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Brake lines

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by diesel dave 04, Dec 18, 2009.

  1. diesel dave 04

    diesel dave 04 Senior Member
    Messages: 155

    The joy of replacing rusty brake lines I had to do both my trucks. the salt kills them. Why cant you buy replacement lines from ford?? Like the ones that are on the mastercylinder they dont have the standard size ends so there is no way to do it without reflairing. what a PITA
    Sorry for the rant.
     
  2. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    I'm sure there's a bunch of reasons. Ton of inventory for each different configuration. Difficult to ship. Designed to be installed before body, driveline, etc. are installed. I use the alloy easy-bend stuff from Napa/CarQuest. Much easier to work with, will not rust. Flaring is the easy part IMO.
     
  3. overtime

    overtime Senior Member
    Messages: 153

    I do brake lines all the time in the shop. They suck. Also i hate the smell of brake fluid. But chevy and dodge are best around here for the lines.
     
  4. Mick76

    Mick76 2000 Club Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 2,157

    I replaced mine with ni copper... shouldn't have to worry about another brake line......*knock on wood*
     
  5. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Doing brake lines on the 96 Tahoe as we speak. All new hard lines, front to rear.....
     
  6. grec-o-face

    grec-o-face Senior Member
    Messages: 485

    Just put a 6' length in my F350. Seems like rusted/rotted brake lines follow me from vehicle to vehicle.
     
  7. nate456789

    nate456789 Senior Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 194

    Me too - That and Fuel Lines. It's never ending.
     
  8. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    Rusted lines are just a fact of life on plow trucks. :mad:
     
  9. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    It's not just plow trucks up here. Everything. Nobody puts plain steel on anymore. Either Coated or alloy.
     
  10. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    That's true... New York definitely isn't any better. :(
     
  11. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Gotta get back to it. Lines are all run, but I think the master is gone. Pretty serious bubbles. Truck sat for two years with no brake fluid in it.
     
  12. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    i had to replace all the lines on my truck. Then when my friend who is never touching my truck again was tightening the fitting he broke the threads on the master cylinder. Also replaced the rear drums and shoes and front rotors and pads. So i got all new brakes and it stops waaaaaayyyyyyyyyy better now
     
  13. grec-o-face

    grec-o-face Senior Member
    Messages: 485

    My next investment will be a power-bleeder. Does anyone have any recommendations? Until now, I've had to rely on someone else to work the pedal.
     
  14. nate456789

    nate456789 Senior Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 194

    I use the one man bleeder. Works great. Doesn't let air back in the lines.
    It sucks fluid back in instead.
     
  15. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    I have one made by Motive. You can outfit it with adapters for all different master cylinders, depending on what you work on. It's one tool that's worth every penny. Check Ebay, I think I've seen them pretty reasonable on there.
     
  16. ahoron

    ahoron Senior Member
    from here
    Messages: 422

    I made a homemade one for my truck. Get an extra master cylinder cap and drill a hole. Install an air fitting into it. Just top off the fluid after every wheel.
     
  17. overtime

    overtime Senior Member
    Messages: 153

    Matco or snapon sell a bleeder or even bg for like 100 or so.
     
  18. lotec25

    lotec25 Member
    from Florida
    Messages: 47

    Same thing I do, Old coke bottle with some break fluid in it and some aquarium air hose. Push the peddle a few times get the air out, repeat on each wheel.
     
  19. Sealer People

    Sealer People Senior Member
    Messages: 207

    How do you guys get to know so much about trucks & stuff.

    I have the hardest time, I think it's mostly intimidation to even try.
    I see my mechanic change things on my truck & I think, Sh*t, I could have done that.
    Problem is is diagnosing the problems.

    I just got a vacum pump changed on my truck (1996, chevy 2500 diesel 4x4). it cost me $600.00.

    I have a little honda that I go give estimates with, good on fuel.
    It started making a really bad squeaking noise in the front everytime I hit a bump r turn the steering wheel, very loud annoying sqeaking noise. Like a door squeak.

    I had the ball joints replaced last year (600 $$ ) & they dont have grease fittings. So, I take it into the shop, & they tell me that I need The "CV shafts",,, another $650.00.

    The car is a 1994 & I dont think its worth it.
    Gotta get more mechanically inclined.
     
  20. carl b

    carl b PlowSite.com Addict
    from Ohio
    Messages: 1,330

    Stainless Steel I did mine. I'll never do them again .It was hard to learn how to flair . in the end well worth it. I did it 5 years ago they are still like the day I put them on.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220236/