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broken orange wire near ignition, goes up gear selector lever

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by woodchuckcanuck, Oct 22, 2009.

  1. I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD with 8.1L and Allison 5 speed automatic. Is this wire for the 'tow/haul' button at the end of the gear selector lever on the steering column? I only found it because the rubber boot around the gear lever was chewed up so I removed it.
    Could this be a diy project to fix? I'm skilled enough to take off the dash facing and disassemble the a/c switch to see why the fan doesn't work on 1 and 2 speed. So I figure this next project might be do-able. More importantly I guess is the question, Is it even worthwhile? I will be towing a 18ft tag low deck with tractor and implements which runs 10-11,000 lbs. I haven't hooked up and towed yet so I don't know how the truck will react. The steepest hill it will have to climb is the driveway, about 300 ft at a 30 deg slope.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2009
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes that would be for the T/H button on the end of the shifter stalk. It's a common issue but if you're handy it's totally DIY fixable. Just need steady hands and a little patience as the wires are very small. The other resort is to replace the shifter stalk as the wiring/switch isn't serviceable separately.
     
  3. Thanks. I was able to tug on the wire coming up the column and gained some length but they only overlap about a 1/4 inch, if that. Yes, those two white wires in the orange sleeve are small indeed. I didn't spend a whole lot looking at it yet but I was wondering where that wire is feeding from (down in the steering column).
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2009
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The T/H activation switch is just a ground trigger to the body control module, which is what then sends the signal to the transmission control module to activate the tow/haul. So basically one wire goes to a central ground, up through the T/H button and then out to the body control module, then to the trans control module.
     
  5. Ok Thanks. Sounds like a simple circuit, like a receptacle (T/H) on the end of a circuit controlled by a switch (BCM). I'll have to do some searching on the forum to find out where that BCM is.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2009
  6. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I'll save you the leg work. The BCM is located right under the steering column. Will have three multi pin connector plugs on it. Should be a blue, a grey, and a purple or white.
     
  7. Thanks again. Speaking of receptacles, I always wondered if it was possible to wire in a plug to run, lets say, a corded circ saw or drill. It would be ideal for tailgate carpentry.
     
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Wiring a 110V receptacle isn't the hard part. Finding an underhood location for the 110V generator is though. :D
     
  9. Probably is. I haven't a clue about what is required. I can wire simple circuits, that's about it. I figured all you'd have to do is tap into a strong alternator. 110v generator you say...

    Seriously though, is it do-able?
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Sure it's do-able, there's a few companies around who market engine driven underhood generators for late model trucks. You won't like the price however. Far more cost effective to simply throw a gas generator in the bed.
     
  11. calhoun

    calhoun Senior Member
    Messages: 165

    Get an inverter. I have a 2500 watt inverter with 110v receptical at the rear bed. I have it hooked into my aux battery so I don't run down the main battery. It will easily run a skill saw, miterbox, sander etc. it will not start a compressor.
    You have to wire inverters with big wire. I used 0 welding cable. They will draw over 200 amps at full use.