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Bleeding Brakes????

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by Sharpshooter77, Sep 21, 2006.

  1. Sharpshooter77

    Sharpshooter77 Senior Member
    Messages: 162

    IF I remember right you start at the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I think :confused: On my 1985 F-250 4x4, the brake pedal feels really soft and it goes to the floor. The truck does stop, but not quick enought for my liking, So I'll bleed them and go from there. Nice little weekend project. :)
     
  2. tsmith

    tsmith Senior Member
    Messages: 255

    Some have a specific order, at work and on my own I always start farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closer.
     
  3. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Might be the master cyclinder too. Try pushing the brake pedal when the trucks not running to bleed off all the vacuum. The pedal should remain firm and not sink. If it does you may have leakage in the master cylinder piston cups.Try bleeding it multiple times,use clear tubing so you can see if your still getting bubbles out.
     
  4. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I use 6 foot oxygen supply tubing for bleeding brakes. It's the disposible stuff that's light green and see through. It has a flange at each end that you trim shorter till it fits on the bleeder.It works great, fit's tight and does not leak air around the bleeder. Medical supply places will sell it to you. Bleed into a pop bottle with some rocks in it to hold it upright.
    Start at the Rt rear,-->Lt rear --> Ft right, then front left
    Keep the master cyclinder full
    Might even think about adjusting the rear brakes if you feel no change in pedal travel.
    The star wheel adjusters will freeze up and not automatic adjust when backing up.
     
  5. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    Air just doesnt just get into the system for no reason. If you have air then you have other problems. A soft peddle is often caused by the calipers aren't sliding around like they should be. Or if you have drum brakes in the rear then adjust them up...Rob
     
  6. WINTER MGMT

    WINTER MGMT Junior Member
    Messages: 1

    Make Sure The Rears Are Adjusted Properly First, Make Sure The Master Is Putting Out Fulid At The Front Of The Master Or Some Fords That Vintage Had Rabs ( Rear Anti -lock Breaks). Located Under The Drivers Seat On The Frame Rail Is The Rear Abs Control Valve, Over The Years If The Break Systen Was Not Properly Maintained The Valve Sticks And Does Not Let The Proper Amount Of Fulid To The Rear Effecting The Pedal.
     
  7. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    A way to check for " blow by " on your master cylinder:
    Get an assistant to watch the brake reservoir with the cover off.
    You touch the brake pedal (lightly) just enough to move it past the holes that supply the piston with fluid. Say now, and press the pedal down as far as it goes. The assistant then watches the reservoir for movement of fluid upward / boiling. If there is some you may have brake fluid getting past the piston because they are worn out / damaged.

    I know it's a chore but,you might consider pulling your back drums off.
    Like I said above the adjuster wheels freeze up all the time. I have seen the cable type adjuster setup have the cable rust off. The adjuster levers lose the edge needed to engage the star wheel,the wheel's edges round off do to rust.
    Replace the springs and any questionable hardware anytime you do rear brakes. That stuff's been on there how many miles / years now?