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Buying used 6038 for a Ford.

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by Team Pigeon, Feb 2, 2009.

  1. Team Pigeon

    Team Pigeon Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    New to the plow website, pretty excited to not be paying the neighbor to plow my driveway anymore.

    Like the title says, I'm buying a Unimount 6038.

    It is currently mounted on an old chevy 1 ton.
    It's going to be mounted on my 1992 f-150 straight 6. I the truck locked up on 35's, ready to rip and tear. This will be my first snow plow. Will be working snow on my acreage and taking over my neighbor's clients.



    Got a few questions. Got a few pictures...

    Price- It'll be under $800. Good or bad?

    Mounting. I'll be fabricating my own mounts. I happily cut and weld metal at my leisure. Anyone got any tips and tricks or a material list available or pictures of custom fab work?
    I've got a standard type winch bumper that is staying on SO I'm thinking I'll have to make the mounts a bit longer to clear the pump section.

    Operation- what's this big harness thing.
    Do I need a ford f150 specific harness?
    Can I just tap into the battery and use it without lights? Will it work that way?

    Hydraulic pump- rebuild kits available? seals and stuff?

    IS there a mode that'll force the plow down no matter what??

    Looking at the side profile pic, does the far end look bent? Or is my eye a little crooked?

    Thanks in advance, any tips and tricks greatly appereciated.

    ~Pigeon

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  2. Team Pigeon

    Team Pigeon Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    No comments- not even bad ones, I thought this was a big time snowplow website. Tough crowd I guess.
     
  3. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,202

    Price is good.

    No way to apply down pressure.

    Need to make sure the mount is low enough so the A frame is horizontal to the ground.

    Why do you think you need a heydraulic pump kit. They should be available.

    Big Harness. Are you taking about wiring harness. It runs the lights, signals and pump. The pump should work but you light will have to be modified.

    Tuff to tell from the pic if anything is bent.
     
  4. Team Pigeon

    Team Pigeon Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    So do I really need a truck specific harness if I don't care about running the lights?

    Wouldn't I just plug it into the battery and run the controller? Or are there solenoids that'll only run the plow if the truck is running (or that sorta thing).

    Thanks for the tips,
    Steph
     
  5. cet

    cet PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,202

    The way I understand it is, if you don't hook up any of the light wiring then obviously they won't work. The wiring for the plow is standard on all of them. With the plow lifted I don't think your lights will be visable. You can buy just a truck side wiring harness for your truck. If you aren't out on the road then you might be OK.
     
  6. snowplowpro

    snowplowpro Senior Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 901

    i think the price is pretty good i mean you can find them all over the are 2000grand and more
     
  7. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    First of all, what your buying is a 7-6 Pro Unimount. The 6038 is actually 60381 which indiactes the blade part #.

    Second, the truck is on 35's? If so, get rid of them, they wont help you in the snow when you have to push.

    Third, yes you need a harness. You can use the battery cables, motor solenoid and main vehicle harness from the donor truck. You will need a vehicle specific cross harness to make the headlights work (depends on what type headlights are on the truck)

    Start here for pics of mounts and more info for the blade,
    http://www.westernplows.com/publibrary.asp?cat=4
     
  8. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    that look like a ford mount crash?
     
  9. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Nope, dinosaur GM
     
  10. Team Pigeon

    Team Pigeon Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    The truck is on 35" studded mudders with 4.56's, 3/4 ton suspension. It's been all sorts of places as it is my bush truck... I'm thinking it'll do just fine.

    As for the height (the lift kit), I was going to lower the mounting point and try keep the blade angle as close as stock as I can design it.

    SO from what I'm reading, this wiring harness is only for splicing into the lights? The rest is straight forward. Sweet!
     
  11. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    No, you need the main harness to run the plow. It runs from the cab to the solenoid and to the plug on the plow to operate the vavles on the pump.
     
  12. Team Pigeon

    Team Pigeon Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    I'm sorry- I don't think I am explaining myself very clearly. I have all that wiring stuff that was on the chevy.

    IS the basic part of the wiring harness universal? Cab controller, solenoid box, plow plug-in---- is that stuff universal? Or is EACH harness vehicle specific?
     
  13. ogdenflooring

    ogdenflooring Member
    Messages: 92

    Light Harness is Vehicle specific, the rest is universal
     
  14. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Yes that stuff is universal, it's the harness that runs between the truck headlights that's specific.
     
  15. Team Pigeon

    Team Pigeon Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    A little update on the Stephneck scenario...

    Got the plow for $500 in running condition. We jumpered wires, clipped booster cables, spliced and etc... to get it going out in the farmer's field- and it ran. Yee Haww. Drained the oil (it surprisingly had the proper amount) and am gonna flush it some more after I get it all mounted and assembled.

    Started fabbing it to my truck the other night. Leveled the a-frame off like you guys said-
    Does the top of the blade extend past the cutting edge on these plows?

    Anyhow during my fitting and fabbing, I noticed something awry, I was just about to tack things into their spots and my eyes went funny. I know I got a chevy mount that is wayy different than the Ford mounting- not only in the bolt pattern and width but in the angles of the brackets. Good thing the mount didn't go in straight up and down.

    Anyhow, I went ahead and downloaded the Chevy mounting instructions to confirm my suspicion. Ford goes straight down and Chev rakes back. Hooked up the mount to the plow on the shop floor and everything made good sense.

    This couldn't be more perfect for me as I've already fitted a Chevy winch bumper to my frame (it's a bush truck remember) and all I need to do now is take up 9/16" gap on either side of the top front mounts. This also allows me to keep running my warn 8274 winch and bumper.
    Decided on a 12" height to the pin (instead of the 9.5" to 10.5") from having seen many other pictures of lifted Fords on the site.

    Should be just peachy. Pictures are on their way.

    ~TP
     
  16. Team Pigeon

    Team Pigeon Junior Member
    Messages: 14

    A little update on the Stephneck scenario...

    Got the plow for $500 in running condition. We jumpered wires, clipped booster cables, spliced and etc... to get it going out in the farmer's field- and it ran. Yee Haww. Drained the oil (it surprisingly had the proper amount) and am gonna flush it some more after I get it all mounted and assembled.

    Started fabbing it to my truck the other night. Leveled the a-frame off like you guys said-
    Does the top of the blade extend past the cutting edge on these plows?

    Anyhow during my fitting and fabbing, I noticed something awry, I was just about to tack things into their spots and my eyes went funny. I know I got a chevy mount that is wayy different than the Ford mounting- not only in the bolt pattern and width but in the angles of the brackets. Good thing the mount didn't go in straight up and down.

    Anyhow, I went ahead and downloaded the Chevy mounting instructions to confirm my suspicion. Ford goes straight down and Chev rakes back. Hooked up the mount to the plow on the shop floor and everything made good sense.

    This couldn't be more perfect for me as I've already fitted a Chevy winch bumper to my frame (it's a bush truck remember) and all I need to do now is take up 9/16" gap on either side of the top front mounts. This also allows me to keep running my warn 8274 winch and bumper.
    Decided on a 12" height to the pin (instead of the 9.5" to 10.5") from having seen many other pictures of lifted Fords on the site.

    Should be just peachy. Pictures are on their way.

    ~TP