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After plowing

Discussion in 'Residential Snow Removal' started by DrB, Dec 2, 2006.

  1. DrB

    DrB Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    When you are done plowing and taking the plow off. How do you store it?

    Right now I have it outside ( I have another toy in the garage that demands the space there)
    My wife does not want it out on the driveway all winter so I am going to have to move the toy ( sportscar) to the otherside of the garage and put the plow behind it.

    Is there any problem with storing it outside?

    SB
     
  2. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    There are going to be two problems with storing a plow outdoors.

    1. Plow and/or jackstand sinks in to mud. This will screw up the alignment when you go to hook up. Your A frame is now lower than it was and may be frozen into the ground. To avoid theses problems, put boards or plywood under the moldboard and jackstand.

    2. Subsequent snowfall will cause you truck to be higher, relative to the plow. There are a couple of ways to adjust this - neither of them easy. Raise the A frame or dig out where the truck wheels will run onto to bring the level of the truck back down to meet the Aframe.

    Sometimes you will get a combination of #1 and 2.:realmad: I advise leaving the plow hooked up overnight whether it's going to snow or not.

    Other than those, the problems with leaving a plow outdoors, is it's real cold hooking it up and 3:00 AM and snow gets into everything. Ice might form on connections. I've done both (leaving the truck/plow outdoors and in the garage) and I much prefer having it in the attached garage. No walking through snow, brushing snow off the truck, chipping ice off the windows. Back in, so all I have to do is hit the garage door opener and drive out - plowing as I go.
     
  3. SnowPro93

    SnowPro93 Senior Member
    Messages: 375

    Mick is right yet again....we store our plows outdoors...if you don't cover it, it will rust even more and the paint will start to flake off...that what happens to ours because we don't cover them...if you storing it on dirt or your lawn put a board like a 2x8 under the jack to keep it from sinking, also cover it with a tarp, this should help you...and also like mick said put your plow on before it snows...this way your not clearing the now from it during the storm...another thing make sure it is clear of snow after a storm, possibly pressure wash it of all salt...this is make your plow last longer than your truck....

    Benson
     
  4. NoFearDeere

    NoFearDeere PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,714

    After a storm, I take my plow to the carwash, then put a coat of wax on the front of it, and then put it in the garage; I never ever leave mine outside.:)
     
  5. econolinerick

    econolinerick Junior Member
    Messages: 15

    OK I'm new here & to plowing too... My question is: Are you serious about the wax, what works best? You mean the spray wax @ the carwash? I have a Western Poly Pro on a 99Superduty.

    As long as I'm here, does anyone have a recommendation for a new battery? I still have the original one from when the truck was new in May 1998 & I'm thinking the added stress from the plow motor will kill it soon. Lights dim considerably when raising the plow now. BTW I did NOT get the snowplow package, but did get the trailer towing.

    Thanks for your help in advance.

    God bless,
    Rick
     
  6. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546


    As to the wax - Yes. I used regular car paste wax. Last was Simoniz. I just got my new 8' and will be taking it to the detailer that I take the truck to cleaning. He and I discussed it and he will use a a polymer polish on it - the same as he uses on the truck. It will supposedly give more protection than wax. Seems to be working on the truck, anyway.

    Rather than a new battery, get a bigger alternator. I think mine came with a 145 amp as part of a plow prep package.
     
  7. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    I have no indoor storage options right now, so I'm most definitely leaving mine outside. I have a dirt/stone driveway so mud is definitely a consideration. For the time being I'm keepingit on a couple of pallets so its not on the ground, once we have our ground frozen for the year though I'll probably forgo the pallets so they don't get frozen to the driveway and create a problem for me when I'm making my stack at the top of the driveway. I hope to got/build at least a shed next year for my outdoor stuff (plow, small blower, push mower, gas cans, rakes, etc.. Garage is years out in the future since I'm looking at a minimum investment of $20-30k.

    My plow was purchased used and its circa 2000. 3 wire insta-act setup, but its a MM1...the original paint is starting to come off and there is some surface rust all around the edges and joints. I cleaned them up with a wire brush drill attachment and then coated them with a rust inhibitor/primer. Ugly, but it helps. In the spring I'll take it to hte dealer for service and ask about getting the moldboard blasted and painted...frams and headlights are in great shape, so its probably a frankenstein unit that was peiced together from a couple plows.
     
  8. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    If you're leaving the plow outside, puts something under the jackstand and moldboard to keep it from sinking. Even after the ground is frozen, it will sink in the snow and there will be sinking from the freeze/thaw cycle that just happens throughout winter. Better to get the pallets frozen into the ground than your jackstand and blade. I speak from (regretable) experience. Getting a jackstand raised when it's frozen into the ground is done with an 8' 2x6 lifting up on the back end to get up to the next hole. Getting the moldboard out of the ground is done by rocking the truck back and forth while lifting and angling the hydraulics. After the first time, you'll never do it again. Make sure no children are around or they'll learn things you don't want them to learn.:realmad:
     
  9. BobC

    BobC Senior Member
    Messages: 129

    I take the easy way out. I leave it on the truck for the entire winter. Never have worry about sinking, darkness or bad weather issues.
     
  10. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016


    I always put a board under my plow's prop rod, but when I back out of it the damn ting always pivots back towards the truck, resulting in that the receiver part dropping down about 3-4 inches. So no matter what I do I have to go get my hydraulic jack and lift up the end of the plow to mate it to the truck. The prop rod (I thought) was supposed to come down and keep this from happening and as far as I can see it is most definintely not a jack...just a prop rod.

