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Bank 1 and Bank 2 lean

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Sydenstricker Landscaping, Jan 20, 2009.

  1. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Okay I am getting a SES light for bank one and bank two being leaned out on my truck. Kinda runs like poop right now and has some power loss and piss poor mileage from what it was. I took it to the parts store just to get the thing scanned, but I guess I need to get the real scanner hooked on to it. It doesnt miss or anything like that, just pretty bogged out now when I need the juice to push up a pile,etc. Any help will be 110% appreciated
     
  2. ahoron

    ahoron Senior Member
    from here
    Messages: 422

    Sounds like you have an intake leak.
     
  3. JCI Trans

    JCI Trans Senior Member
    Messages: 313

    I had the same codes on mine (02 2500 hd cc/sb 6.0) It would star in the cold weather, chug for a second or 2, then die. I did this 2 or 3 times then it would start with enough power that i could feather the gas to keep it going til it warmed up. Turned out the PLASTIC intake gasket had warped, upon inspection of the old part almost all parts of the gasket showed blow-by.
     
  4. JCI Trans

    JCI Trans Senior Member
    Messages: 313

    correction, i meant the entire PLASTIC intake manifoldhad warped...not the gasket. sorry for the confusion
     
  5. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,600

    could be a number of things..... If you notice a running issue at temperature then it's probably your o2 sensors. If it's rough from the get go then injectors, head gasket, fuel pressure, map sensor or MASS air flow sensor.
     
  6. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    Yes it does it more when the truck is warmed up rather than cold. But it fluctuates. Sometimes the light will go off and be fine, then come back on after an hour or 2 of plowing
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Two things to check first Tom..

    1) Fuel press. Remember that discussion? :D

    2) Check the air intake between the T-body and that MAF to be sure its not pulling in any un-metered air, slipping by the MAF due to a leak.

    If those check out I'd still double check some reading with a scanner first but it's likely it needs the intake gaskets changed. They're a cake walk to change on the LS engines. :nod:
     
  8. CityGuy

    CityGuy PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 16,984

    Sounds like the air intake sensor. Not sure if you have replaced the air filter yet but my buddy did that on his car and that solved the same symtems you are describing.
     
  9. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    I think it is in the air intake. The MAF was pretty nasty looking, and I took the screen out and the front of the little wires were black. Took a q tip and rubbing alcohol and made them spotless. I am "obama rigging" the intake tube right now. Took that stupid thing that hangs down off of it. Well if it is the intake gaskets, it will have to wait till it is warmer or spring. If that is the case I may wait till then and look around for an LS6 intake too.

    I will check all of that. I think it is from the K&N getting the oil crap on the MAF
     
  10. JCI Trans

    JCI Trans Senior Member
    Messages: 313

    yes the chevy MAF sensors are very sensitive to the k&n oil, i've had to clean mine a few times because of that.
     
  11. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    I think if this fixes it, I will switch to a different hi flow filter that does not require oil. May save my a$$ in the end
     
  12. MAR4CARS

    MAR4CARS Senior Member
    Messages: 246

    Chances are its a bad intake if that turns out to be the case look into Dorman Products replacement intakes they are redesigned to try and avoid the issue from reoccurring.
     
  13. ABES

    ABES PlowSite.com Addict
    from MN
    Messages: 1,322

    What about an exhaust leak ahead of the 2 front 02 sensors? I had bad collector gaskets and it was leaking and throwing the ses light with those 2 codes.
     
  14. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    If that is the case, I am goingto look for a newer LS6 intake for it. Adds a lil HP too.
    I do have that issue. Havent fixed the leaking manifold gaskets yet. Dont really have the time to and it is going to be a big PITA to drill the broken studs out of the heads. Thankfully the heads are cast iron though. I really do want to smack the idiot that owned it before me and tryed to fix the manifolds and snapped the bolts clean in the head. It doesnt leak very bad, but enough to hear it on take off. It is not deafening or anything, just has a little click when I get on it.
     
  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    I was under the impression that you had fixed the exhaust leaks already Tom?

    Ok..

    1) Don't replace any other parts until you fix those leaks as thats likely your actual issue
    2) Get the oiled air filter out of there and pitch it in the trash.
     
  16. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,600

    ...after years and years of 'education' I can clearly state the following formula ...........


    HIGH PERFORMANCE == HIGH MAINTENANCE




    Sure, you can argue the benefits however, you can not argue the maintenance aspect.
     
  17. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    I understand that, but this is not a maintenance issue. It is the old manifold bolts are junk and broken off in the head.

    Well I figured out how to fix this, I guess. Since there is absolutely no room to get a drill or anything for that matter in there, I have 2 options. One is remove the hood, fenders, and raise the cab off of the truck. Downfall: A crapload of wires and lines I have no desire to deal with. And Im not a body guy. Option 2: Remove the entire top end of the engine and drill the busted studs out of the heads on a workbench. I have rebuilt an engine before, so I know my way thru that. Downfall: Will be putting all new gaskets in and will be too tempted to toss in a bigger cam and headers at that point, lol. But it isnt a bad thing putting in new gaskets with the engine having 132K on it right now. Only part that sucks is the truck will be down for a while, so I will need to have a 2nd truck to pull my trailer this season. No matter which way I look, it is going to cost some $$$$. But still cheaper than a shop would charge
     
  18. sechracer

    sechracer Senior Member
    Messages: 478

    cant you get into it through the wheel wells?
     
  19. Sydenstricker Landscaping

    Sydenstricker Landscaping PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,882

    I tried that, but the back end of the engine is stuffed into the firewall pretty good. Another one of GM's design wonders:dizzy: I would say the engine sits a good 6 inches or so back into the firewall. I can get to all the other bolts except the back 2 thru the wheel well
     
  20. ahoron

    ahoron Senior Member
    from here
    Messages: 422

    Try a right angle air drill might work.