1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Can you Plow and still go mudding?

Discussion in 'Jeeps' started by raging56, Jan 13, 2009.

  1. raging56

    raging56 Junior Member
    Messages: 1

    I always had an SUV. I got a car because of gas prices and I hate it (getting stuck in my own driveway is embarrassing). So, I'm picking up a Jeep. I plan to use it for mudding, plowing, work around the house.

    My question is....if I put a plow on the Jeep (remember I'm brand new to this stuff) can I still take it off road? My concern is the plow equipment attached to the frame hitting the ground and ether getting myself stuck or damaging the mounts etc. Maybe I'm 100% wrong and everything is removable (I hope) I really have no idea. I've looked at a million pictures and I can't tell if guys have a plow at home while they are mudding or just no plow at all.

    For what its worth:
    I'm getting a 1990 YJ Wrangler 4 cyl. its got about a 3" lift and 31"swamper tires.
    the plow I have my eye on is a Meyers plow I think 7.5 feet with the pump that goes under the hood. I hope this info helps.

    So, can it be done? Plow in the winter and decent mudding the rest of the year? Please help ASAP, I"m looking to get the Jeep tomorrow.
     
  2. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    Shure, Just unbolt the truck side mount in the spring.
    Mudding SUCKS :(

    Rock crawling :D
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2009
  3. zztarg

    zztarg Member
    Messages: 68

    Yeah, it would be a pain twice a year, but the mount should unbolt.

    FYI, I don't know if I happened to get a dog, but I had a 1990 Wrangler I bought new. It was by far the *LEAST* reliable vehicle I ever owned. I loved it when it worked, but I was plagued by engine and front drive problems.

    At that point it was half Chrysler and half Jeep, so getting parts was a bit of an adventure as well.

    I'd buy another Jeep, but not a '90.
     
  4. wavejd

    wavejd Junior Member
    from boston
    Messages: 7

    It sounds like from your note that you are getting the Jeep and plow separately. One thing you should be aware of is that buying a Meyer (or any plow) separately does not necessarily mean you will get the truck frame that fits your Jeep YJ with your purchase (unless it came off another YJ). Although the electrical, hydraulic, a-frame, and blade parts may work with your new Jeep, you should not expect that the truck frame (also known as the mounting carton in Meyers-speak) will fit on your Jeep YJ. You can buy a truck frame for a Jeep YJ used for usually less than $500 but you should consider that added expense when making a purchase.

    I also agree with one of the other posters that removing / replacing the truck frame seasonally will be a real pain in the neck. On CJs, it is 6 bolts to mess with and given where they are located (underside of vehicle - subject to rust), you can expect a hassle (been there, done that....)

    You do have the option of leaving the truck frame on but it will affect your ground clearance (it will likely be the lowest point underside your Jeep by an inch or two).

    Just want you to be informed before your purchase...

    Jim
     
  5. tjthorson

    tjthorson Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 126

    I do this every year. Not sure what plow you are going to go with - but, the SnoWay older 3 point mount on a Jeep TJ style (97-06) - is very easy to remove. I can have the mount off in less then 10 minutes for our summer wheeling trips. Its the two lower bumper bolts, and 4 bolts on the frame.... Whats nice about the frame bolts - is they arent even bolts - they are studs with a "T" on the end. You put it through a slot in the frame and spin it.... then put the plow frame on, put the nut and washer and tighten it all up....

    The only other thing I had to do this year was i had to remove my steering box skid plate (2 bolts) as it was in the way of the plow frame... ;)

    Winter work....
    [​IMG]

    Mild Wheeling with the family in Northern Wisconsin
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2009
  6. MnDLawn

    MnDLawn Senior Member
    Messages: 213

    1990 was one of the worst years for YJ's. It was carburated and some still had the stupid Peugeot BA-10 tranny, (what a piece of junk that thing is). '91 on they used the AX-15, and it was fuel injected.
     
