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Buyers TGSUV-PROA

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by cplmac, Dec 11, 2010.

  1. cplmac

    cplmac Senior Member
    from Dundee
    Messages: 113

    I bought a Buyers/Salt Dawg TGSUV-PROA new before last season. It has been really a solid piece of equipment. Anyhow, last week I backed it into a steep driveway apron and next thing you know the auger is binding and it doesn't work anymore. So I basically knew what was wrong with it before I got started trying to fix it. Anyhow to the fixing it part. So I get to my shop and disassemble it partially (removed the hopper, the hoop and the salt splash shield). I knew I either bent the shaft of the motor, the shaft of the auger, or the mounting bracket that held the motor below the hopper. Turns out I bent the shafts somewhere near where they join, AND the the mounting bracket for the motor. So, I spun the auger by hand to see where the shaft was bent and how badly, with the hopper off you can see the top of the auger to tell where it's running out and running in. Marked the point where the bend appeared to be centered and at it's worst. Then bent the shaft by pulling on the top tongs of the auger with a giant C-clamp. That mostly fixed the binding problem, although it was still present to a slight degree. The last step was to use the clamp to bend the motor back in place which worked well. Took a few tries to get it back to where it belonged but the unit now works like new. Anyhow, for anyone who has had a binding issue with their buyers unit, I hope this helps you get the problem sorted. Altogether it took me about 3 hours to disassemble, diagnose, repair and reassemble the unit. I'm pretty sure this is a problem that is only relevant to the TGSUV-PROA, which is the unit that has an auger instead of a flow gate. With a flow gate there is no way for the auger to bind inside the bottom of the hopper.
     
  2. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    Yeah I had a similar problem after sliding into a fencepost. I bent the shaft on the motor and the auger was stuck against the throat tube. I couldn't get mine tore down all the way due to rusted hardware after 4 years of service. I was able to redrill and basically move the motor so that it wouldn't bind. It lasted another year like that before the motor finally died. I have since repainted , replaced the motor ,and add a pre wetting system to it. I love how cheap and easy it is to fix this style of spreader. Mine is heading into it's 6th season now and doesn't owe me anything. At the end of last season my controller stopped working. RIght now I just have a switch hooked to it but I am going to get a new one. On big areas it's fine but ,I waste alot of salt on the driveways that I do.

    , shaun
     
  3. cplmac

    cplmac Senior Member
    from Dundee
    Messages: 113

    If you just hooked up a switch to it, you could probably add a rheostat on the cheap that would give you the flexibility to adjust the spread/speed. Just wire it inline with the switch somewhere you can reach in the cab. Just make sure you get a rheostat that can handle the amperage the motor will draw. I sure hope I get 4+ seasons out of my unit. You are absolutely right though, this is a great design, simple and effective which makes it easy to work on and generally long lasting. Fewer parts equals fewer problems. I really like having the auger instead of a flow gate, which is why I went with the PROA instead of the normal SUV-PRO.
     
  4. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    regular rheostat won't work,due to the fact that the feed auger needs to have full 12v that a pulse controller will provide. A rheostat reduces all parameters, watts, volts, total amps drawn whereas a proper pulse controller starts and stops the full 12v current thus providing a constant speed as well as torque. It.s like tapping the power switch on and off in a controlled manner.
     
  5. cplmac

    cplmac Senior Member
    from Dundee
    Messages: 113

    Seems to me with my unit that there is a considerable loss of power on the lower settings, not like it's getting full voltage or amperage. I'm not sure what effect it would have on the life of the motor running it in brown out condition, I'm sure it would probably take some life off the motor. Still, it should work.
     
  6. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    I use the same unit on the back of a quad. tried using a rheostat. Was a waste of my time and cooked the motor in no time at all. if all your pushing is air then a rheostat would work but with the variable torque requirements of the auger working in a nonconsistant saltor deicermix at slow speed the unit will stall out and overheat if it hits a small clump. Most if not all salt/fertilizer spreaders use a pulse control unit. This can still stall if you hit a large enough clump at slow speed but not nearly as easy as a plain old rheostat. Think of a rheostat as being the equivalant of a 2 year old on a trike and a pulse as a teenager on a 21speed bike in lo gear neither go very fast but the kid on the 21speed bike can pull a lot more weight consistantly than the two year old can. A rheostat reduces the power output to almost 0 hp while a pulse maintains the hp but in bursts so it runs slower.
    Still run the old buyer on just a switch but added two adjustable wings on the sheild to control the spread and just drive faster. works like a charm.of course would like a variable speed but so far no luck in finding a weather proof unit.:mechanic:

    005.jpg
     
  7. cplmac

    cplmac Senior Member
    from Dundee
    Messages: 113

    You have a smaller motor on yours than I have on mine, but I'm going to defer to the guy who has actually tried what I'm suggesting. How does your quad handle the weight of that thing loaded? Did you have to install a trailer hitch?
     
  8. magnatrac

    magnatrac PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,055

    I know guys that have used the rheosat with success but you do need a heavy duty and they still burn out. They all said it got really hot too. I am going to get a new controller and wiring harness off of ebay I think. My insulation is beaking at the plugs and I can see corrosion in the wires. I I figure a $150 bucks or so is ok to spend since this thing has more than earned it's keep as far as making money. Right now the heavy duty switch works but after I load it I need to make sure the spinner will trun and is not bound up with the salt. If I just put it in with out checking it will somethimes blow my inline fuse. I never had to worry about that with the controller. I am also running my liquid pump off of the same leads. I just hooked it to the terminals on the motor and the pump is variable speed too ! Well that was when the controller worked !!!

    , shaun
     
  9. hitachiman 200

    hitachiman 200 Senior Member
    Messages: 262

    This is not the original motor but it is the same size the spinner is one I fabbed up in the shop slightly smaller diameter with larger fins, cooked the original one with the rheostat idea. the quad is one of two can am 800's and handles the load no problem, actually works good with the extra weight for plowing the heavy wet stuff we get here. I fabbed up a 2" receiver for the back and wired it to the aux plug and mounted a weather proof switch to the bars. The other 800 has an ebay (think its a vermont?) purchased fertilizer spreader($135.00) hopper is half the size but it has seperate auger and spinner motors and seperate speed controls. the buyers unit is about 6 seasons now and 2 for the vermont. Both are only used for sidewalk clearing and small (10spot or less) lots.