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Belt area squeak...

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by mkwl, Nov 15, 2007.

  1. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    I've noticed lately that the belt area on my truck (6.0L) has a squeak between 1500 and 500 RPM's. It seems to be most evident on damp or rainy days, when the temp is colder. It isn't like a constant squealing, it's like a squeak that coencides with the speed of the engine. Anyone have any idea what it could be?

    Thanks,
    Matt
     
  2. Philbilly2

    Philbilly2 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,634

    could be the belt sweaking.... sorry, I had to. My truck use to do that too. I use some type of belt dressing from farm and fleet and it took it away. comes in a spray can
     
  3. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If the noise is related to damp weather then more than likely it's the belt causing the noise. Remove the old belt and clean all the pullys with brake clean and a small brush to remove any traces of old belt material (a very important step that many guys overlook btw). Then replace the belt with the best one you can find. GM or Goodyear Gatorback are both good belts...

    Never spray belt dressing on a serpentine belt system!

    Some guys will tell you it's ok, but it just covers up the problem and can cause more harm than good.
     
  4. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    If you know your belt is in good shape and it is it that is squealing, a wee bit of fluid film will help. Ok I retract that since B&B say not to do it. It worked on a noisy v-belt, but that is different. It might also be the bearing in the idler, or the clutch on the fan. Could be alternator also. Take a long screwdriver and place the handle against your ear-the blade on the alternator housing, then close to the idler, very carefully so as you do not hit the belt or fan. Very carefully! That should help you isolate where it is coming from.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2007
  5. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Correct ss, belt dressing is designed for V-belts and can work fine for them..:)

    But belt dressing is just a "cover up" for a belt, pulley, or pulley mis-alignment problem and is usually just a temporary fix.. but it is easier than fixing the problem :D.
     
  6. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    I sprayed a little WD-40 into the center of one of the idlers- squeak seems to have subsided for now, we will see. It's really more like a regular chirp than a squeak.
     
  7. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    Absolutely, better to repair. How's this for backpedaling to save my image:D ....I guess I was thinking along the lines that if it helped then you've narrowed it down to the accessory drive being the source, and then you can dig deeper from there.
     
  8. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    I saw over there that someone suggested that. I wanted to advise against that. If the bearing was dry the WD wont last long or do much for it. It will probably thin and cause loss of what grease is left in there if there is any. Now pull the belt and turn that idler by hand, I bet it rumbles a bit. Same as above...you didn't fix it but now now the part that is the cause.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2007
  9. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    What's the best way to take the belt off? Can the idler all the way to the top left (looking at the front of the truck) be easily replaced (without taking more things apart than taking off the belt and the pulley to be replaced? Anyone know how much these pulleys cost to replace doing it myself vs. dealer doing it for me?
     
  10. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I like it ss! :D
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    A steady "chirp" noise is usually a belt problem..a noisey bearing will usually growl or howl or only chirp every couple of seconds.

    If you sprayed the bearing area on the pulley, then I guarantee you also got it on the belt which will hinder your diagnosis.. let to go for a few days to burn off the WD-40 and then try this:

    With the engine running (BE VERY CAREFUL HERE!) spray/pour some water on the belt. If the chirp instantly goes away then it's a belt problem, not a bearing problem...make sure you do the A/C belt too as it's a separate belt..

    If it doesn't go away then you need to dig deeper to see what's up.

    To pull the belt it's easier if you pull the air intake tube off and then just pull the tension off the tensioner pulley and remove the belt..

    The main tensioner pulley is easy to change on the 6.0's. Just remove the bolt out of the center of the pulley and remove the pulley...

    If the tensioner doesn't seen to have a lot of tension on it when you pull on it, I'd suggest replacing the whole tensioner/pulley as an assembly..a little cheaper that way..
    Figure around $60-$80 for a tensioner/pulley assembly.
     
  12. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Okay, which pulley is the main tensioner?
     
  13. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361


    The noise is like a chirp, chirp, chirp, and gets faster as I raise up the RPM's. It's not constant, but rather is chirp, no chirp for a split second, chirp, no chirp for a split second, etc.

    I'll try the water spray idea- how much water to use?

    Where's the AC belt?
     
  14. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    COuld you (or someone else) go onto autozone.com and give me the part #'s I'll need for a new gatorback belt (I have the 145A), and the part # for the pulley in the upper left (looking at the front of the truck) I will need. Also- how hard is it to change out the belt? Can it be re-installed from the top of the engine without taking anything except the air intake tube secion off?
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Look at this pic. The tensioner pulley is the ribbed one at the top passenger side of the engine..closest one in the pic..

    0663_1.jpg
     
  16. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Thanks, that's the trouble maker pulley (I think). Do you know what the part # is for that pulley? Also- is it possible to change out the belt from the top of the engine? Just wondering- how would one go about replacing the A/C belt- can it be done from under the truck?
     
  17. streetsurfin'

    streetsurfin' Senior Member
    Messages: 770

    #4060930 gatorback belt for 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 HD 4WD 6.0 L gasSFI 145 amp alt.

    tensioner pulley only #231086 (water pump, alt, power steering)

    tensioner and pulley #305253 (water pump, alt, power steering)

    Cant help you on the ease of it on your truck other than I dont think it will be difficult at all. Did you find the routing sticker in the engine bay anywhere? I've done it very easily on a lightning and mustang
     
  18. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The main belt is changed from the top side..once you pull the intake tube off you'll be able to get at it much better.

    The A/C belt needs to be changed from under the truck and it's a lot easier if you remove the skid plate. The A/C belt also has it's own tensioner on the underside of the engine..they're a little tough to get to but their not too bad..
     
  19. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    SS, who's part # are those? Their not GM..just wondered.

    mkwl, if your buying at the dealer and want the GM # let me know...
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2007
  20. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    I was planning on getting them from autozone, but if you could get me the GM part #'s I'd sure appreciate it!