  7. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    No you can't do both


    [​IMG]

    NO wait

    YOU CAN:D

    [​IMG]


    :D
     
  8. ABES

    ABES PlowSite.com Addict
    from MN
    Messages: 1,322

    The 2.5 4 banger was fuel injected in 1990. I believe the 6 cyl was still carb.
     
  9. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    yeah, stick with a 91 or newer with the fuel injected 4.0L unless you like to work on stuff. The 4.0L is very reliable and are known to go well past 200k miles with regular maintenance, I have an 88 Comanche with the 4.0L in it with close to 250k miles on the original motor and trans. The older wranglers used the 4.2L carbed I6 and they sucked so bad to keep running right and they were pretty underpowered. BTW I had an 89 with the fuel injected 2.5L and that was a great little motor, very rugged little motor.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2009
  10. unit28

    unit28 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,530

    what's with all the talk about an 4.2 I6 being a good choice for mechanics?
    look on the driveway..not to many stains. Maybe this one is just weird?:alien:

    But, <LOL> I installed new front seals, realigned the rear driveshaft and pinion angle. And the frame is rusted....rusty but trusty! I have even got this thing to start and idle below freezing on start up with the 2 barrel carb. Now I just need to fix the trans line from leaking. It's got 33" swampers a D35 rear and D30 front and gets crappy gas milage but it has not let me down. The tranny shifts smooth and the engine runs like a top.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. tuna

    tuna Senior Member
    Messages: 488

    My 89 has an ax 15,it is running a Motorcraft 2100 carb and a GM HEI.It runs much better than the old carter carb.

    Jeep rally 005.jpg
     
  12. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    So unit28 and tuna, abes and cocco78

    where is the plow?
     
  13. unit28

    unit28 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,530

    plow? we don't need no stinking plows.
    :jester:
    I just drive up the driveway and spin the tires......really fast
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2009
  14. snowplowpro

    snowplowpro Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 901

    wrangler with plow for sale

    I have a 1990 jeep wrangler with a 6.5ft western plow everything is brand new on this thing plow pump is brand new , plow was freshly painted , jeep runs great needs nothing it has new tires on it and everything call 973 616 0355
     
  15. tuna

    tuna Senior Member
    Messages: 488

    I sold the plow to Boston YJ,he lives right down the street from me.When I bought my F 250 I got rid of the Jeep plow,I used to take off the winch and put on the plow frame and undercarriage on in the Winter.Plans for the Jeep this year include Swaping out the Dana 35 rear for a Ford 8.8 .I`m running 31`s on 2.5 inch lift now I plan to go 4 inch with 33`s.
     
  16. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    You going to change your dif gears :nod:
     
  17. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    Well I have a plow Jeep and a Wheeling Jeep, IMHO its the best way to do it!
     
  18. unit28

    unit28 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,530


    As for myself I have 3.73...I would opt for an 8.8 too but I found a friend with an old scout so I may see what it has. Maybe I can swap?

    I just moved to MN from TX {see pic above} so as far as a plow goes...whas that?
    It would take years for me to figure out on my own what to get for it.
    I do run 235/75/15 tires in the winter and it drops the height down a bunch.
    I found a snow-way dealer near me and he said 5 grand for it <Trucks-N Toys in Cambridge>...I think I'll just keep spinning the tires until I figure it out.

    Is there any other route? My main concern is a mount that would fit. Any info would be cool.

    And yes I will take it off road in the green season. The state of MN is going to open some new weeeling trails this year...yeah!
     
  19. theplowmeister

    theplowmeister 2000 Club Member
    from MA
    Messages: 2,548

    You may find 3.73 gears a Little tall I found 4.56 gears excellent with 33" tires.
     
  20. tuna

    tuna Senior Member
    Messages: 488

    I`m gonna Get a 4.10 8.8 I already have a 4.10 Dana 35 sitting in my garage.