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best and easiest way to repaint dump bed?

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by turfguy87, Aug 30, 2010.

  1. turfguy87

    turfguy87 Member
    from OHIO
    Messages: 30

    I just bought a 2000 Ford F450 dump with a steel dump bed and I want to clean it up and repaint it. It's got some surface rust thats flaking. I'm seeking some advice from those who have done this before. I don't have access at the moment to a sandblaster.
    What's the best way to remove the rust and repaint it in your opinion?

  2. Brian Young

    Brian Young PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,382

    I just did this to my dump bed on our 00 GMC. First off, it was a real PITA grinding! Very, very messy and the out come wasn't the greatest. I spent about 170.00 on a DeWalt grinder (which I wanted any ways), about 150.00 on a gallon of black equipment epoxy paint with anti rust stuff in it (which didn't work), about 50.00 in primer and about 30-50.00 in grinding discs in various grits. I spent about 30+ man hours grinding, patching, priming and painting. NEVER AGAIN! I just got (today) a price for a company to sandblast and primer with some aluminum zinc primer.....estimate was 1150.00. I said screw it, I can buy a new flat bed for that. I already have the hoist to make it a flatbed dump, so thats what Im going to do next year. My bed was in pretty bad shape but will get me through this year, if you just have light surface rust and no rot the you might get away with spending a couple hundred bucks. Grind down until smooth, paint with Rustolium and good to go. I tried the expensive epoxy paint and there is tons of rust within a year. Good luck.
  3. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    That's a crazy high price IMO. I'm bout to get one of mine done. I'll let you know how much it is.....but I'm guessing 4-5 bills blasted, primed and painted from what they've charged for stuff in the past. And thats a union shop.
  4. Brian Young

    Brian Young PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,382

    I dont know if thats high or not but just wayyyyyy more than I wanted to spend! He charged me last year to blast my Fisher 1000 frame 40 bucks, I didnt think that was too bad.

    BTW Turfguy, dont waste your time (if you try to sand blast) using one of those small blasters you can buy from places like Harbor Freight. We tried one of those hooked up to a 80 gallon compressor and it was like p!ssing in the wind trying to blast that Fisher 1000 frame.
  5. pmorrissette

    pmorrissette Senior Member
    Messages: 175

    I would use a wire wheel on the grinder to knock all the loose stuff off, then apply 2 ~ 3 coats of rustoleum.
  6. IMAGE

    IMAGE Sponsor
    Messages: 1,737

    POR 15 is supposed to stop rust. Its a paint that old hot rodders use on frames when redoing old cars. I think UV rays degrade it, so you have to paint something over it when its exposed to sun light.
  7. ff610

    ff610 Senior Member
    Messages: 320

    I have done 3 in the past year and half. My first one I paid to have it blasted, including the frame cab back for a couple hundred bucks, and paid a body shop 5 hundred bucks to paint it all. You get what you pay for. It was starting to rust within 60days. The next 2 I paid about 1200 total, and that included good primer, paint, and a professional job. All of them were 9' dump including frame, suspension, from the cab back. It just depends on how long you want it to last. Cheap primer and paint is the worst thing to waste your money on IMO. Good luck!
  8. SServices

    SServices Senior Member
    Messages: 161

    What part of ohio are you from?
  9. streetscrapin16

    streetscrapin16 Senior Member
    Messages: 161

    Either use a wire wheel on a drill or grinder. Or go over it all with 80 grit sand paper and a DA sander. Then primer and paint it.
  10. x.system

    x.system Senior Member
    Messages: 368

    Blast, prime and paint is going to be the quick and easy solution. We do it every day, shouldn't have more than 2 hours into blasting and 2 to 4 hours prime and paint. $400 to $500 depending on color.
  11. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    Man I guessed pretty close then :)

    I agree though. Sure beats the he!! out of grinding and sanding, a guarantee that you won't get it all anyhow (inside corners, etc). Let alone all the mess involved. :dizzy:
  12. jomama45

    jomama45 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,172

    One more vote for subbing out the sandblasting. The guy with the right equipment can do it in no time. And I've done the grinder/sanding route before. Lucky to get a year out of the box before it starts to look bad again, regardless of what you paint or prime with.
  13. flykelley

    flykelley 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,124

    Hi X systems, what type of paint do you use and were are you located at?

  14. ff610

    ff610 Senior Member
    Messages: 320

    Man that's cheap! What kind of primer and paint do you use if you can include materials and labor for that price? The first one I did the hard way cost me nearly 300 in primer and paint alone, and it was nothing special. Let me say again this sucker was rusting again all over very soon after!
  15. x.system

    x.system Senior Member
    Messages: 368

    Here's a project that is in the same $400-$500 range. 2 hours to blast, 3 hours paint. We use PPG primer and paint. This shop was built when everyone got on the go green kick a few years ago so it is set up in a way that almost everything is recycled. We don't advertise at all, we go after the accounts we want. We just landed one of the biggest accounts in MI. I can't say who it is but I can say it starts with M and ends with DOT. We are located between Lansing and Grand Rapids.

  16. got-h2o

    got-h2o 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,439

    Looks sharp, and I can only imagine the PIA blasting and painting all of those bars would be!