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Broken plow frame, how do I fix it? (also posted in the Fisher section)

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by Zack1978, Mar 18, 2007.

  1. Zack1978

    Zack1978 Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 82

    Hi everyone,
    I am the proud owner of a 1979 4x4 Toyota Short Bed pick up with a Fisher underhood hyd set up( the plow is circa 1982 I believe). While I was out plowing today, I caught the edge of the driveway VERY HARD; so hard in fact that I actually shot pieces of black top about 20 ft or so.Well low and behold I broke a weld on the plow frame. The weld that broke is a piece of metal that is attached near the front leaf spring. When you look at the plow head lights the pass side is now way lower as a direct result of the broken weld. What should I do? Should I just find a good welder to fix the problem, or are new parts available? Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Zack

    PS: I can't figure out how to post pics on this site, so they are posted on another site, so here is the link.

    http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=144083
     
  2. BSDeality

    BSDeality Senior Member
    Messages: 736

    finding parts will undoubtibly be hard to do. I would bring it to a welding shop and have them take care of it. I can't tell from the pictures, but is it torn off and dangling? or is it torn and bent?
     
  3. Zack1978

    Zack1978 Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 82

    It is torn and dangling.

    Zack
     
  4. BSDeality

    BSDeality Senior Member
    Messages: 736

    that's much easier to fix. no need for re-aligning with a press or BFH.

    Any welding shop worth their salt should be able to fix that up in no time flat.
     
  5. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Should be able to do it right on the truck. Grind it clean, put a floor jack under it to bring it up, hold with some clamps and turn up the heat.

    Make sure to check the whole frame out something farther back may have failed also.
     
  6. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    I looked at your pics and have to agree with one of the repliys there the weld looked a little rough to start with. As every one said any good weld shop can fix you right up. Do your self a favor buy a welder in the future. They can really save your a&&. I got a little 110 volt Century mini Mig. I'm no pro at that lie on your back weld over your head crap. But if it gets you through the stom, that's all that counts. You know all the pictures of cools shops on here. Thats not me! LOL Work with what ya got.
     
  7. Zack1978

    Zack1978 Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 82

    For X-MAs I got a brand new Miller 135 MIG, but I have no clue how to use it yet, so I will have to pay for this repair.

    Zack
     
  8. UglyTruck

    UglyTruck Senior Member
    Messages: 210

    I say just fix it.....

    and how, or mabey I should say why does an individual get a welder for christmas if they have no experience welding???

    & let me just make it known (for next Christmas)....I have no Idea how to fish, and do not know how to drive a $45,000 bass boat or a Polaris 800 4x4 Quad....:D
     
  9. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,343


    Good decision. By no means is that a job for a 110volt machine.
    T.J.
    www.tjsperformance.com
     
  10. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    Hey don't mock the mini mig, man! I have done some heavy duty stuff with it. It's just a little slow going. I have only had it thermaly shut down once.
     
  11. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    I could weld that with a mini mig. Grind it out. Make one deep slow pass and then two overlapping. I might try to get at it from the back as well.

    However, with a bigger welder it could be done with one pass with good penetration.
     
  12. TJS

    TJS PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,343

    I am not mocking anything. I am just telling it like it is, 110 machines are not for this kind of job period. A job like this should be left for a 220 machine. It is hard to tell from the pics but it looks like it has been welded before and broke at the weld.
    T.J.
    www.tjsperformance.com
     
  13. Zack1978

    Zack1978 Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 82

    Well I want to learn, so why buy garbage in the first place?

    Zack
     
  14. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    As I am new to posting you may not no it but I'm not pissed off or mad, just sarcastic. You are correct a 220 would work better. But as Flipper and I said it can be done. I have a 110, so thats what I use. I am a one man show and don't have the big cool shops I see on here( wish I did but o well). I can hardly get my 4 wheeler in my garage, let alone a plow truck.
    Zack, find a welding class. You wont regret it. And NO I would not use this as your first project. LOL. I took an adult ed class with some buddys, We had a blast. I was the only one in class that had a welder. I knew how to weld, I welded back in school but that was a long time ago. You will learn plenty! Hitting the bar after class was fun too, we even got teach out once or twice. haha
     
  15. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Zack1978:
    Home Depot has a book on welding you could buy.
    The welder's manual should have basic welding tips too. My Wife bought me a 110 welder one Christmas and I have repaired all kinds of stuff with it. They have their uses. Next thing you need is a flame wrench ( Torch )
    A stick 220 volt welder is what your plow frame needs. You may have to take off the frame so they can weld it. Ask at the welding shop what you can do to make the job cheaper. Normally they charge by the hour and materials used.
    If you take off the frame use new grade 8 bolts to reattach it. You can get them much cheaper at industrial fastener supply places.

    BSDeality:
    We have B. M.* F. H.'s in Ohio they work better for heavy persuasion work.

    * Mother
     
  16. Flipper

    Flipper PlowSite.com Addict
    from CT
    Messages: 1,180

    Given that it is a 1978 Toyota I would not try to take the plow frame off. The frame bolts to threaded nuts welded in the boxed frame which were where the tow hooks were located. Likely you will break the bolts off or break the weld nuts. Either way you screw yourself.

    Take the plow off, the upper mount and let them work at it. There should be plenty of access for them to weld it properly.
     
  17. REAPER

    REAPER 2000 Club Member
    from 60050
    Messages: 2,228

    I'd like to know how fast you were going that you had chinks of asphalt flying 20 feet?

    For sure have the shop check all welds.

    I have had this type of repair myself through the years but only once. If it broke again even in another spot I replaced the whole part.
     
  18. dichdoc

    dichdoc Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    I've been down the road of scab repairs on antique plows. I repaired my '79 snoway almost everytime I plowed, the welds just kept getting farther back. From your pics I feel like there significant rust and wear. If this plow is something you depend on I would recomend some new steel. You could probably limp by with a scab job or take it off and build new during the off season. I went for new (everything black in the second pic is my new fab) the piece of mind knowing that it will probably make it through a storm is priceless.

    old A frame.jpg

    new plow set up.jpg
     
  19. AbsoluteH&L

    AbsoluteH&L Senior Member
    Messages: 573

    Want a good part?build it your self!

    Want a good part? Build it your self! Been there, done that. Nice looking work.
     
  20. Zack1978

    Zack1978 Member
    from NJ
    Messages: 82

    You mean you custom made every part that is black in the pic? Or did you source new parts?


    Zack