1. Welcome to PlowSite. Notice a fresh look and new features? It’s now easier to share photos and videos, find popular topics fast, and enjoy expanded user profiles. If you have any questions, click HELP at the top or bottom of any page, or send an email to help@plowsite.com. We welcome your feedback.

    Dismiss Notice

Alternator pulley for more idle juice

Discussion in 'Commercial Snow Removal' started by Plowzer, Feb 24, 2003.

  1. Plowzer

    Plowzer Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Anyone know where to find an 8-groove pulley for a Ford Powerstroke alternator? I can only fine oem. I can't find anyone that makes 8-groove pulleys because only the Ford and Dodge diesels have them i guess.
  2. snowflake

    snowflake Member
    Messages: 86

    try a alternator repaiir shop thye should be able to help you out with a differnet pulley that you want

  3. Big Nate's Plowing

    Big Nate's Plowing PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,266

    Nevada Auto Group they are the place that I got my 160 amp alternator from and they said that they could put any size pully on any alternator, I got a 2" pully on mine and I get 80 amps @ idle
  4. JCurtis

    JCurtis Banned
    Messages: 862

    Not sure this will help but look up March pulleys

    I dont know the link.
  5. hyperpack

    hyperpack Senior Member
    Messages: 108


    I have a pulley listed in an alternator parts book,54mm od 17mm id 8 groove, Which I translate to 2 1/8" od and .699id that is the smallest my book shows.
  6. Mike 97 SS

    Mike 97 SS Banned
    from U.S.A.
    Messages: 1,106

    I was going to say try March Pullies too. I found the link for you guys, www.marchperf.com. Mike :)
  7. Plowzer

    Plowzer Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Wow, thanks for the replies guys! March Pulley was my 2nd choice= nada ; Local guys = nada, not even close ; Internet search = nada, most didn't even understand. Then I found a nice lady who referred me to a nice guy in TX. Wednesday I should have a 1.9" 8-groove alternator pulley. We'll see if it makes any diifference. I'll post my results and see if this pulley will help with current draw at lower speeds, especially on a diesel.
  8. rec067

    rec067 Member
    Messages: 34

    I am interested in a smaller pulley for my diesel. What is the addy for the company you found ? Thanks. Keep us informed on how it works for you.
  9. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    I dont know the ratio of the stock setup,but most alternators give a full charge by 3500 RPM.So dont go beyond 3500 alt RPM at idle. You can usually get the ratio by marking the crank,and marking the alternator and barring the engine 1 full turn while you count the turns of the alternator.If you over gear the alternator,this can lead to alternator overspeed at high engine rpms'. I blew 2 GM 100CSI's to pieces doint this:( .You can over rev the alternator,just keep that in mind. The narrow power banded diesels can usually get by with smaller pulley. High RPM gassers need to run the alternator much slower at idle,so they dont blow them to pieces at 6000 engine RPM. BTW the GM 100CSI doesnt like to go beyond 18000RPM:D ,parts fly everywhere).
  10. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I was just going to mention the same thing John,don't overspeed the alternator.Spinning them a little faster really won't benefit charging output by much.Only thing it does it put more wear and tear on the alternator,and maybe even blow it up.If you want more idle juice,step up to an alternator made for the job.Most of the OEM stuff has very little low RPM output due to the very small frame sizes,and small rotors and stators in the alt.A larger frame alternator will put out more amperage at idle,and run much cooler,extending it's life.

    The alternator I run on my truck is rated over 200 amps,and will put out over 140 amps at idle if the batteries need it.No need to overspeed it as I already have more than enough output.It's not a hopped up stocker either.It's a Leece-Neville alt designed for OTR trucks.I'll never go back to wasting money hopping up stock alternators.The extra current you gain crates heat,which the little case cannot dissapate,which kills bearings,and burns up the alternator quickly.
  11. Plowzer

    Plowzer Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    Correcto'mundo! Leece-Neville is a great set-up. I just hooked up a Powermaster. If says it puts out 135 amps @ idle. The idle speed they say in their spec sheet for the alt. is 2400 rpm. LOL! I usually don't get past 2500rpm. So my guess is I might be wasting money if I can't get it to put that out @ 1000 rpm or so. Oh yeah, 200+amps @ 6000 rpm! Don't they make a specific alternator that is set-up for low rpm diesels? My parts guy says he can't test the new set-up I have cause it's a diesel. He can't get an rpm reading from an ignition wire. So i'm trying to find out what this is putting out on my truck before and after pulley swap. We'll see.
  12. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    The RPM's stated may be alternator RPM.The alt usually runs at 2.5-3.0 times crank speed or engine RPM.Most true diesel alt's are very large frame alt's to get the low speed output,and they also use a higher ratio to speed it up some too,due to the larger crank pulleys and balancers on a diesel.

