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anyone hear anything about the western HTS plow?

Discussion in 'Western Plows Discussion' started by bigal3639, Jan 31, 2011.

  1. bigal3639

    bigal3639 Junior Member
    Messages: 9

    i am thinking of getting one for my silverado, and i haven't been able to find anything else on it, so i decided i needed to ask ussmileyflag
     
  2. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    in the last 2 years i have sold close to 20 hts plows. great little plow. we had 2 with warranty issues so far. 1 had a leaky cylinder and 1 had a stuck valve. both repaired under warranty.

    for a non commercial plow they are great. everybody i've sold 1 to loves it.
     
  3. vi009dz

    vi009dz Member
    Messages: 37

    I have one on my 2001 Yukon, and I LOVE IT. As said above, its not a commercial plow, and I wouldn't take it on a route to do 10 driveways, but I plow my own 300' uphill driveway with ease, I plow our 1/8th mile shared private road, and help a couple local friends.

    It is a VERY capable plow.

    I was looking at the Snow Dogg MD75 to begin with, and am VERY glad I went with the HTS. I believe the moldboard is 3" taller, which is very helpful.

    Installation of the wiring harness took me about 1.5hrs, and installation of the frame mounts was another 1.5hrs. Very easy and intuitive to do on your own. Something else that is GREAT about the mount setup, is that you bolt mounts to the truck frame, then there are secondary mounts that connect to the frame mounts, THEN you install the plow. These secondary mounts come off, and when they are, the frame mounts barely protrude past the air dam. In the summer, with the secondary mounts off, its tough to see you have a plow, and is a very clean look. My wife loves that.

    My only complaints so far, through 1.5 winters....and this is EVERYTHING.

    1) It comes with little whips with flags that mount to each end of the plow for knowing where it is. The first time the plow tripped hard, one broke off. The second time it tripped, the second broke. Just a crappy design overall, and I never bothered to buy new ones.

    2) If you go on youtube and watch the video of the HTS, they show you simply driving up and gently sliding into the Ultramount to install it. They show unhooking it the same way; gently back out once everything is unhooked. I need to line mine up, and drive into it while moving to help slide it into place. Even then, sometimes I need to get out and push the plow by hand into the mounts before the cam lock will grab it, and suck it the rest of the way in. Same for removing the plow. I drop it down, and need to pull one one side of the moldboard, then the other, then the other back and forth to help disengage the mounts. I attribute this to my rig squatting fairly well in the front. It isn't a show-stopper, but it IS something I have to do everytime. Also, the little stand thing they give you to support things when its not in use can be awkward, since its only 1 pegleg, and only on 1 side.

    3) The backdrag / plow lock thing they advertise for backdragging really doesn't work worth a fart, but most don't. Just know that you aren't going to backdrag down to bare ground with it. I think the SnoWay is the only downpressure plow out there. I bought the backdrag blade they sell for $90 or so, thinking that might help, and it really didn't. Just keep that in mind.

    4) I had to install Timbren bump stops in the front, because I was squatting like a cat in heat with the plow suspended. Again, with a pickup, you might be better off.

    Aside from that, its a GREAT plow. Yeah, its no 8.5' V-plow, and I wouldn't go into business with it as my only rig, but for a homeowner that does 3 or 4 other driveways, I see it as the perfect fit.

    If I were to do it ALL over again, I think I would have tried the Fisher HT series plow as a comparison. Its basically the identical plow, but its an edge-trip versus a full-trip and has a different mounting system. I would have just liked to try it, but I must say, overall I am 95% pleased with the plow, with 4.5% being the install / removal hassle, and .5% being the whips breaking instantly.

    For summer, I washed it with soap and water twice, then emptied a can of WD40, coating the entire plow setup, and let it sit. This fall, it looked absolutely brand new again.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2011
  4. SMillerHD

    SMillerHD Member
    from IN
    Messages: 69

    What do you have that you are thinking of putting this blade on? If you have a small truck\suv I would go for it, if you have a 1\2ton or bigger I would get a more HD plow.

    VI I would have cranked your torsion bars up a few turns, it would help the ride and support the plow better.
     
  5. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    to ease removal try putting the plow in float and rock the headgear back and forth a little then pull the pin. i know the cylinder locks down but is worth a shot.
     
  6. vi009dz

    vi009dz Member
    Messages: 37

    Torsion bars were, and are already cranked to the max, and it still squatted so much that the stand / lever would barely make it to the ground. I would actually LIFT the front of the truck slightly when I dropped it. Tough to explain, but the lift would scrape the ground before it would lock in the DOWN position.

    Timbrens made ALL the difference.
     
  7. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    have you adjusted the stand shoe?
     
  8. vi009dz

    vi009dz Member
    Messages: 37

    I did. With it absolutely as short as the stand can go, it still barely allowed me to lower the stand. Even with timbrens, I have maybe 1" of room between the bottom of the stand and the floor of my garage, when I go to drop off the plow.

