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Actual question for BB..

Discussion in 'Truck & Equipment Repair' started by grandview, Jul 13, 2008.

  1. grandview

    grandview PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,609

    My tranny cooling line is starting leak ,other then replacing the whole line can I splice out the bad section and put in a temp. rubber replacement until I can get some down time for it?

    trans line 001 (Medium).jpg

    trans line 002 (Medium).jpg

    trans line 003 (Medium).jpg

    trans line 004 (Medium).jpg
     
  2. iceyman

    iceyman 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,536

    just use some gumprsport
     
  3. 06HD BOSS

    06HD BOSS 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,611

    ever heard of duct tape duh :dizzy:
     
  4. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,598

    Those lines look fine to me...you sure you aren't leaking blinker fluid?
     
  5. grandview

    grandview PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,609


    Can't be just had it replaced at 100,000blinks ,
     
  6. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Looking at the condition of that assembly you need a bit of "down time" to fix what's wrong with the whole truck. Rubber hose last's right to the point where you really need the truck. Ever had a radiator hose clamp rust out and fail?
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    The king of Fluid Film has rust on his truck? Didn't suspect that was even a possibility. :p

    Sure you can cut out the rusty section (marked in photo) and replace it with high pressure trans cooler hose as a temp repair. But, if you go this route be sure to put a slight flare on the steel lines where your going to slip the rubber hose over or else no amount of hose clamping will prevent the fluid pressure from blowing the rubber hose off, usually at the most inopportune time.

    A more permanent/much more reliable solution is to go ahead and cut it where I highlighted and instead of using rubber hose/clamps, use a new piece of steel line (brake line works well) and brass compression fittings. This assumes the line isn't too rusty right before it bends up to the rubber hose connection (where I indicated)...hard to tell in the pic, too much FF :D. It needs to be mostly rust free for the compression fittings to seal. If it's not excessive, a little sand paper will clean it up enough to insure a good seal.

    trans%20line%20003%20%28Medium%29.jpg
     
  8. elite1msmith

    elite1msmith 2000 Club Member
    from chicago
    Messages: 2,762

    rubber hose is the way too go...

    Like BB said, put a small flare on it using a flaring tool - autozone $20

    and get trans hose.... I would put 2 clamps on each side just to be safe....

    My Aux. Trans cooler has rubber hose and clamps, with no problem, I also worked in a mechanic shop for 4 years part time,...how do u think they do trans flushes.....rubber hose
     
  9. scottL

    scottL PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,600

    I had this exact issue with the trans lines and brake lines running to the back axel. Once we cut we found the lines swollen from rust inside .... Had to cut much further on either side. Simple went to more dollars and time in a heart beat ( chevy tag line, get it :jester: )
     
  10. JD Dave

    JD Dave PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,045

    If you listen carefully, you can hear GV's truck rusting.:D
     
  11. grandview

    grandview PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,609

    Remember JD,my truck dribbled more snow off the sides of the plow then you plowed since you were born!:D



    PS They don't call this area the rust belt for nothing!
     
  12. SnoFarmer

    SnoFarmer PlowSite Fanatic
    from N,E. MN
    Messages: 8,437

    Hey, hey, now you two:nono:

    Waite a sec,

    so I can go get my fishing boots on...

    It's going to get deep...

    ..









    :DO.k. commence....:drinkup:
     
  13. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Don't ever use a socket and ratchet to tighten any hose clamps. It's too easy to break the slots cut in the band. Then it fails later on. No doubt double clamp.
    Losing all your fluid / pressure will kill some transmissions.
    Hard line is much better. Buy a few different tubing benders and take your time. Take the old line off and recreate the bends. No crimps or severe 90 degree bends.
    If the piece your using is too long, make a S bend in it to shorten it. That makes the final assembly easier since you can make minor adjustments to the length with the S bend.
    Most part stores will have a box of adapters if you can't get the exact fittings that your vehicle takes. Not that FORD or G.M. would ever do that !
     
  14. Camden

    Camden PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,598


    LOL - Nicely done :drinkup:
     
  15. 06HD BOSS

    06HD BOSS 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,611

    lets hear it GV. how are you fixing it?
     
  16. grandview

    grandview PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,609

    Well here's the deal,I'm dropping it off at the dealer to replace all the lines.I gave the lines a good look over and I don't want to blow a line in the middle of a storm.:realmad:
     
  17. JD Dave

    JD Dave PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,045

    LOL. That saying sounds very familiar.:drinkup:
     
  18. grandview

    grandview PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 14,609

    Update. The dealer replaced both lines ,total cost was 300 .
     
  19. nicksplowing

    nicksplowing PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,226

    you could have bought the parts gv and i woulda donated the labor........for a homemade pizza:D..
    :drinkup:
     
  20. 06HD BOSS

    06HD BOSS 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,611

    ill keep you guys company for one of his homemade meatball grinders