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Anyone have Pics of Ford Dual Battery?

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by NEUSWEDE, Feb 24, 2005.

  1. NEUSWEDE

    NEUSWEDE Senior Member
    Messages: 949

    I saw TLS's dual battery for a GM but I have a ford and have no clue where 2 batterys would go. I am going to do this soon and would like to have pictures of a Ford Dual Battery setup.
    Thanks
     
  2. CyberJay

    CyberJay Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    I just got the kit from Wrangler NW and it looks like a great kit. I haven't installed it yet but I'm really impressed with the overall quality of it. The second battery goes near the air box and you have to relocate the smog canister that's on top of the fender. The kit includes all the instructions and brackets you need to do this. It's $355 + a battery. I like the Optima yellow top.

    -Jay
     
  3. NEUSWEDE

    NEUSWEDE Senior Member
    Messages: 949

    $355 damn what do you get for that price? What other options do I have?
     
  4. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    Man for $355 I'd put it in the bed and run cables. I have the same problem, I wont spend $355 to solve it though.
     
  5. CyberJay

    CyberJay Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    You get the tray, which relocates the smog can. Battery hold down. 2awg wire to connect the batts. High quality terminals. 200amp solonoid to disconnect the battery when off. And this "battery management switch" which allows you to select main batt only, main batt and aux batt seperate when you have the key in acc. or both batts all the time.

    Personally I don't think I needed the switch, but I just grabbed the kit anyway. I know it sounds like a lot, but I refuse to put the battery in my bed and with a brand new truck I'm willing to pay a little more for a nice neat install.

    I did a dual battery setup on my '78 suburban myself. I got the tray from chevy and the cables from the local parts store. Cost me $120 for the tray and wires. No isolator, no fancy switch. I also used 4awg.

    -Jay
     
  6. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    That sounds more like it for me. Don't get me wrong, if you want all the bells and whistles that's great. I don't care whether or not I can shut them off whenever I want or not. I just can't figure out where to mount it either.
     
  7. NEUSWEDE

    NEUSWEDE Senior Member
    Messages: 949

    is it possible Ford has something? Don't Diesels have 2 batteries or isn't there another model that has 2 batteries? I will have to go to my dealer tomorrow to get my truck washed for free, I will check on it with parts dept.
    just a though.
     
  8. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    They probably do, however when they mount the two batteries, they do something with all the other stuff, I, at least, can't figure out what to do with it. Someone told me to do away with the windshield washer resovoir, that would be real stupid wouldn't it?
     
  9. NEUSWEDE

    NEUSWEDE Senior Member
    Messages: 949

    Yea don't do away with the washer reservoir. I used the search button and went back to a dual battery discussion about maybe a month ago and saw someone said they have 2 batteries in a Diesel and each is mounted behind the headlights, well stock is behind passenger headlamp, so the aux battery tray will go behind driver side. Well Cyberjay said that with his kit you remounted the smog canister. His kit has a bracket, why not just make my own. Well I am gonna take on this project starting tomorrow, I am currently not plowing, just snow blowing so I have plenty of time to take on this task. Once I am done I will post how I did it. Well off to my dealer tomorrow to get the tray.
    Wish me luck
     
  10. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    Thanks for the interest, and any future help.
     
  11. LINY Rob

    LINY Rob Senior Member
    Messages: 478

    are you guys drawing the sytem down that much?
    I run the plow, lights, defroster, wipers and radio, and dont need the 2 batteries, my old jeep had a single battery and I didnt need one there either. I do commercial parkinglots so im working the controls constantly for hours at a time until the drive to the next stop, barely getting over 10mph.

    is it a colder enviroment for starting purposes, peace of mind, or is it running strobes, salter, etc? I cant justify it to myself although I was going to put a higher amp alternator in this summer just for some peace of mind.
     
  12. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    I think that that is what I need to do. I get a heck of a spike when using the plow. At night, yes I run the lights, strobe, heater and radio.
     
  13. LINY Rob

    LINY Rob Senior Member
    Messages: 478

    I gave up on the spikes, I figure a 40-60 amp draw on the system is going to make something slow down, powermaster makes a 200amp alternator for most Ford applications
     
  14. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    Mine has gotton worse this winter, I'm pretty sure that I probably need a new alternator. It always spiked a little, this winter it seems worse. It's the stock alternator.
     
  15. LINY Rob

    LINY Rob Senior Member
    Messages: 478

    the 200amp is kind of pricey, they sell a 140amp, I think you can even get a 140amp from Ford or any real alternator/starter shop shop
     
  16. NEUSWEDE

    NEUSWEDE Senior Member
    Messages: 949

    I am not plowing yet, but will next winter and don't want to have any dimming or problems when I have my strobes, heater, music, lights and plow going, just want to be prepared, it is cheep insurance. I am thinking of adding other things like a tailgate spreader or pull plow so better to upgrade now while i have nothing better to do than later when I am swamped with work and have no time.
     
  17. gt_racer50

    gt_racer50 Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 484

    How about NAPA, Carquest, or Advanced Auto? What kind of money for the 140 amp?
     
  18. THREE W

    THREE W Senior Member
    Messages: 122

    Will take pictures tomorrow and post them her of the diesel 2 battery set-up.

    Mine is a 2000 F250 superduty.
     
  19. NEUSWEDE

    NEUSWEDE Senior Member
    Messages: 949

    That will be much appreciated.
    thanks
     
  20. CyberJay

    CyberJay Junior Member
    Messages: 29

    I've been into high end car audio for over 10 years. A "big" system can draw 80amps from time to time, and that was enough to kill a stock (CAR)alternator over a couple years. When I built my first big system for myself I ran dual batteries and I had that vehicle and system for over 5 years and never had any electrical problems at all.

    Now when the bass would hit on my friend's single battery systems the lights would dim a little bit.. kind of like when you move your plow. I've read on some site that a plow can take up to 400amps from time to time. For the sake of my electrical system, I think a dual battery is the way to go. If I was only running the plow, I think I might not go for the duals, but I have the plow, 1000 watt stereo, strobes, amature radio, aux driving lights, etc... Just the stereo and the plow represent almost $10,000. What's an extra $500 to bring the electrical system up to it's peak? I dunno, that's the way I looked at it.

    My '78 Suburban would turn off if I was working a small lot and had to angle a bunch. That's why I put the second battery in that. Once I did that, I never saw my voltage drop below 12.0v.

    For you skeptics that think your truck is running fine, get a digital volt meter and see what happens.. Below 10v is BAD. Below 12v is putting a strain on your alternator.

    -Jay