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Broken Packing Nut

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by MA 2001 Blazer, Mar 8, 2003.

  1. MA 2001 Blazer

    MA 2001 Blazer Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    I have a Fisher 6 1/2 foot minute mount plow mounted to my 2001 S-10 blazer. Fisher only made this plow for a few years back in 1995 and 1996, so I swapped this plow from my old 95 blazer.

    Here is my problem.

    When I wanted to remove the plow, and needed to lower the lift cylinder, I would have to stand on the lift cylinder to make it go down all the way, so I had some slack in the chain to allow the pins to be pulled out on the minute mount. The plow will lower fine on it's own because of the weight of it, but I have to stand on the vee portion to get it to come down all the way. It has been doing this for the last few years and I have lived with it. I then read a post on this board that someone had the same problem, and his packing nut was to tight. I figured I would loosen the nut and solve the problem.

    Now the trouble begins. I could not loosen the packing nut for the lift cylinder. I was able to loosen the packing nuts for the side to side cylinders, but the lift cylinder nut would not move. I then put a big pipe on the wrench for more leverage, and I ended up breaking the top of the packing nut off! The threads for the nut are still in the cylinder, and they still won't budge. The lift cylinder is part of the whole housing that contains all of the hydrolic fluid, and the dealer want's 350.00 just for the part.

    Is this a common problem? Is there a way to get the threads of the nut out? Any suggustions?

    I have been reading this board for the last year, and have learned a lot from it.

    Thanks.

    John
     
  2. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    It's most likely siezed in there.The best way is to slowly drill out portions of the old packing nut until you can break it into pieces and get it out.Take you time and go easy,so you don't damage anything.
     
  3. sonjaab

    sonjaab PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,425

    What about using one of those EZ out extractors ?
    Then chase the threads out with a thread chaser tool ?
    Heck .... wait....I forget most of these pump cases are
    aluminum or that lousy white metal stuff . Bummer....
    I messed up one of my western
    cases a few years back....I was lucky my bud had a old
    case laying around.......good luck....................geo
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2003
  4. MA 2001 Blazer

    MA 2001 Blazer Junior Member
    Messages: 10

    The easy out would be a good idea, but it is a 2 inch nut, and I don't have a easy out that big.


    Does anyone know how to remove the lift up piston, so I don't ruin it when i try to remove the remaining threads?

    John
     
  5. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948

    John, Some of the older fisher units had Lift assemblys made of steel that threaded into the base and a packing nut on the top. If yours is this style unthread the steel tube and pull the ram out the bottom. If it is the all aluminum style try heating the outside of the case and turning it out with a chisel. I have had success if the ram is that tight in the packing by soaking it with PB blaster or Kroil overnight and then heating the aluminum housing all the way around and then turning the rod to let it help remove the nut.

    Jerre
     
  6. kawdude

    kawdude Senior Member
    Messages: 105

    Just for info sake......

    A fellow mechanic told me this one and to my amazement it worked. When you are using heat to free a rusted bolt or nut, dont spray penatrating oils in there, they turn to ash when the heat is applied and can not always but can make more resistance when trying to turn the nut/bolt. Instead of the penatrant heat the nut/bolt up then apply candle wax, the wax will run into the treads and stay slippery instead of turning to ash. The first solution that cam to my mind was heat and a chisel or punch. pin punch less likely to nick the lift ram. Just my .02

    Scott