. I'm no mechanic, I just look at the little numbers stamped on the case! :rolleyes: We've had a lot of experience with power issues and resolving them on police cars. If I can be of any help, let me know.
     
  10. Detroitdan

    Detroitdan PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,937

    I remember reading about the high amp/ low putput at idle when I bought a Powermaster 145 amp alternator to try to help out one of my plowtrucks. In another plowtruck I had the same trouble, I installed dual batteries, isolated with a 105 amp alternator, still pulled the batteries way down at idle and plowing speeds. Brightened right up as soon as rpms came up. I could never understand why our Crown Vic cruisers could run 56 million lights and radios and sirens and computers and whatnot and never dim a bit, even while on a traffic detail idling for 8 hours. If you looked at the battery cable it looks like speaker wire. Somebody please tell me how to get a high amp alternator to charge at idle. I would consider changing to a smaller pulley to speed it up, but I don't know where to get one.
     
  11. Joe D

    Joe D Senior Member
    Messages: 605

    On the 6.5 you need to have the proper pulley size on the alt because the tach gets it's signal from there.
     
  12. Joe D

    Joe D Senior Member
    Messages: 605

  13. MBB

    MBB Senior Member
    Messages: 129

    amp draw

    Sirs, I recently ran into some difficulties similar to your mentioned symptons. The primary cause was the connection at the pump motor. The positive lead had a crimped on terminal which allowed road spray ect to penitrate the copper cable causing corrosion, additionaly the motor terminal was also corroded. these factors created a much higher than normal current draw when operating the unit.( the current draw was high enough to sart melting the cable covering) The solution was to replace the crimped connector with a closed end soldered on(rosen core solder not acid core) ring terminal after cutting back the cabe to non-corroded material.( remember to use dielectric grease at the connection to prevent a similar occurance in the future) I also replaced the pump motor (ouch$$) due to the corroded positive terminal. This cut the draw by 50% and plow movement speed increased. I will have the old motor repaired if possible and save as back up. Note the motor from Blizzard is of Chinese mfg. In my experience these have not been the best choice. I would have researched a domesticaly built motor for replacement but was under the gun. Your positive cable to the pump should be a minimum of 6 gage. Hope this helps.
     
  14. SnowGuy73

    SnowGuy73 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 24,868

    I have noticed on my truck that it seems to use alot less power then the Western did, but this is just me. :nod: