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Auger rusted onto a snowex 1075 and 575.

Discussion in 'Ice Management' started by maelawncare, Dec 11, 2009.

  1. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    Anyone know what to do if the auger is rusted on?

    Of course the allen hex bolt stripped out even after using pb. I tried soaking it again and using a screw extractor but that didnt work either. Should i try to just drill it out with a normal drill?

    I dont want to mess up the shaft, but i need to get this off.
  2. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,990

    Remove the hopper and take a torch to it.
  3. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    Already have the whole housing off. And i dont have a torch. So plan C?
  4. cretebaby

    cretebaby PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 4,162

    Use a grinder and cut it off.
  5. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,990

    Use a cut off wheel not a grinding wheel.
  6. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    But wouldnt that cut my shaft from the transmission? So i would have to buy a new transmission and a new auger
  7. Deco

    Deco Senior Member
    Messages: 453

    thats what happens when you drive them hard and put them away dirty ...

    try douching your equipment before you store. diesel fuel works well
  8. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    I bought it used. So the loser before me didnt know wtf they were doing. I dont understand how people cant just clean their equipment. Pisses me off.
  9. Try one of the torch kits from home depo with the push button ligniter.... get the yellow 1lb can i think it burns a little hotter. My friend had to use a torch on mine to get it off. I never-seized the living piss out of it once it was cleaned up.
  10. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    Ok i will try that. Are you saying to cut it off with the torch? Or heat it up and see that works.
  11. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,105

    maelawncare just drill out the set screw if you have stripped the head out. Just dont drill thru the shaft. We use a 5/16 SS as a replacement in place of the 1/4 20 set screw.
  12. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    So bad news for me.

    If the SS gets rusted in and you have to drill it out. Your screwed. The SS goes inside the shaft so thers no way to get it all the drilled out w/o drilling through the shaft.

    So i am screwed, this ******* that i bought it from backed into something. Bent the housing so bad that the transmission sits off. Causing the auger to rub on the container. Which is why i needed to take it off. So i could hammer out the housing straightening it. But now i have to cut the shaft in 2 places, cause of course the spinner is rusted on too. And order a transmission, auger, and spinner. All cause someone doesnt know how to back up.

    Heres what the transmission looks like. And i might have to order the whole setup, drivetrain. Which is $738 :(

  13. tuney443

    tuney443 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,847

    This sounds like this can be saved if you listen to me carefully.I've been doing this stuff forever on stubborn pump shafts,gears,pulleys,etc.
    You most definitely need serious heat--acetylene is best but for that 1/4'' set screw,mapp gas[yellow canister] will do fine.Before you go to Home Depot/Lowes to buy your new torch,soak that set screw and shaft with your PB Blaster.When you get home,soak it again,then pour the heat on the SHAFT,NOT THE SCREW. Your intent here is to expand the hole that the screw is in.There will be some flames and a lot of smoke coming off the shaft so before you get to this step give your credit card to your wife or GF and send her off to her favorite jewelry store.It's only money--you'll get over it.This way she won't call the fire dep't. on your ass.As soon as you have that shaft EXTREMELY hot,get your easy out back in that hole you said you already drilled, and take it out. Good luck.
  14. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    Too late for that. I got pissed and started cutting. Drive train worked just fine, but i was pissed and wanted to get it off. So now i am left with this :angry: And by the look at it the transmission might not have lasted much longer anyways. Bearings were pretty much shot.

    I have the replacemetn list at $350 so far just for the auger and transmission. I already have a replacement spinner. But im not sure this housing is worth keeping. Its pretty banged up and rusty. I can get a whole new drive train for $738. With housing and everything. I dont want to drop $350 and then turn around and have to get everything else anyways.



    Last edited: Dec 12, 2009
  15. fernalddude

    fernalddude PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,105

    OUCH thats got to suck but sometimes you got to just do it. Now just move on and rebuild it good luck
  16. brown

    brown Junior Member
    Messages: 1

    This response is clearly too late for you, but maybe it will help someone else. I just rebuilt my SnowEx 1075 transmission and had a hard time getting the auger and spinner off. What worked for me, and works for most rusted parts, is to apply a healthy dose of PB and let it soak in. A day or so later apply heat in an effort to expand the outside unit (the auger or spinner in this case), but not the inner piece (the shaft). Then apply another dose of PB. The expanded outer piece will create a void for the PB to work its way inside. Also, the heat will actually draw the PB into the pieces. I had to drill both the auger allen screw and spinner bolt on my unit. The metal is thick enough to re-tap even up to a 3/8 16 thread. I still had to do some hammering on the shaft and had to grind the end of the shaft a little because I slightly deformed it by hammering. I was able to save everything and rebuilt the transmission with new bearings and seals. My transmission and motor were both full of sand when I got it and had almost polished the interior to a shine. Good luck.
  17. Deco

    Deco Senior Member
    Messages: 453

    my spinner shaft on the 1875 has been bent for 2 years now , bearings seem to be crying a bit ...im waiting for it to fly off :laughing:
    throws a unique spread pattern now:dizzy:

    trying to put off buying the whole trans myself
  18. maelawncare

    maelawncare Senior Member
    Messages: 871

    Just hope you dont have to buy other parts :( My replacement parts will be in tomorrow or wed. I just ordered the whole drive train. So i'll basically have a whole new spreader.
  19. Scottscape

    Scottscape Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    should have left it alone if it worked. These things are junk after 5-6 years even with washing and care. They will work BUT they will rust no matter what! I've got one that the damn frame rusted holes and some angle iron and some welds work great.

    Then the control box goes, thats another 500.00.

    I just buy new ones once they junk and dont work at all
  20. clark lawn

    clark lawn PlowSite.com Addict
    from NE ohio
    Messages: 1,233

    find a local machine shop, i bent the shaft on mine and got a buddy that has a machine shop to replace the shaft only cost me about 30 bucks as opposed to 350