    Am I missing something obvious?
     
  11. Scottscape

    Scottscape Senior Member
    Messages: 662

    also use plywood when storing it in the garage.. concrete causes moisture
     
  12. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    xxxxxxxxxxxxx
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2006
  13. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546


    Not sure. I'm trying to picture it and having a hard time. Do you put a board under the "prop rod" before you pull the pin and let the "rod" fall and put the pin back (actually it's a stand with a shoe shaped piece of metal on the end)?

    This is a Fisher Minute Mount (I or II doesn't matter) isn't it?

    Go to the Fisher web site (use keyword "Fisher Snowplow"). There should be a section that explains what each part is and shows how to connect and disconnect the plow. With your chain on, it shouldn't be flopping toward the trucks (forward yes, toward the truck, no). And if you adjust the stand right, it shouldn't be dropping so much you need a hydraulic jack. You should just lift the triange thingy and the pins snap into the pushplate holes.

    I just thought of something. When you let the "rod" or jackstand down, do you use the rod that came with it to lift up so the pin goes in the next higher hole instead of letting it go into the next lower hole. That would explain the 3" A frame drop.
     
  14. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    When I park it (this is still a new to me MM1) I drop the blade on top of my pallets, put the controller in float and make sure the lifting ramis all the way down. Then I drop the prop rod by pulling the bottom pin out and reinsert that pin into the nearest hole...preferably a lower hole if I can get to it, other wise I'll bring the rod up one hole, pin it and put a board under the base so its tight. I disconnect the 3 plugs, use a crowbar to pull the mounting pins out of the push plates and back the truck away. Thus far, every time I do this the A-frame then flops down and I have to lift it before I can pull the truck into it.

    It would have made so much sense to me if the prop rod thing was built like and old fashioned ratchet-type bumper jack. No fancy hydraulics, just a mechanical jack.
     
  15. dmontgomery

    dmontgomery PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,238

    mine goes on skates and gets rolled into the garage....... as soon as I get the concrete floor in the barn it will go in there.......


    Derek
     
  16. Bruce'sEx

    Bruce'sEx Senior Member
    Messages: 873

    We Store them in the shop, or on skids in the yard. Sometimes if we just taking them off to go for a run around the city, we drop them in the driveway, however by-laws here thats a big no no, unless it's attached to a truck you can't have it sitting in a driveway. similar to no dual wheels. It's something about being commerical equipment.
     
  17. Bruce'sEx

    Bruce'sEx Senior Member
    Messages: 873

    Minute mounts, if you have dropped the lift ram all the way down, will drop back a little, until the chain is tight as you pull away, all ours do it. but thats just normal and doesn't affect the removal and attaching heights
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2006
  18. Jt13speed

    Jt13speed Senior Member
    Messages: 366

    By pallet do you mean those wooden things that bulk stuff is shipped on?? how high off the ground are the pallets that your dropping your plow on? Say the pallets are 4 inches high off the level ground, that means when you drop your blade...there is gonna be that much more SLACK in the lift chain right?? So when you pull your truck back, the way fisher plows are designed, the headgear is gonna fall backwards until the chain is tight and catches it.:dizzy:

    Maybe try this...Next time your unhook your plow, after you push down on the triangle thing, pull the lift chain through that little hook thing so there isnt so much slack in the length going to the moldboard, i dont have a fisher by my friend does and by looking at it, this sounds like its your problem. But when you hook it back up dont forget to pull that chain back out!!! GOOD LUCK i hope this helps xysport
     
  19. Mick

    Mick PlowSite.com Veteran
    from Maine
    Messages: 5,546

    I think maybe your chain is too loose. It shouldn't be so loose that the headgear flops that far backward. Yes, like Bruce'sEx said, it will fall some, but shouldn't be that much. What's happening is the bottom of the jackstand is going too far forward because the chain is too loose. Try shortening the chain. Also, make sure to put the pin in the next HIGHER hole. You want the headgear to fall FORWARD, so that when you drive into it, you can lift up on the headgear and by lifting, the mounting pins will align with the holes and snap into place. If you bought the plow new, you should have gotten a short rod with a bolt sticking out one end. This is used to pry the A frame up so the pin goes into the next higher hole. If you got a manual, procedures should be in there.

    Also, put a board under the jackstand BEFORE you drop it. Then make sure to put the pin in the NEXT HIGHER hole by prying the A frame up so the jackstand drops a little more.
     
  20. mayhem

    mayhem PlowSite.com Addict
    from Peru MA
    Messages: 1,016

    I think you gyus just nailed it. I'll take a look outside when I get going today...gota take the thing off the truck anyway (tentative foreast was calling for 3-6 over Thursday night and we got a dusting). How much slack should there be in the chains when its on the truck and I drop the blade on a level surface? I'm assuming there should be a hair of deflection in the chain with the blade down, frame on the truck and the triangle pushed down...I think I may have a bit too much slack. Definitely too much when its on the pallets though...hadn't even considered that.

    Ground is rapidly getting its permafrost for the season right now though...hasn't been out of the 20's even at midafternoon for close to a week...before which it was in the 70's. A soon as the ground is frozen I'll feel more comfortable with ditching the pallets and I can just drop a board under the jack.

    Thanks guys.