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boss plow fell of my truck

Discussion in 'Boss Plows Discussion' started by John Mac, Jan 2, 2008.

  1. John Mac

    John Mac Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    I own a 03' Boss RT3 8' 2' v blade that has been used alot. I added 1' extensions on the blade last year so now the plow is a 10' 2" v blade. What broke is the push frame part
    # trf 01311. One side broke at the pivot point, limped back to the shop and just as I pulled into the shop the other side broke. The metal just cracked in font of the pin on both sides, so the head gear was still attached and the plow was only connected by the lift cylinder. At 4:30am I had to weld it all back together again and lift frame back into the coupler assembly and put pins back in, I think my welds should hold for awhile, did some enforcing but Boss makes a different push frame for a 10' blade, cost about twice as much as the one I have around $1000. Does this push frame fit in the coupler assembly that I have or is that different also. What is the difference betweens the two, my manual only shows drawing of the one I have. Any help would be great. Thanks
  2. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    John, the push frames are completely different between the 10' and your 8.2. The coupler pin holes are different, the horizontal pin hole is different, the front of the beam is wider (won't fit your center tower).
    In fact, there isn't a lot of parts that interchange between the 10' and the 7.6 8.2 and 9.2 V's..

    Until you got the 10' push frame to work, you'd have to do so much to it, it'd be a waste of time and money. You'd be much future ahead starting with the correct push beam and reinforcing it to your liking.
  3. John Mac

    John Mac Senior Member
    Messages: 374

    Thank you BB,

    This is how I fixed it hope it works. As stated before the push frame cracked completely off on both sides about 2" in front of the pivot pin.

    Had to remove the pins and light bar assembly and first weld the pieces back together, first with a mig welder and the ran a bead over the top with a stick 6011 rod to thicken up the weak point. This is the part I think will make all the difference, had a piece of 1/2" thick angle in shop about 3" x 3". I cut a piece of the end about 1/2 think, ground clean and welded this over the top of the brake at a 90 degree angle connecting the two pieces together. Do this on the inside of the push frame about 1/2" in front of the pin hole for this is the only place it will fit, do both sides. I hope the steel is not so fatigued that it breaks at the hole for the pivot next. Both holes in the push frame for the pivot pines were egg shaped so had to build up one side of the hole to make it close to round again and torch new hole to clean it up. I will take the whole thing apart in the summer because I bet push frame at the hinge pin is cracked or worn out also. Did all this to save $400 bucks but if needed can buy a whole new push frame, but I would suggest reinforcement at the the pin areas even with a new frame. the natural thing to do is add wings, everyone likes the idea but you forget the fact that wings add weight, more weight the faster things bend and break.
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2008