1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Blizzard 8611

Discussion in 'Blizzard Plows Discussion' started by wyldman, Dec 20, 2002.

  1. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    For all you Blizzard dealers out there,or others who may know.Are the 8611's available as plow only,minus the hydaulics ? I was thinking of purchasing a few for next season,and would like to mate them to our central hydaulics we have now.Less weight and less trouble.Does anyone know ? If so,how would the power hitch feature work ? or can it be eliminated ?
  2. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834


    From the factory the 8611 comes complete, if you buy from a dealer, they might seperate.

    Being a dealer, I would seperate.

    I have 1 8611 left on my lot.

    See what you think and let me know.

  3. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    As we have no dealers locally here, I would be interested in a price on the blade only, no hydraulics. As well as a price on the mount. E-mail me at wyldman@idirect.com

    What is your location and could you ship it to buffalo,ny so i could pick it up ?

    Also can the plow be hooked up fairly easily without the power hitch feature being used ?
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2002
  4. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834


    For central hydaulics on the Blizzard, you would still have to use the manifold, but delete the pump and resvoir.

    The Power Hitch will still work using central hydraulics.

    8611 minus pump, motor, and resvoir, you'll be looking at about:

    $4025.00 plus $300.00 for shipping.

    Just some info.:eek:
  5. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I don't really want the manifold setup,as it is still using the electric coils to actuate the valves no ? I have a valve stack (run off cables in the cab,for power up,float,and angle.I can add another valve to the power beyond port,or stack them,to run the wing cylinders.I am assuming they use cushion valves for the wings to ?
  6. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Also adding just an engine driven pump to those type of setups does not work,as they are not full flow,they usually go up when you pressurize the manifold inlet port,you would have to add another valve to bypass during non use and return to the resevoir.
  7. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    I'd be interested in hearing how this setup works out. I was interested in the Blizzard for my 550, but didn't want the redundancy of the electric pump, as I have central hydraulics too.
  8. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Warranty wouldn't really be a concern on just the blade,whatever breaks,i'll fix it,unless it a hugh manufactures defect.

    Pelican - it is easily done with central hydraulics,you will just need another valve to control the wing functions.Hard part is getting just the plow without all the hydaulic stuff.If you want more info,drop me a line,i'll show you how to set it up.

    If I can't get a Blizzard blade only,maybe I'll have to make my own :)
  9. staley52

    staley52 Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 98

    please send me some info on the mods also I am wanting to change my trucks to central hydraulics
  10. Jerre Heyer

    Jerre Heyer Senior Member
    Messages: 948


    Rob at Bison Turf in Buffao, Ny can set you up with an 8611 or and 810 for pick up at his Tonawonda shop. His # is 716-876-2000.

    The central hydraulics will work with both but you are right you'll have to add 2 more valves. One for each wing. You'll need cushion valves set at 1500-1800 psi. in both directions and the angle will need to be set with a cross over relief at 3000-3500psi.

    Steve, if wyldman can't hook you up with the schematic I can. Cost is a big issue as is the fact of 2 more control rod's or cables in the cab.

    I know you probably want to get away from the percieved problem of valves on the manifold, but the simple way would be to make a manifold block for the hydraulic lines to attach to the existing manifold and use a flow reducer to drop flow down to 2-4gpm at the manifold and use the standard controller. Filter on you hydraulic system makes for a clean operation. Only 2 hoses to hook up on the front of the truck

    If you do the full valve setup you are talking about you will be hooking and un hooking 12 hoses every time you drop the plow.

    Just food for thought ........ Jerre
  11. Jon Geer

    Jon Geer Member
    Messages: 834


    I use the factory Blizzard manifold with one dump valve, and I only have to hook and unhook 2 hoses. Remember you have one hose for flow and one for return.

    Plowed with it last night, ZERO problem with the 8611 or Swing Wing rear plow.

    Ran out of gas in my Honda on my last 2 drives ( but I carry a 2 1/2 gallon can with me).

    Just some thought.
  12. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    I don't necessarily need manual valve control, I had inquired about solenoid valves for my current plow. I really like the joystick operation of most of todays plows, it's a tough transition jumping into the Snowfighter from my flatbed.

    The 9' blade just isn't big enough for the 550, I've been considering my options. I wish I had had this info back in May.
  13. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265


    The Blizzard to me seems to be a viable solution for better snow removal.I'm not a fan of v-plows,but that's just me.I know they work for some,but not for me.I have always made,had,or run wider than normal plows,or boxed ends for more efficiency.The Blizzard combines all this for me,without having to remove wings or boxes for a decent transport width.Most of our blades run 10-15 ft,but have to be manually detached to attain a legal transport width.

    I think the majority of the problems with the Blizzards are electrical,hydraulic,etc,hence my inquiry into running everything off manual hydaulics.I think it can be made to work fairly simply.As far as the rest of the plow,I'm sure we'll bend it or break it,but nothing I couldn't fix,or make better with a torch,a welder and some steel.I'm sure Blizzard will have some teething pains,but nothing we can't sort out in due time.

    Most everyone here in this thread has either added some good information pertaining to my original questions,or has requested more info as to how my setup will work,or does work out,without the need for product bashing or sarcastic comments.
  14. fastjohnny

    fastjohnny Senior Member
    Messages: 653

    Ignore certain posters

    If you follow certain posters on this forum for very long, certain trends are apparent. In fact, it seems some post on a wide variety of subjects with very little to say, often critical, and seldom informative or substantive.

    Blizzard is a growing force in the industry, just look at how the 'old timers' on this forum have changed their position in the past year or so.
  15. itsgottobegreen

    itsgottobegreen PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,351

    I just bought a F-350 dump with a 8.5' meyers running off central hydraulics. I want to put a blizzard 8611LP on it. I hate anything that is electric. So I want to do the same. Directly run it. Removing 7 hydraulic lines would be ok with me. Since I only have to removed it once. At the end of the season.

    I currently have 3 sticks in my cab. The left two for the plow. The right one for the dump. Plus I have a control box for my spreader under the driver's seat. I guess I would have to add two little valves to this set up.

    Anybody near Maryland would be able to help me out. Or could someone post a picture of there set up. I currently
  16. Mark Oomkes

    Mark Oomkes PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,416

    We set up an 8611 last year with central hydraulics. It uses the manifold from Blizzard, minus the pump. Like Jon Geer posted, you run a supply line and a return, wire in the controller and you are all set. It's a great setup. We will be doing one more 8611 on our other 550 and a LP on my new 350.