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add lights to Minute Mount2 ?

Discussion in 'Fisher Engineering Discussion' started by Pinzgauer, Jul 30, 2009.

  1. Pinzgauer

    Pinzgauer Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 134

    I did a search but couldn't find anything.

    Has anyone added lights to the light bar on the Minute Mount2 and wired them directly into the harness?

    I am thinking about bolting a set to the light bar and tapping into the high beam wire so they would come on automatically, no need for a separate switch.

    Somebody must have done this before .....

    Thanks .........
     
  2. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Relay them so the you do not use the harness as a power source. You can pick up your trigger off the highbeams but power them from somewhere else.
     
  3. Pinzgauer

    Pinzgauer Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 134

    thanks basher ... I understand what you're saying but could you explain please why the harness wouldn't support the additional draw?

    Thanks ......
     
  4. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Manufacturers today design very little excess capacity into anything. why risk issues with the isolation module or harness by requiring them to handle the extra amp load.
     
  5. Pinzgauer

    Pinzgauer Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 134

    great point ... thanks for the insight. Makes my idea a bit more complicated but still doable.
     
  6. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Unfortunately, the Fisher wiring harness is pretty light. And the iso module will probably catch on fire when doubling the load. I'm actually going to switch mine all over to relays and eliminate the iso module. Going to put an old fashioned toggle switch in the cap to switch between truck lights and plow lights. Oh the horror:eek: Between the marginal truck wiring, and miles of wire on the Fisher harness, along with the extra connections interfacing the iso module into the harness, there has to be some voltage drop.

    As for your project, you have a huge 12 supply at your disposal on the XV. Just connect to the battery wire on the pump relay. Don't forget a fuse or breaker. Weather proofing the relay will be the hardest part. Go to home depot and get a plastic junction box with gasketed cover and fasten it to the headgear.
     
  7. bigbadbrad

    bigbadbrad Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    use a mag switch instead of a relay
    much easier to wire and will handle bigger load, can get power right under cover and use your hi beam to triger
     
  8. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    What's a mag switch? Maybe a picture or link to catalog?
     
  9. Pinzgauer

    Pinzgauer Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 134

    Thanks .... its my understanding that a magnetic switch needs (or is triggered by) a magnet to close or open the relay and is not triggered via current. What am I missing here?

    Thanks .........
     
  10. bigbadbrad

    bigbadbrad Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    should have been more clear, at work we call them mag-switches, because they are big so it's like mag as in magnum, not magnetic, they are really solionds or relays like on winch, a good one is napa part # st-95 looks like a starter solind, but is continous duty, not intermintent. you can find them for less online. We have had some trucks running hella double beam lights with 4 100watt bulbs off of one mag switch and have been running them for 3 years and no problems. just make sure you fuse it.

    edit:
    here is a link for on from db electical, napa one looks the same but is 35 bucks

    http://www.db-starter-alternator.co... 12 Volt 3 Terminal Heavy Duty 15-139 SPL6010
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2009
  11. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

  12. bigbadbrad

    bigbadbrad Senior Member
    Messages: 835

    yeah you could use any regular relay also, for just 2 55watt lights, but like i said that winch relay is usualy used to light up 4 100watt bulbs, qeither in 2 twin beam lights, or 4 seperate lights on a headboard of a logging truck, have seen the rellays out last the truck, was on truck fro a few years, got totaled and was taken off buy owner and put on new truck and still using the same one, and the lights are on quite often up here in the woods on the winter. sometimes overkill is just enough. and it's simple to wire any one could do it it does not mater where you hook power on the big one, and the trigger is the small one.
     
  13. Pinzgauer

    Pinzgauer Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 134

    Has anyone here used these new super expensive LED lights? Would one of those be enough to light up the plowarea?
    Thanks
     
  14. SKYNYRD

    SKYNYRD Senior Member
    Messages: 420

    just out of curiosity Pinzgauer are you running the old style lights or the new intensifiers? we upgraded to the intensifiers on out MM2 last year and, hope to upgrade our old conventional mount on the other truck b4 this winter. b4 upgrading the MM2 i was going to have to add lights to help my dad see but now he sees better than ever, the intensifiers are awesome
     
  15. Pinzgauer

    Pinzgauer Senior Member
    from Vermont
    Messages: 134

    yes I have the new style lights .... they are ok for stock plow lights but in the end not all that sufficient I think. Especially during a storm they tend to cake over and loose their brightness. At least thats been my experience.

    Thanks .......
     
  16. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

  17. BigDave12768

    BigDave12768 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,446

  18. 2COR517

    2COR517 PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 7,115

    Been thinking about this. You can't put the lights between the headlights, the lift arm will block them. You could put a bracket under the headlights though.
     
  19. stillen

    stillen Senior Member
    Messages: 247

    something for thought... ive been doing this for years with NO failure... when i hook up lights and or 12 volt accesories, i always but the standard 12 volt relay from autozone...

    it has the common pins which im sure you are all familiar with

    I always SWITCH the negative side of the relay...... that way , i dont have the change of shorting out if i have to go through the fire wall...I n other words instead of grounding the relay to chassis, i run a wire to the negative side of the relay and then use a toggle to control that side.... it works great....
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2009
  20. basher

    basher PlowSite Fanatic
    from 19707
    Messages: 8,992

    Low side switching is certainly better for a number of reasons but the ground will short to the fire wall. Ask anyone who ever had a Old Western cable control wire short. It completes the circuit and activates the system. It will kill your battery but it won't burn your truck down.