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Ball Joint Stuck. Need help fast

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by chcav1218, Oct 6, 2009.

  1. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    I'm putting new upper ball joints on the truck. the shaft on the left side popped right out, on the left, I'm having tons of trouble. I have pretty much destroyed a pickle fork, bent it out of shape, and and tried using a huge pry bar. What should i do next? heat it with a torch? cut it with a grinder? I thought of using a pitman arm puller but there's not enough clearance to get the bolt in it. Thanks in advance
     
  2. What shaft? The axle shaft?
     
  3. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    the shaft on the ball joint. whatever its called. the bolt that slides into the steering knuckle
     
  4. Those are press in ball joints. The service procedures tell you to remove the entire control arm and use a shop press to remove the ball joint. You are working on the truck in your post right? 2000 new body 2500hd?
     
  5. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    its a light duty. and even if i want to take the entire arm off to take it to a shop, i still need to separate the all joint from the knuckle. its a 2000 silverado 2500ld, ld the hd.
     
  6. If there is any pressure pushing the upper control arm it won't come out. Try taking off your outer tie rod end if you haven't already. Sometimes things get overlooked. step back and take a break. if the other side basically fell out, this side should too
     
  7. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    Do you mean the drag link ??? Or the actual upper ball joint????
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
  8. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Place a pry bar between the upper control arm and steering knuckle to exert pressure on the ball joint stud between the two, and while holding that pressure whack the steering knuckle with a BFH on it's side right where the ball joint goes through the knuckle. See pic...

    08ll.jpg
     
  9. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    Thanks guy's ill see what I can do in the morning
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
  10. dellwas

    dellwas Senior Member
    Messages: 369

    Ya beat me to it. Never had one refuse to let go with the BFH in use.

     
  11. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    Well guys i tried all that, still no luck. i think I'm goin to have to take the axle out so I can have enough clearance to get the jar puller under the knuckle. wish me luck
     
  12. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Either you're not getting enough leverage on it with the pry bar, you're not hitting it in quite the right location, or you're just not whacking it hard enough with the BFH because I've yet to have the method not work in 20 years. It's the last resort that never fails. wesport
     
  13. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    interesting....ill take some pictures in a few and show you where im hitting. it seems like the pickle fork is maxed out almost.
     
  14. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Please don't be offended, but the nut is off, correct? Can you lift up the lower a-frame with a jack, shim between the UCA and the down travel limiter, then let the jack down to put some tension on the joint? Might actually want the nut on for a few threads for this.
     
  15. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    im gonna go snap a few, ill make sure i have them posted tonight but i gotta head out. on my bicycle :cry:
     
  16. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Forget about the pickle fork Chris, use the pry bar. The pickle fork just gets in the way and won't provide enough pressure with the space you're working in anyway. That's likely why it isn't coming apart for you.
     
  17. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    I've already tried using the biggest pry bar i have, even tried stand on top of it! here are the pics. teh red arrow is where im prying, the X is where I'm hitting

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Remove the lower shock bolt so the suspension can fully hang on the upper control arm's bump stop. This will allow the weight of the knuckle to "hang" on the ball joint stud. Also disconnect the tie rod. Then turn the knuckle fully and whack it HARD where your yellow X is. It'll come apart.
     
  19. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    ill try that tomorow. maybe ill have my friend hold the pry bar while swing the hammer. the thing that really bugs me is that this isn't even the side that needed to be replaced! I was just trying to do the right thing and replace both sides
     
  20. chcav1218

    chcav1218 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    I went out and grabbed a 60" pry bar. I had to stand on it to get any results, and even then it didn't break free of the knuckle! The ball joint itself just popped apart. just took a few swings with the BFH right on the stud and it knocked free. Now it time to do the idler arm and pitman arm. I'm not looking forward to it. Think it's worth paying to have them done? Both have to be done before the truck can be realligned