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Calling all Welding Guys!

Discussion in 'Equipment, Tools & Vehicle Pictures' started by creativedesigns, Jan 23, 2009.

  1. creativedesigns

    creativedesigns PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,929

    So I have been thinkin' bout gettin a multiprocess welding system. Miller electric seems to be a good brand...or is it? Snap-on tools have good welders too, but if ya can't choose between MIG or Arc...why not get both!!! lol Heres what I think I want : The "Pipe Pro" industrial system. What doea everyone else here have?

    The advantage to ARC welders is that you don't need to sand any paint off metals when you need to weld somethin. :waving:

    PipeProCart.jpg
     
  2. NorthernSvc's

    NorthernSvc's Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    wow. i don't know who teached you how to weld, butthat statement about not having to remove paint or clean the metal before welding just because your using a arc welder is complete horse manure.
    the pipe pro is a mass production machine, unless you are welding hundreds of feet per day... probably not a wise investment.
    snapon vs miller? thats like comparing a lexus car to a ford pickup!!!! snap makes good hand tools, miller makes welders, never should these two be confused. ( i know snapon makes a welder im saying stay away from it)
    how much are you looking to spend and how often will this machine be used? for that dough you could be a mulitprocess machine and get a stick,mig and tig all in one!
    Hobart is miller just diffeerent color and cheaper price.
     
  3. NorthernSvc's

    NorthernSvc's Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    im sorry i retract my last statement, - if you want a GOOD quality weld and not a booger, you will clean the metal as much as possible before welding. it IS theoretically possible to weld "dirty" metal with a flux core , arc... but you won't have as strong of a weld as you would if you cleaned and prepped it properly.
     
  4. HC plower

    HC plower Member
    Messages: 49

    We have 2 miller welders and highly recommend them. Miller and lincoln are good, I wouldn't stray far from them. We have a 251 mig welder, the last generation 252, and a last generation dynasty or syncrowave 350 I think. The 251 is easy to work with and change the wire. There are few settings to adjust. The 350 today has an integrated cooling system, before it was an add on to the cart which added to the size. You can get a 252 for around 3gs complete and look at a dynasty 200 for around 5g's before discount. The pipe pro you showed has two different stations for two seperate mig guns and wire feeders. The pipe pro is sold as a power supply only, you buy what wire feeder you need, which adds 1600+ unlike the 252 and dynasty 200, which are availiable with complete packages ready to run. If you bought a 252 and a 200, you would save around 1g on just the price of the power unit of the pipe pro alone plus almost another 2gs on the wire feeder. For reference, a part that took 2 hours to weld with tig took about a half an hour with mig. Also, If you are unfamiliar with your local welding supply shop, bringing a buddy along that has dealt with them before and knows what you need is priceless.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2009
  5. JD Dave

    JD Dave PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,046

    Cre you need that welder pictured like you need a hole in your head. What are you using for a welder now?
     
  6. augerandblade

    augerandblade PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,054

    I use a miller welder,and yah I know what you mean about a dirty weld. never had no probs working with scrap to build what turned out to be a nice shiny box plow
     
  7. Lynden-Jeff

    Lynden-Jeff PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,433

    Ask Daner, im sure he will know.
     
  8. creativedesigns

    creativedesigns PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,929

    LOL Dave, I like buyin the best tools & equipment! I recently had a break in our brand new Erskine inverted blower, crack welds & bent support bars. We had it for 6 days & this is what happened??!??

    I hired a mobile welder to fix the damage...he replaced the twisted suport braces & added some extra tube steel for strengh, and fixed the weld. This cost me $525 for 2 hrs that he charged us :eek: The Miller Pipe Pro system costs over $10 grand!

    DSCN2872.jpg

    DSCN2873.jpg

    DSCN2875.jpg
     
  9. augerandblade

    augerandblade PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,054

    I could be wrong. but is that rust on the tube steel probably was cracked before you got it. I see the welders up in Ottawa wanna get paid well
     
  10. NorthernSvc's

    NorthernSvc's Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    525.00 every now and then vs 10,000.00 for a welder that you may use once or twice a year?..... go get a miller 212 thats all you need for doin mild steel, 252 has to many featurs that for fixing plows you don't need. or if you want a good light weight stick welder maxstar 150s. cheaper for you to buy 2 seperate welders than a multiprocess machine. save you lotsa doe
     
  11. bossplowguy

    bossplowguy Senior Member
    Messages: 214


    I totally agree. I work at a welding supply store and do a fair amount of welding on the side. Get a millermatic 252 I know we sell them for around $2,200. DON"T buy a snap-on welder, they make great tools but if you are going to buy a welder go blue. If you decide later you want a arc welder just buy a miller thunderbolt, they are about 600 bucks.
     
