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Broken exahust manifold bolt

Discussion in 'Ram Trucks' started by LLM Ann Arbor, Nov 26, 2006.

  1. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    I have one...possibly two on the drivers side manifold and of course am getting the exhaust leak tick tick tick.

    One bolt is broken off in the head...exposed but broke off. The second is probably the same.

    Too big a job for me to repair with my limited tools.

    How long do you think it would take to back the header off, extract the two bolts (hopefully more dont snap when they try to remove them) tap if needed, install a new gasket and put the manifold back on.

    Its not hurting the truck motor but the noise bugs the hell out of me.
     
  2. jcesar

    jcesar Senior Member
    from Mi
    Messages: 492

    It depends. Got torches? If so, not too long. Heat them up, and they come right out.
    if not, I would suggest a shop. Maybe 3-4 hours with torches, and air tools. What truck/engine?
     
  3. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    Yeah see...I dont have torches or air tools. Or a tapset. Have taps and at my dads but this is just something I need to farm out.

    Its the 360 motor.

    I was figuring a good shop gould get it done in no more than 4 hours. Im going up to the local grease monkees today and seeing what they say.

    Probably at least a $250 dollar repair but I hate that noise.

    If i didnt have a big exhaust on the truck that is pretty loud it would bug me even more.
     
  4. RODHALL

    RODHALL Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    3 to 4 hours is fair. I had some that was 20 minuet jobs and some that are day or better. There a easy way to get them out if there is part of the stud bolt sticking out, weld a nut on to and heat it up back it out. Sometimes if they are broken off flat or in the head, then it is a pain and most times you end up pulling the head off so you can get in to work on it right.

    Did you ever think it could be a warped header?
     
  5. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    Well the bolts are snapped but after talking to the mechanic for a while he said it may be warped too, and that it can be a very big job. He's done it before and because there was warpage it didnt fix the prob so they had to redo it and machine the header.

    So....he tuned me up with a big tube of exhaust cement. I lathered it on with a paintbrush. let it set, fired it up and problem solved.

    4 Bucks!

    Im stoked.

    :yow!:
     
  6. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    My buddy was putting headers on his 360 Ram Charger and broke a stud. He drilled the head to tap it and all of a sudden coolant started to come out. If you need to drill, be very careful! He put in a huge glob of silicone gasket sealant and said it doesn't leak. Kind of a hack repair in my book, but it's not my truck :cool: .
     
  7. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,498

    :rolleyes: NOW!! that is some funny stuff!!!!!

    Were the two of you:drinkup: :drinkup:

    Why not just weld it on or grind it clean and J&B weld it......
    As you are determined not to do the job right..

    P.S. you miss spelled 2 words wrong.:waving:
    lamar, try the spell check button..
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2007
  8. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876


    In order to do the job "correctly" youd need to remove the header, check it for warp, machine it if needed because its probablywarped or replace it.

    Add a gasket to be sure and still not be convinced its going to seal.

    Its my understanding that stock manifolds dont even come with a exhaust gasket from the factory.

    Its a major job and could run 3-400 dollars, or 1000 dollars if everything doesnt go right.

    Sno....My truck has 150,000 miles on it and while running good and in good shape Im happy to glob on some 4 dollar cement to seal the exhaust leak as opposed to the alternative.

    JB Welding is exactly what I did but with a product designed for exhaust leaks and repair. Welding a rusty manifold especially when you cant determine the "exact" location of the leak would be futile and impossible.

    The noise is gone. Im happy, and I call that being fiscally responsible and efficient.

    You can call it whatever youd like.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2006
  9. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876


    See....If I had a coolant leak Id take the head off and replace it or if its aluminum...weld it, and tap a new hole.

    I might try to seal it like your bud did, but coolant leaks arent cool.

    All i had was a slight ticking noise but I hated it.
     
  10. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    Dude, nobody is attacking you for your method of repair, but on a forum like this you're going to get lot's of opinions and some you may or may not like. If you don't have the money for a proper repair than do what you gotta do. If I looked at a truck for sale with a repair like that, I'd walk or at most offer my lunch money for it. I know somebody who once used JB weld to seal a hole in an F350 oil pan. It held for years until the truck got sold, so I hope it works for you. At least you don't have that annoying ticking anymore. I hate those:mad: .
     
