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98 Ford F250 LD 4x4 problem

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by soundnstyl, Dec 27, 2010.

  1. soundnstyl

    soundnstyl Member
    Messages: 46

    So we had a the first snow storm... and what do you know? my 4x4 isnt working... I switch it over to 4H and or 4L. but my rear tire just spins... anyone ever have this problem? is this something of the norm for Ford's? anyone quick checks to determine problem?

    I did leave it in 4H and 4L for a little while cause sometimes it takes a little for it to engage... but still no luck!
     
  2. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    It probably the shift motor You should be able to hear 2 soft clicks then it shifts. Try 4 low with it in neutral. You should hear it shift. Does the 4X4 light come on? If it's bad it will still have the clicks but you will not hear it engage the transfer case. The shift motor is bolted to the transfer case with 4 bolts. If you go to change it be careful there is a brown wire that goes into the transfer case you have to cut. The re-manufactured one I got did not have the pin for the brown wire in the connector. I had to cut the old one off and splice and solder wires.

    If it does shift and the light comes on it could be the vacuum diaphragm on the axle. It engages the axle in 4X4. It could even be the switch or wires/connection bad or vacuum line off.
     
  3. soundnstyl

    soundnstyl Member
    Messages: 46

    Yes the 4x4 light is on. I do hear the clicks but how do I know if it engages? Will I hear something? How much is a remanufacture shift motor? Is it difficult to change and where is it?
     
  4. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    Before I get into the ESOF motor, I'm going to assume you locked your front hubs, right? (Sometimes in the heat of battle, the simplest things get missed ...)

    Since you say you are getting a 4x4 indicator light on your dash, I would suggest that your ESOF motor is shifting your transfer case into and out of 4x4 mode. That would leave your locking hubs. Have you had them apart to clean, inspect and lunbricate them lately?

    If it is your Electronic Shift on the Fly motor, it's located on the back of your Transfer Case. It should be the only thing back there that looks like a motor with wires coming out of it. They're very easy to get to and very easy to replace - if that's your problem.
     
  5. soundnstyl

    soundnstyl Member
    Messages: 46

    I don't think I need to lock my hubs? There is nothing in the owners manual about that.
     
  6. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    does it have the switch for the 4x4 or is it the manual shift 4x4?
     
  7. soundnstyl

    soundnstyl Member
    Messages: 46

    Manual shifter... looks like a shift knob. if i do need to lock the hub. where do i do that?
     
  8. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    Ah, wait a minute. He's got the 250 LD - which was later renamed the F-150 7770 package. If memory serves me correctly, that truck used the "center lock" system whether you had the manual transfer case lever or the ESOF system. I believe there were two solenoids that controlled the locking and unlocking right by the differential.

    Anybody help me here?
     
  9. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I just pulled out my "repair manual" for the truck. I did not realize they had manual levers too on those trucks.You sure it's a light duty? No locking hubs in the middle of the wheels? If no locking hubs you have a vacuum diaphragm that engages your front axle. It's on the front of the front axle pumpkin. It has a black plastic cover over it. You can take that cover off and have some one shift it into 4X4 and see if it moves. The last time I looked they are like $110 at Advance Auto Parts.While your there buy the repair manual. Really try to not fly blind when repairing your truck. Or friends that have some knowledge and just wing it on repairs.Might consider changing the 90W oil in the axles and Mercon ATF in the transfer case. "The book" will tell you how, fluids to use and how much it takes.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2010
  10. soundnstyl

    soundnstyl Member
    Messages: 46

    this is my baby... I am pretty sure it's light duty... I will double check the wheels and locking hubs tomorrow... thanks for all the info.

    My truck is here... http://www.plowsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88371&stc=1&d=1293572244
     
  11. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    No problem. Let me know we are here to help.
     
  12. thesnowman269

    thesnowman269 Senior Member
    Messages: 954

    You do in fact have the light duty. I had the same exact truck. your problem is with your vaccum system on the front axel. whether it be a leaking hose or what who knows but that is where your attention should be focused. I personally had the same problem and decided to get rid of the whole system and make a cable that goes in place if the vaccum and actuates the front diff. $40 at napa and you know its always going to work.anywho go to F150online and use the search function over there you will find a lot more info about your problem. its a very simple system that actuates the front diff
     
  13. Too Stroked

    Too Stroked Senior Member
    Messages: 555

    That is indeed the "light duty" F-250 which was later renamed the F-150 7700 package. And it does mean you have a vacuum operated system up on the front differential with no actual "locking hubs." As has already been mentioned, if you skate over to F-150 Online and do some searching, you'll find lots of information in the 1997-2003 Forum over there.
     
  14. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    I lucked out and my problem was the shift motor which you don't have. I spent $65 on my repair. The "Book" has the test procedure for the front axle. I would think just looking to see if it moves and has vacuum would be a test enough. Might just need a good spray of PB Blaster to break it loose and let it work. It could be a cheap fix!

    Some day I should buy a vacuum tester/pump.
    Maybe next Christmas I tell the Wife I want one.
     
  15. soundnstyl

    soundnstyl Member
    Messages: 46

    Thanks to all that helped... I found out the problem was a melted wire to the actuator. The wires running from the firewall, behind the battery that controls the actuator melted because of my (typical) exhaust manifold leak... replaced the wire, moved it away from the exhaust manifold and insulated. Hopefully it will not melt again! THANKS PLOWSITE!