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Boss V Blade RT3 Switch...nothing happens

Discussion in 'Boss Plows Discussion' started by sawtooth, Dec 8, 2012.

  1. sawtooth

    sawtooth Junior Member
    Messages: 16

    I have a Boss 8'2" V Blade with the RT3--13 Pin. When I toggle the tower switch up to hitch it up....nothing happens. I cleaned the 13-Pin connector. Is it common for this switch to go bad? How do I test to see if there is power going to the switch and how do I test the switch? I also see that some folks say that it could be a bad solenoid. What is the test procedure for the solenoid? Thanks
     
  2. AlaskaShooTer

    AlaskaShooTer Member
    Messages: 38

    Just trying to help, by no means a pro. My 9'2" V requires that the controller be in float mode. Assuming you already know that I would check the two power supplies for your plow, fuses and go from there. Mine took a dump last winter and it was one of the two power connections. The one on my F-550 off the fuse panel below the steering column that had fallen off. Plugged it back in, back in business.
     
  3. tuney443

    tuney443 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,847

    You need to check the Smart Hitch coil for magnetism.If all your connections are sound,grounds are good and clean,check there.
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Good try kind sir but if the SH switch isn't even triggering the underhood relay then it doesn't matter (yet) whether the SH valve is working. :)

    Assuming the SH switch has power (controller in float, ignition on, etc) and this isn't a new to you plow or install- make sure there isn't a pin missing in the plow side plug. When you lose one it's almost always the pin in the circuit going through the plug from the SH toggle back to the underhood relay. And if it's missing, obviously you'll have no pump function via the SH toggle.

    When it isn't that then either the SH toggle is faulty or it needs some cleaning on the electrical connections under the pump cover, ie the SH toggle terminals.


    Have you tried any functions on the controller yet to see if the pump will run?
     
  5. sawtooth

    sawtooth Junior Member
    Messages: 16

    I hadn't tried checking to see if the other buttons operated the pump but I will.

    I had replaced the plowside part of the connector last year and just did the truck side too. The other day the SH didn't engage at first but after I checked and cleaned connections it started working again. Yesterday before it stopped working that pin did get hung up a little. I had to straighten it a little to get it back together. It is hard to imagine it broke inside, but maybe it did. If I put a meter from the truckside pin 13 to ground should I see voltage?

    I had problems with the old connector parts too especially pin 13. And I have the connector mounted in a vulnerable spot, under the side of the bumper. It gets hit with dirt and built up snow can cause it to come apart. I would like to move it to a spot just next to the license bracket but I am pretty sure the wires and cables aren't long enough.

    Thanks for your assistance.
     
  6. tuney443

    tuney443 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,847

    Was just giving the abbreviated synopsis sensei.;)Your diagnosis as usual is far superior.:):mechanic:
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    See if the pump will run via the controller before anything else. If it will- then you know the UHS, pump motor and all related wiring is capable of doing so, thus it's all ok.

    If you wish to check for battery voltage on the white/black (pin 13 SH wire) you can do so while holding the SH switch up. Check at the UHS first (same wire) and if it isn't there, remove the pump cover and do the same test on the rear of the SH switch. If you find it's there at the switch but isn't making it to the UHS then you know you're losing it somewhere in between, like in the connector plug for example.

    Remember, be sure ignition is on and the controller is in float when performing checks on the SH system.
     
  8. sawtooth

    sawtooth Junior Member
    Messages: 16

    Hmmm...What is UHS.....under hood solenoid?

    The controller is operating the pump motor.

    The plastic cover over the motor and manifold was pinned with the tower down so I lifted it up and went ahead and attached the plow to the truck. I removed the cover and found that a ground had pulled off at least one of the coils. I reattached one to the "blue" coil.

    It seems there is a ground to each of the 7 components but there is still one female end on the series of grounds that is not connected to anything. There is an extra male on the "green" and "red/black" coils but there are already grounds connected to them.

    I went ahead and spliced wires in with separate m/f connectors to both sides of the white/black wire of the 13-pin.

    So maybe the switch is the problem or the float part of the controller?

    Regarding the switch on the tower....Could I jump the wires to operate the SH...or another way of asking is...how do I test the switch?

    Thanks, Michael
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    UHS is plowguy talk for underhood solenoid.


    Does the plow work now that you have it attached?

    A missing ground won't cause the SH to not run the pump but depending on which one it actually and what year this plow is will affect the valves from working once you actually get the SH switch running the pump again. Look around a little closer and you should see where it was connected. It was either on a lead at the same stud at the motor ground lug, or to a loose matching brown lead in the harness after it comes through the lift tower. If it's that one, it also won't affect SH operation as that ones just turn/marker light ground.

    Test the white/black at the SH switch and UHS as previously described and see what you have. Need to establish that first. Then if the SH switch is deemed the issue I'll explain how to jump it for verification purposes.
     
  10. sawtooth

    sawtooth Junior Member
    Messages: 16

    The plow goes up and down and the wings work but still no go on the tower switch. When I test the white/black wire on the back of the switch to ground switching up and down it reads 11 and 10 volts. The white/black on the UHS to ground switching up and down reads 0 and 0 volts
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    There's your problem. You're losing the white/black circuit somewhere between the SH switch and the UHS, and of course without that the pump won't run when the switch is toggled. So you need to go over that white/black closely paying special attention around the 13-pin plugs.
     
  12. sawtooth

    sawtooth Junior Member
    Messages: 16

    So if I run a wire from the back of the switch to the white/black on the solenoid...and toggle the switch...it should work? I jumped over the 13-pin white/black pin so it could be where I connected the plowside of the 13 pin connecter to the plows wiring harness. I will have to pull it apart to check.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Yes sir you can and yes it should as long as you don't have other issues.
     
  14. sawtooth

    sawtooth Junior Member
    Messages: 16

    Yes that does work. However, when I operate the plow now all of a sudden I am popping the 10amp mini fuse that comes off the battery, turning off the controller.
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    That reinforces your current findings that you do have an issue in the harness. So it's time to go over the entire harness very closely looking for damage/chafing/corrosion/broken wires. Especially in any tough to see locations.