    If it's rated at 2400 alt RPM then than would be aprox 800 or so engine RPM,so it may actually do it.I think the powermasters use the stock case size,so I'd be a little leary of the true output,and would be worried about excessive heat.If you can't get a larger frame alternator in there,maybe look into the dual alt setup they have on the newer powerstrokes.

    I got lucky,with the Cummins being an inline motor,there is enough room for a very large alt,and it bolts on with minimal mods.Best part of it,was the price.You can get a Leece Neville 140 amp unit (WAYYY underated),that will last forever and put out all the amperage you want for around $150 brand new,and they have them on most truck shop parts shelves at all times.May want to see if one will fit.
  13. Plowzer

    Plowzer Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    I hope they're talkin' alternator rpm not engine rpm. It does not specify so I am assuming it's engine rpm.

    from NJ
    Messages: 196

    March ?

    I got a smaller diameter Pully from march performance for my ford ?? Did you call them up , that s what I did , they had them in billet aluminum and billet steel, the aluminum ones came in colors .. ohhhhhhh... I went with the steel black one , cause who cares what color it is LOL... it was $20 .00.... And now my alt is charging like a champ at idle like 14.5 I think... used to be like 12 or lower.... Give March a call and talk to one of the techs there ....
  15. Plowzer

    Plowzer Junior Member
    Messages: 17

    March Pulley said they don't make 8-groove pulleys, period. They said it would cost about $1200 to make a custom one, LOL! OKAY, I'll take TWO!:rolleyes: I finally found one after calling literally all around the country. I just need to find a way to get this new Powermaster alternator to work with me. We can't seem to get a ampere reading from it. I talked with Powermaster and several others and no one seems to know what the dealy is. We can get a strong volt reading. I want to see the amps this is putting out with the stock pulley vs. smaller pulley. I can calculate it out but i still want the testing equipment to show the results also to verify. Any suggestions before i return the Powermaster?:confused:
  16. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Any good auto electric shop should be able to bench test the alt for output vs alt RPM,and then you can just convert the alt RPM to engine RPM by calculating your pulley ratio.

    You can also test it on the truck without a connection to a tach wire.Just use the tach in the truck for your RPM readings.You can even use a simple clamp on type DC ammeter which goes over the positive charge wire to the battery.

    You may want to look at upgrading the charge wiring back to the battery and installing a bigger alt fuse if you have one.My setup blew the 120 amp alt fuse pretty quick.I now have a 200 amp fuse,and a 4 gauge wire from the alt to battery.I also added a dedicated 4 gauge ground from the back of the alt to the battery as well.
  17. John DiMartino

    John DiMartino PlowSite.com Veteran
    Messages: 2,154

    Wyldman,where do you get that big fleece alternator,how hard is it to adapt to my CTD,wiring wise,and mounting brakcets? I have a 24V,but there is still a ton of room there.How did you adapt the pulleys? You blew the 120 am fuse,that is to cool:cool: , Ive seen a lot of them blown,usually because the guy changing the oil hit the alt lug with his filter wrench.Truck goes inf or oil change,ends up sitting there for 3 days,wheil they replace alt,and tear apart harness all because they blew the fuse:) .
  18. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    The alt I used originally was a big 240 amp or so unit which was over 600 CDN.It was overkill,both in performance and price.I then tried a 160 amp unit.I am now using a 140 amp unit,part number 110-555,or commonly known as the "triple nickel".Most heavy truck shops have tons of them sitting on the shelves,cheap.I paid $230.00 CDN for mine,brand new,not rebuilt,no core charges either.I have seen them as low as $140.00 or so in the US.It is the best price to performance ratio.

    It is pretty much a bolt on affair.The two lower mounting ears are further apart than the stocker,and use a bigger bolt (1/2"),so I made up some spacers to insert into the ears to reduce the hole size to 3/8"and cut down an old chevy alt spacer to fill the gap between the rear ear and the Cummins mounting tab.Up top,I made two short plates that bolt into the existing mounting hole in the stock upper alt bracket and extend over to the upper mounting tab on the Leece-Neville unit.

    The pulley was an off the shelf heavy truck unit (for the serpentine belt),which I had machined down to get the belt alignment right.I have all the measurements somewhere if you really need them.I also had to go to a slightly longer belt as well.I have the number for that too.

    The only other part is some slight rerouting and bending of the coolant lines going to the oil/water cooler for the trans.No biggy.

    I upgraded both the ground and charge wires too,to handle the extra juice.

    When it's cold,she'll put out over 100 amps,just off idle.It bench tested at almost 200 amps.Not bad for an alt rated at 140 amps.The best thing is,it never gets hot,and will probably last a lifetime.The voltmeter reads much higher and stays much more steady now.We have the same alt on our big International salters,and they have been on there over 10 years.
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2003
  19. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Here is a link to the TDR discussion on the install,I think most of the info and part number are in there,if not,just let me know,and i'll dig them up.I'll try and get some better pics up here too.

    Alt install discussion
  20. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Top view.

    You can see the extended mounting tab for the stock upper bracket.