1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

"Change Oil"

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by PremierLand, Aug 4, 2005.

  1. PremierLand

    PremierLand PlowSite.com Addict
    from detroit
    Messages: 1,572

    How accurate is the "Change Oil" light. I use amsoil. The change oil light came on the other day, however the oil is still really clean, its been about 4000-5000 miles sense the last change. anyway, what is the computer basing it off of, miles, or some element in the oil?

    Thanks. My bro said I should just change it every 10k, sense it is amsoil, however, im a firm beliver in changing it every 3k, so I figure 5k should be good.

    Thanks fellas!

    BTW: I added two more plow accounts today!
     
  2. PSDF350

    PSDF350 Senior Member
    Messages: 577

    thats pretty cool. never even knew they had that now. but i would suspect it is based on miles. might want to check owners manual.
     
  3. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    Which of their oils are you using, also? You can easily go the ten thousand by just changing the filter and topping off with a fresh quart too if you want. They have a 7500 mile oil, is why I ask. You can go 25,000 or used to could on some of their oils, by sticking to the regular filter changes.
    I too think that the light is based on miles but don't know that for a fact.
     
  4. PremierLand

    PremierLand PlowSite.com Addict
    from detroit
    Messages: 1,572

    on the back of the bottle it says I can go 25k miles. But no way in heck would I ever ever do that. But ya im using the 25k synthetic 5w-30, along with a amsoil oilfilter and k&n airfilter. I figure every 5k ill change it, however my bro says 10k. IMO it doesnt hurt to change the oil to often.
     
  5. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    Being it's your brother you're probably getting a good deal on it so do what you are comfy with. I deal it, so I can afford to change it early too. No harm in that except to the pocket book. The key to running it longer is keeping dirt out of the motor by keeping that K&N Clean and oiled.
     
  6. PremierLand

    PremierLand PlowSite.com Addict
    from detroit
    Messages: 1,572

    no im not getting a good deal on it, im paying retail. my bro is just mechanically inclined, along with the rest of the guys in my family, execpt me. lol.
     
  7. William B.

    William B. Senior Member
    from S.E. IA
    Messages: 978

  8. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    One thing you could do is drain it carefully to avoid contamination and reuse it in some other less cared for equipment, say a beater vehicle or equipment that require that weight oil. The oil is certainly still in good shape at that mileage as long as the motor is sound and all. I understand the desire to change it out that soon too.
     
  9. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    ditch the K&N IMO and put a ac delco or maybe a wix or napa gold or baldwin back in there.

    No sense running syn oil if your not going to go exended drain intervalls. Use regular dino oil from a good source like mobil or valvoline and change it when the lil change oil says too. If you really want to use syn then go for it but thats higher dollar
     
  10. Up North

    Up North Senior Member
    Messages: 921

    I agree. I switched to Amsoil and yes they say you can go 25K before the next change but I go 12-15K and change. I could go longer but prefer to change it out sooner then later and still get the advantage of longer drain periods. The "change oil" light comes on every 4500 miles after it's reset, which is a good reminder if you're using dino oil.

    Buck
     
  11. flykelley

    flykelley 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,124

    I thought once you use a syn oil you couldn't switch back to regular oil. Is this a old wives tale?

    Mike
     
  12. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    I think its BS....I also think its BS that if you use syn in an "old" motor that it will be to thin or slippery and leak out everywere. JMO
     
  13. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    You can switch back and forth without problems. Leaks are going to be due to worn seals or gaskets anyway, not the fault of the oil. It may leak more readily through weak sealing points because its molecular structure is different, but it won't cause leaks to develop when gaskets and seals are in good shape.

    (see if I can do something with the keyboard to give an idea. forgive me I'm no rocket surgeon :D )

    dino------ %~/-\_/< forms in rougher chains

    syn's are design to be more uniform, smoother :)@:+) less parts hanging out to snag each other. this is how it becomes more slippery.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2005
  14. Playboy

    Playboy Senior Member
    Messages: 335

    Rat Lover why don't you like KnN filters? I had one in my explorer and didn't notice any difference. What i did like about them is they are reusable. i was thinking of getting one for my 2500HD along with new plumbing to the air box.
     
  15. Bad Luck

    Bad Luck Senior Member
    Messages: 741

    I just switched to Mobil 1 on Saturday. I've got 20k on the truck.

    IMO - I wouldn't extend the interval too far past 7-8k. It's a work truck and the motor works hard, varying throttle, loads, idling. On my old VW I let it go to 10k because I drove all highway miles.


    PS - BUCK!! Was up brotha? :waving:
     
  16. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    There are people who go way beyond the 25,000 without problems. I had a customer that put on 100,000 on a 6 cyl. gas pickup with out "changing" the oil. He used a bypass filter(like a luberfiner), Amsoils air filter and oil filters. Adding the oil needed with filter changes is enough to replenish the additive package in the oil and the bypass filters take out everything harmful. The oils are really designed to go long distance as long as intake air is kept clean. He did oil sampling too and there was never any wear showing beyond normal limits(less than, actually). He was a top notch diesel mechanic. There are semis that have gone half a million miles with this approach.
     
  17. ratlover

    ratlover PlowSite.com Addict
    from IL
    Messages: 1,325

    K&N dosnt stop as much dirt as a good old quality paper. Also there isnt much gain to be had with a drop in filter. I saw less than 5 hp on the dyno by yanking the filter outa the stock box. Cant remember what it was exactly but it was enough were it could be within the dyno's acuracy range. Also didnt see enough HP on the dyno IMO to warant a stage 2 intake setup with cone filter to justify its cost/lack of dirt stopping unless its an all out perf deal. Didnt see any difference at the track either in ET's swapping intake for stock and know of someone that tried running with no filter in the stock box and saw no gain. It makes my turbo wistle very noticable though :D