  11. ECS

    ECS Senior Member
    Messages: 485

    Ann get's funnier with each posts.

    And this advice is coming from someone who did this? :eek: You have got to be kidding me.:cool:

    No wonder he doesn’t charge for conversation. :dizzy:
     
  12. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    My buddy was installing brand new headers to replace the manifolds. OH ya, he couldn't get the starter back in with the header on and vice versa, so he took a hammer and beat the header into submission to make room and then bolted it all up. I hate hacked work!
     
  13. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    He's been a mechanic with his own shop for forty years ECS.

    How would you do it if you were to actually do it the correct way.
     
  14. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876


    Well so far ECS and Sno Farmer are. Perhaps you have them on ignore.

    And yes. I dont have 300 to 800 dollars for the repair especially since we are looking at a very mild snowless winter.

    You cant even see the repair and I dont ever intend on selling the truck.

    Im thankful for the easy repair and it works fine. Its no more Hack than plugging a tire as I see it.
     
  15. Banksy

    Banksy PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,113

    Well the correct way to fix this was already posted. The mechanic may be very good, but if you couldn't afford this job, than he did what he could do to put a band aid on it for you. I'm sure he would have taken the job payup

    They just pointed stuff out that seemed contradicting. I understand about the money issue. I don't have that kind of money for that kind of repair either, but then again I could do it myself. Do yourself a favor and get a good repair manual and some tools. In the long run it's cheaper to be able to work on your own stuff. Heck, I work in my back yard or gravel driveway with a shed full of tools and no room. Let's not turn this into a bashing or flame war ok. He fixed his truck the best way he could financially and the problem he had is gone. LLM I wish you good luck this year and don't forget to save some money for those UNEXPECTED plowing repairs.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2006
  16. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,498

    ................
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2006
  17. RODHALL

    RODHALL Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    LOL this is good tread to point people to when they want see what happens when people that know nothing about motors, works on them…

    A front and rear exhaust manifolds studs go into a water jacket. Meaning you remove them antifreeze leaks out.

    B they don’t use gaskets… gaskets are use to take up .01 of a difference in surface area. buy a $8 feeler gauge and $14 strait edge…

    I bet the leak is between the center two ports at the bottom… headers always warp between the 2 center ports, reason being 2 bolts to cover that area where front and back ports have 2 bolts per port. The ¼ inch plate that is used is not thick enough. Headers no matter how they are coated or what metal there made of will not, expand and contract at the same rate as the cast head this is why they use cast exhaust manifolds.
     
  18. ECS

    ECS Senior Member
    Messages: 485

    My truck is my livleyhood as well as my personal vehicle. My machanic would have had me leave it there and fix it, and I would have done that. The faster he gets it fixed, the faster I go back to work. I have had to make finacial arrangements in the past for work performed, and if needed, I would have done it again. I send the shop I go to a lot of business and I would have done what was needed to keep my truck at 100%. I know you are stressed because of the outlook for a bad winter, not enough work, or whatever the reasons. I would have perhaps did his snow removal for him, his lawn for him and given him as much as I could afford at the time and either worked it off or made arragements for monthly payments. I have had to sweep parking lots with a push broom to make ends meet before.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2006
  19. RODHALL

    RODHALL Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    If you “boys” are in business and don’t have $800 to shell out on fixing what needs fixed to do you your job….. you really should look for another line of work.
     
  20. LLM Ann Arbor

    LLM Ann Arbor Senior Member
    Messages: 876

    Well thats sortof my point Rob.

    This wasn't the type of problem I choose to throw that kind of money at. Its a 7 year old truck with 150,000 miles on it and I do make necessary upgrades and repairs but this was a simple exhaust leak that I remidied for four dollars and an hour of my time. Trust me. Ive rebuilt this entire truck almost except the motor trans and differentials which all get regular maintenance.

    If you have 800 dollars to fix something like that on an old rig like mine then you have TOO much available cash.

    I hope to find myself in that situation someday. But even if I did, I would have probably still taken this easy and financially responsible route.

    If you want to spend 5, 6, 7, 800 bucks or whatever fixing a small exhaust leak because the little tick tick tick underacceleration bothered you thats great.

    Not me. Not ever. And if the truck was mine new, and not 7 years old its a warranty repair anyhow. Wouldnt cost a dime to fix more than likely.