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Belt driven pump to power steering pump?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by Ackerson, Dec 12, 2009.

  1. Ackerson

    Ackerson Junior Member
    from iowa
    Messages: 2

    I have an old V belt driven plow... i cant get the pump to mount right, i really dont know if the pump is any good.. i'm wondering is it possible to hook up the plow through the power steering pump and have it work ok?


    not having power steering doesnt really bother me i just need the plow to work!
     
  2. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

    Re: Power Steering pump

    I converted mine on my 1998 Chevy K1500 after reading an article on this site from a guy who converted his 4 years ago. I have a Fisher MM1 and mine works perfectly. You do not even notice a difference in the steering. All I did was buy a new power steering hose from NAPA, cut it in half, have the NAPA store swage on 1/4 NPT hydraulic fittings on each side, and bought a 1/4 NPT quick connect to join the two. One side goes to the valve box "In" side, and one goes to the "out" side and back to the steering box. The system is superior to the Fisher pump and the fluid stays warm from the proximity to the engine block. Could not be happier with mine.
     
  3. wicked85

    wicked85 Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 34

    Would you have any pics of this setup? I have a 92 Chevy with an old pump and I am having trouble getting it to fit on the crank with the power steering hoses in the way at the gearbox.
     
  4. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

    RE: Power steering pump

    I will try to take some pics and post this week. It really is a nifty setup. I have never posted pics so bear with me. Also this post goes out at 12:30 AM on a Sunday night, so give me a few days.
     
  5. wicked85

    wicked85 Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 34

    I could give you my email address, and you could send them there. I have an old pump that is made by John S Barnes, and I cant find any info for it. The hoses on the gearbox look like they will get in the way of the belt off the crank pulley too. I am in California for work and wont be home until just before the holiday, so no hurry, I dont have the plow with me :)
     
  6. dzrick

    dzrick Senior Member
    Messages: 110

    UpstateNYer,

    We've talked before, I wanted to come take a look at your setup. If you want to send pictures to me I'll post them here so everyone can see how you did it.

    I can link you to a thread that will show you how to post pictures using photobucket.com too, it really very easy and free.:drinkup:
     
  7. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

    Re: Pics

    Sounds easy enough to me,DZRick. I will try to take those today if it is bright enough. Also to wicked85, I have posted this topic before in greater detail and the guy from Alaska who originally posted this topic had some diagrams. If you do a search on this site you may still find them.
     
  8. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

  9. dzrick

    dzrick Senior Member
    Messages: 110

  10. Ackerson

    Ackerson Junior Member
    from iowa
    Messages: 2

    Thanks for the help... I have it all hooked up now. It seems like it should work I just have to get my up and down fixed.. The left and right works.
     
  11. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

  12. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    I got a question for you, UpstateNYer, hope it's ok to ask it here(I can't PM yet).

    In the pics I noticed there's an extension on your P/S reservoir. I assume it's to keep it from over-flowing with the extra ATF that's needed when doing this swap? Got any tips? What did you use at the top?

    TIA
     
  13. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

    Reservoir extension

    I used an 1-1/2 PVC pipe and a Fernco coupling to extend the reservoir. I then took an 1-1/2 PVC pipe cap and drilled a few small holes in the top to vent it. I also used a bit of that blue RV silicone to seal the extension to the reservoir body at the Fernco. I used the plow today in single digit temps and it performed like a dream.
     
  14. plowinginma

    plowinginma Senior Member
    from MA
    Messages: 326

    years ago.. not only did I run the plow but also a hydraulic tailgate off the power steering pump.. I never had any issue.. However it was on an old dodge powerwagon..
     
  15. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    cool, thanks UpstateNYer!

    Hydraulic tailgate you say? That must have had a long coulpe of lines going the length of the truck? I was wondring if a small wood splitter could be used when the plow is off...but don't have the extra $$ to play around with that right now.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2009
  16. wicked85

    wicked85 Member
    from Indiana
    Messages: 34

    The valve I have has 3 sections in it. It looks like the middle one routes from one side to the other and back to the return, probably for leakage. I am going to look and see if I can remove the one section that is not being used. The other problem I noticed is that I did not get cables with my setup, the guy was using a solid 1/4" round bar with a handle on the inside of the cab for the controls, obviously there are 2 of them. Does anyone know what cables I need and the controller? Thanks again guys
     
  17. Alloutofdonuts

    Alloutofdonuts Junior Member
    from NH
    Messages: 23

    I was going to ask the same thing! I have cables but they're about 1ft too short from where I had to mount the VB, so I have the stick mounted at the lowest point. It's not not awful but up where it should be would be nice. I was going to go to the Fisher dealer and see what they could do, from what I've read on here they are pretty reasonable.
     
  18. UpstateNYer

    UpstateNYer Member
    Messages: 30

    Cables

    First, I do not think you can remove a section of the valve block. The other two sections receive the fluid power from the center section. You will also notice that the center section allows the fluid to recirculate through the pump when either the up-down or left-right cylinders are not taking fluid. I would consider rebuilding the valve block. The factory cables are available from several after-market plow part suppliers (CPW, etc.). The original control lever is another story, I have seen them in some junkyards, if you can find one, they are really well designed. They are made to be mounted to the dash on either side of the steering wheel. I fabricated a bracket that I mounted to the floor near the transfer case lever. It is about a foot high and allows me to rest my arm on the bench seat and operate the lever with my fingers. The cables I had were just long enough to allow me to mount the valve-block to the second battery tray on the drivers side. You gotta be a little creative to work it all out.