  12. JD Dave

    JD Dave PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,046

    That sucks and you got ripped. We do alot of stuff ourselves but whe it comes to certain things we get a pro welder in, just like your customers hire a pro snow plower. I'd love to have a welder like that but the Lincoln 250 I have running on 3 phase power will weld almost anything and it was 2k and what that won't weld my 1k mig will. BTW put a couple gussets on each side of that break and it won't happen again.

    On edit, I just like buying crap equipment.
     
  13. JD Dave

    JD Dave PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,046

    Cre you should see the crap we've fixed this week in the shop, your little break was a joke compared tp the crap we had happen and I'm not looking at a 10k welder. JMO
     
  14. Neige

    Neige Sponsor
    Messages: 2,198

    Hey Cre hope the Kubota and Pro Tech are holding up better. Its always good to buy good quality, but what you have in mind is way over kill.:drinkup:
     
  15. creativedesigns

    creativedesigns PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,929

    Thanks for the advice everyone! :) Yeah like Neige said, its a bit overboard lol I'll get somethin less expensive & it will be a Miller of course ;) It makes more sense to do ur own welding work than to hire out at that price when things break!

    JD : I can just imagine all the breaks that happen when ya got lots of tractors, pushers & trailers!
    Glad you got evrythin fixed too :drinkup:
     
  16. Mike S

    Mike S PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    Two of my friends bought Snap On welders and man did they get ripped off! They got to make payments for a while and they spent twice the cost Linc 255 and got a welder the size of a 210 or 215! The Snap On my one friend owns looks like a Century brand welder.
     
  17. jayman3

    jayman3 Senior Member
    Messages: 372


    Cre if you say you like buyin th ebest equipment then you should have bought a Case backhoe and not a Kubota.LOL:nod:
     
  18. mikeyfff1011

    mikeyfff1011 Member
    Messages: 72

    miller or lincoln electric are good
     
  19. jgoetter1

    jgoetter1 Senior Member
    Messages: 278

    Good tips. Thanks for the info. I'm also looking to purchase a welder.
     
  20. Upper5percent

    Upper5percent Member
    from USofA
    Messages: 61

    Its more than theoretical...it happens all the time in the real world...:D

    It is almost always painted or extremely dirty with rust and grease, which make it unweldable without first cleaning the areas to be welded. Here is a cleaning trick used by welders when they have greasy, dirty, rusty, damp steel to weld. Before making the first actual weld pass, take a rod of E6010 or E6011 on reverse polarity (the normal polarity for these rods, anyway) and make an initial pass over the weld zone with a very long arc length. Watch where the hot spot on the work piece is, and move it just fast enough so as to not quite melt the steel surface. It may be necessary to run the arc over the weld zone a few times before all the grease, dirt, paint and/or rust is burned and blown off by the arc gases. The metal from the rod will cover the area with thick spatter, but it will pretty much brush off with a wire brush, along with all the other stuff you don't want in your weld. Lead is a source of weakened welds, and paint is a big source of lead. Lead was banned in house paint only, it is still used for industrial coatings. By the way, after heating or welding something and you have a sickeningly sweet taste in your mouth, nose, and throat, there is lead present, so take precautions not to breath the fumes.

    However if it's unpainted...Arc welding is great for welding in the outdoors or on dirty and rusted metal. Arc welding is more forgiving if the conditions of the outdoors were to be windy, raining, or snowing. Or if the condition of the metal may be dirty or rusted. As the electricity arc melts the metal electrode, the flux on the steel rod turns into a gas and surrounds the arc from contaminants entering even including oxygen.

    But like you said...;)Although to ensure a good weld one must clean and dry metal to be worked on and have a proper welding environment to work in for best results.

    It is also easier and safer to establish an arc on a clean surface than a dirty or rusty one.