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Best place to buy cutting edges

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by killed300ex, Mar 12, 2005.

  1. killed300ex

    killed300ex Senior Member
    Messages: 293

    were do you guys buy your cutting edges for your plows. I am looking for one for a 7 1/2 foot fisher seems prices and thinknesses range alot wondering what you guys use and were you get them. Thanks
    Evan
     
  2. Allagash

    Allagash Senior Member
    Messages: 159

    I just bought one for my Meyer plow. It was $120. I bought it from these guys: www.genalco.com. A buddy of mine is a rep for them. Their main office is in MA, close to the NH border and I'm pretty sure they have a NH rep.
     
  3. HIGHWAYMAN

    HIGHWAYMAN Member
    Messages: 32

    we buy blades at atlantic broom, hyde park check price 1-617-361-8600
     
  4. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Too bad you are not around North East Ohio our prices are about $75 or so for a cutting edge from Millsupply.com
    We have steel mills around here so that may help on price.
     
  5. IA snoman

    IA snoman Senior Member
    from Ia
    Messages: 153

    a couple of guys I now go down to our local steel mill and get a piece 90"x6 or 8" and drill bolt holes for it and they are done
     
  6. davidrbean

    davidrbean Member
    Messages: 49

  7. justme-

    justme- 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,138

    Atlantic Broom when I have time or in a hurry my local Fisher dealer is competitive- 8' x 1/2" was $94 with hardware.
     
  8. jwwieberg

    jwwieberg Junior Member
    Messages: 18

    Local dealer price was around $ 100 got a piece cut and drill my own holes for $ 40.
     
  9. killed300ex

    killed300ex Senior Member
    Messages: 293

    when you buy your own peices how exactly do you decide were to drill the holes. Like verticly on the steel. HOw much overhang do you want on the bottom of the plow ect. Thanks.
    Evan
     
  10. scuba875

    scuba875 Senior Member
    Messages: 250

    Just line up the top of the old cutting blade with the new steel clamp the two pieces together and drill out your holes. Just make sure you use a good bit and cutting oil and you should have no problem.

    If you know someone with a magnetic drill press borrow it. This will make the job a lot easier and you know the holes will be straight. Just make sure you clamp them down good so the two pieces can't move independent of each other.

    I don't think you could rent one cheap enough to keep the price down to make it worth doing yourself. If you can't borrow one you will have to do it by hand. I have one so that is how I would do it but I would also tac weld the two pieces together instead of clamping them. It all depends on the type of tools you have at hand.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2005
  11. killed300ex

    killed300ex Senior Member
    Messages: 293

    the problem is the plow doesnt have a cutting edge on it rights now so i cant line it up off the old one. So say you have a six inch cutting edge if someone could get a measurment how far down from the top their holes are on their fisher 7 1/2 ft plow it would be a great help. Or should the top of the cutting edge be even with the trip edge. Sry but i am pretty new at this and can use as m uch guidance so i dont screw up a good peice of steel. Thanks
    Evan
     
  12. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Make a template out of cardboard tape it to the back of the mold board and use a sharp pencil to draw the holes onto the cardboard. The same brand plow may have different spacing from model to model or year. My Meyer 6' standard I am told is different then a 2 meter Meyer. Take the cardboard template with you if you order one and make sure it's the right one.
    Murphy's Law applies to plowing no doubt!
     
  13. plowed

    plowed Senior Member
    Messages: 344

    If the top of the cutting edge is above the trip edge, when the blade trips, it will get hung up on the cutting edge and will not return to the unsprung position. This will definately happen with a poly edge too. Therefore, you want the top of the cutting edge flush, or to go no higher, than the top of the base angle.
     
  14. scuba875

    scuba875 Senior Member
    Messages: 250

    Evan no problem thats how we all learn by asking questions. These guys have helped me a lot on this site. I am new to owning my own truck and had a lot of questions about the business end. Repair and fabrication is my main gig so that is where I can give some back.

    Like Micki said make a template.

    John gave you the answer on the trip edge, I have never seen one, my blade is a full trip so I have nothing to compare it to.

    Is there marks on the plow where the old edge was? If so you can just line the template up with that and like Micki said just tape it down to the plow good and mark the holes on the template. Just cut out those holes and transfer that to the new steel with a white paint pen or chalk stick like I described if you were using the old edge for a template.

    One other thing if you cant find a drill press to use and you end up drilling them out by hand, use a drill with a low speed setting on it so it will cut better. With bigger bits you will cut better at slower speed but it has a much higher torque so just make sure you have a good grip on the drill. At the end of the hole it might bind up a little.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2005
  15. tessdad

    tessdad Member
    from S.E. MA
    Messages: 71

    Evan, from the top or the trip edge (also called a "base angle") the original holes are 1 1/2" down on a Fisher. I often remove the wear bar from the back side, and drill the holes up to a total of 3 1/2" from the top. This gives you more usable life to the replacement edge.
    To make sure it will fit, clamp the new edge in position, at a point you have marked, using the largest drill that turns easily in the square hole of the edge, mark((start drilling) the center of the new holes. Remove the edge.
    The size of you finished hole should be 9/16", start with a small 1/8" pilot hole and work your way up.
    At my shop I charge $75.00 to $100.00 to drill holes, depends on if I have to remove an old edge or not.
     
  16. OneBadDodge06

    OneBadDodge06 Senior Member
    from Iowa
    Messages: 735

    is that 75-100 per hole?? or is that for the entire thing
     
  17. tessdad

    tessdad Member
    from S.E. MA
    Messages: 71

    RE: is that 75-100 per hole?? or is that for the entire thing

    That price is for layout and drilling of all holes, on the plow, and removal (by torch) of the small wear bar section on the back side. This piece interferes with the lowered bolt pattern. A cutting edge and or bolts would be extra.
    If you buy a piece of mild steel, you will be wasting your money! This needs to be a higher quality wear plate type. Generally, you can't drill this type of steel easily, never mind making the holes square. The manufacturer punches the square holes in with a press.
    On Fisher plows, 1/2" x6" is standard, but 5/8" x6" or x8" is available as an aftermarket item, sometimes you have to drill new holes to mount an aftermarket edge. The fisher plow hole pattern is based on 12 1/2" on center locations, but most everything else is "Highway Punch", 12" on center.Usually what to use is based on what the nearest dealer carries.