    1/2 ton Yukon
    Timbrens
    Cranked torsion bars
    265-70-16 tires.

    ......dunno. It just isn't high up in the air. Works fine, but without Timbrens...it was a chore.
     
  9. no lead

    no lead PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,308

    lets unhijack bigals post. the gm's sit low in the front. ballast will help this as will timbren load boosters. the HTS is a good plow for somebody doing a few driveways. everybody that has one loves them.
     
  10. mjsmith70

    mjsmith70 Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Here's my review after almost the second winter with the HTS. I have the HTS installed on a 2008 Dodge Ram and its a good fit. I have used the plow as a secondary vehicle to plow commercially. The plow itself is built pretty good for the weight and what its designed for. All the hydraulics have performed flawlessly. I have plowed alot of lots and some heavy snow with the plow and it has done a pretty good job. I have broken the cross bar on the A frame that the hydraulic lift cylinder is connected to. This is the weakest part on the whole plow but takes most of the abuse as this is where the weight of the plow gets raised and lowered. I had a local welding shop repair the crossbar and beef it up so it does not break again. So at this point my only suggestion would be to have the crossbar beefed up before it does break.
    Oh and if it does break dont count on western to warranty the design. If you plow small stuff and driveways you shouldnt have any problems the plow will do fine.
     
  11. JPK Excavating

    JPK Excavating Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    I am very pleased with my hts this season I have it installed ona 2006 nissan titan I've been pushing 50 accounts 3 private roads and 2 lots all season so far. It was going to be a backup but F350 went down hard so I've basically beat the snot out of it during my new england winter. I added commercial guids and I will replace the cutting edge with half inch steel for next winter but I put this plow and this truck to the test I plow hard due to the amount of work for one truck so I am pleased if u are doing any less than me u will be fine
     
  12. sd_truck_tech

    sd_truck_tech Inactive
    Messages: 14

    I would stay away from cranking the torsions unless you want the truck to sit higher and slightly stiffer even without the plow. Timbrens are the way to go like everyone is leading to. We put timbren kits for chevy on almost every one we do with a plow.
     
  13. JPK Excavating

    JPK Excavating Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    the torsion bars r what we do the new trucks have such a rake to them nowadays we usually go 3 inches on a new chevy
     
  14. JPK Excavating

    JPK Excavating Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    Just go for an alignment afterwards
     
  15. mishnick

    mishnick 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,243

    I just fixed one that was only two weeks old. The A-frame had broken off right at the front where the two beams join together at the pivot. Welds were cold and even had pain under neath. Only about one inch of actual good weld. When the front broke of course it twisted with the plow up and eventually broke off the angle iron cross piece that holds the bottom of the lift ram. Owner was furious and not only called us but called the Western rep too. They danced and had a $500 hotshot delivery from another branch the same day so that I could stay (overtime at Western expence) to replace the a-frame and bent lift ram. Owner said western rep told him they did have some bad welders who have since been terminated because they just would'nt change their bad habits. Was a dissapointing experience but was impressed with how Western danced for the fast resolution of the problem.

    Personally I think the HTS is a hobby plow, not intended for any sort of comercial use. And the single stand shoe can make it difficult to get hooked up to the vehicle. With two shoes you can push on the plow when you are close but with one shoe the plow just kinda tips over.

    That's my two cents worth.
     
  16. mgac716

    mgac716 Junior Member
    Messages: 1

    I just came home with my New HTS on my 2011 Silverado 4x4 Regular cab.
    On the way home the OUTSIDE air temp display on the dash was climbing steady all the way home. . It was 35 deg outside and the readout said 112deg on my dash. the truch was not over heating and my trans temp was about 159deg. I called the installer, he said he had never heard of this problem before.. any one know of a fix ? Thank you for your help
     
  17. theholycow

    theholycow PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,180

    The outside air temp sensor on my 2002 is placed perfectly to have air flow blocked by the plow; the area could build up heat without causing the coolant to get warmer and show on the gauge...and the OEM gauge doesn't show every variation in temperature anyway, temp can swing 20° (according to OBDII data I monitored) before the gauge moves. It's barely more useful than an idiot light.

    Don't know if your 2011 has the same sensor location or gauge uselessness.
     
  18. cubicinches

    cubicinches PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,412

    So, you really don't think it was 112 degrees outside? :confused: Just kidding... ;)

    Common issue with GM trucks. Read here:

    http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=114166&highlight=Ambient+air+sensor

    Or do a search on ambient air temp sensor.
     
  19. G&G Maintenance

    G&G Maintenance Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    same thing happens to my 04....the temp monitor gets blocked by the plow...overall I have had no problems with this plow. I unhook and rehook on level ground and can do it in about 30 seconds. I plow a few small commercial lots and do a couple residential long drives. I have have had the plow since last winter, and it is still working great with no problems even after all the snow CT got last winter.