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ABS and Brake dash lights not working

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by obrut, Sep 11, 2009.

  1. obrut

    obrut Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 149

    I have a 01 yukon that I just did the brakes on and in the process I changed the e-brakes too. While I was adjusting the e-brakes I noticed that the brake light on the dash ws not working. I had a buddy put his snap-on scanner on it and I got codes C0265 and U1041. From what I understand if I have these codes then both lights on the dash should be on. This makes me think that the previous owner pulled the lights out. However is there anything else that would cause these lights not to work?

    Tim
     
  2. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    If it were me- I'd leave it lol. I've had more ABS issues than I'd care to share on my truck- had the same issues on our Suburban.

    Just my $.02- if it's working fine for you as is, I'd leave it alone- save some $$$$
     
  3. mkwl

    mkwl 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,361

    Do the lights come on if you put the key to the run position? If not- they've either been pulled or they're burned out.
     
  4. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Tim[/QUOTE]Hate to say it but you were likely had by the previous owner because there's no way both bulbs would not be illuminated with those two codes...and bulbs don't normally magically "burn out" as a pair. Especially those specific two. So I'd make a safe assumption that the previous owner disabled the bulbs from lighting and could be for two reasons. It either had an ABS issue (which is very likely on an '01) that he didn't want to spend money on or he manually disabled the ABS and thus disabled the bulbs to keep them off.
     
  5. obrut

    obrut Senior Member
    from IL
    Messages: 149

    Ya I think I got had... but really the truck is super clean, 80,000 miles, slt, fully loaded and everything else works for $8000. The ABS on my 00 sierra has been out for about 2 years now but thats me driving it, the yukon is my wifes so I would like to fix it.

    I'm going to take the dash apart tomorrow and see if the bulbs are missing or just covered with tape. I will let you guys know.
     
  6. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    I don't want to drift off of the topic... But since you are talking brake I have a question.. Do I need any thing special or to do any thing special to bleed brakes on an 01 ???? Thanks !!!!!
     
  7. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    You can do a decent job if you pressure bleed with the truck running but to do a complete job it should have a Tech 2 scanner connected in order to manually command the dump valves open on the ABS unit to ensure you're removing any/all air.

    If the system was never allowed to run out of fluid or it was open at the wheels for an extended period of time then the pressure bleeding procedure with the truck running works fine. But if you run the system out of fluid thus allowing air into the ABS unit you will need the scanner to remove the air.
     
  8. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    THANKS !!! So the normal bleeding procedure is find ?? Pump up the pedal crack open the bleeder close ... Rears first then fronts ..... ( truck running ) .........
    I bought the truck used I don't think it has ever been run out of fluid ... I do hear the pads backing off
    ( clack when letting off of pedal and reapplying pedal ) and feel that there is way to much extra play (pad travel ) ... So I want to do a little bleeding ..
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Start with the right rear, then left rear, right front is next, and finally left front. Don't be conservative with the fluid either, run plenty through it as a good brake system flush goes a long way to making the components last as long as possible.
     
  10. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    B&B could any of these conditions lead to what I described above. ?????? Thanks !!!!!
     
  11. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Not likely. The noise you're actually hearing is due to the brake pads being pinched tight in the caliper brackets from rust/corrosion build up in the grooves in which they slide in. Has nothing to due with air in the system although I still highly recommend a flush at least every couple years.

    Need to disassemble them, remove the stainless slider plates on the caliper brackets and chip, sand, file all the rust that builds up in those grooves in order to allow the pads to slide smoothly and evenly as they should. Should restore you pedal travel to the correct height as well as you'll notice better braking performance with less pedal effort and travel.

    It's a pretty common but little known issue on any truck with the same brake design (as yours) that's operated in the rust belt.
     
  12. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    I just replaced the pads... And the Slides all cleaned up.. But the brakes don't seem right !!!!!
    I could really use some help ! ! !
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2009
  13. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    And how did you clean the slides up? If you didn't use a chipping hammer and a file then they're not as clean as they need to be to work correctly. I'm not talking about the attaching bolts that hold the calipers on, I'm referring to the slide grooves that the pads rest in. You have to remove the stainless slide plates and clean the corrosion from the groove that said plates reside in. Thats where the issues are that causes "funny" brake feel.
     
  14. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    Thanks !!! I did wire brush them ... They seemed pretty clean... I applied some lube before putting them back on ,lubed the slides also .... Any other thoughts ???????
     
  15. 06HD BOSS

    06HD BOSS 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,611

    Funny i came across this thread. Because just last week i noticed my ebrake light works only when it wants too. When i turn the key "on" it lights up, but when the trucks running with the pedal depressed it doesnt work, strange.
     
  16. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    If you tipped each of the caliper brackets on their sides with the new pads installed would the pads then fall out of the brackets on their own? If not, then their still too tight in the bracket as thats how loose they need to be in order to work and continue to work effectively.
     
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Sounds like the switch/wire connection on the E-brake pedal needs some attention.
     
  18. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    B & B Thanks I will check them again... I can't believe they have to be that loose .....
     
  19. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    To last in the rust belt they do. It's one of the most overlooked items on the brake systems on these trucks. Guys just throw a fresh set of pads on but don't properly clearance them and then wonder why the brakes don't work any better than they did previously. I've fixed many DIY and also those "$59.99 while you wait" brake jobs simply by cleaning out the pad grooves that they failed to do in the first place. :drinkup:
     
  20. RichG53

    RichG53 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,135

    By pad grooves you are talking about the grooves under the sliders correct ???????