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95 Chevy CV Joint replacment

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by Arrow, Sep 6, 2004.

  1. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    Can anyone give me a basic how-to on changing my passenger side cv joint on my truck? After shearching through the forum I think I will go with the 1/2 axle replacement, but was wondering if it is worth doing it myself or taking it in? Is it a pian to do or can I get it done in a few hours in my driveway? Going hunting next week so I have to get it done by Friday.It's a 95 chevy 4x4. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    I did the drivers side on mine in a few hours and the drs side is worse than the pass. Best bet is to get a haynes repair manual which will tell you what to do.
     
  3. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    Thanks crash, I've looked through the chilton/haynes book and searched the forums for info. Just making sure there aren't any hidden suprises that I should know about. Been there done that on other repairs!! Did you need any speciel tools to do the job?
    Thanks
    Arrow
     
  4. Robhollar

    Robhollar Senior Member
    Messages: 766

    I did mine less then an hour each side. Take the axle nut off then the wheel, drop the lower a arm via the lower ball joint and swing the arm out of the way pull the joint and put back together. Now dont get me wrong its a little tough to get the arm out of the way enough, but i can be done...Rob
     
  5. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    Well I changed the 1/2 axle and everything seemed fine. Got up to the mountians and the truck would not lock into 4 wheel drive. Looked underneath at the axle (pass. side) and it has a lot of left to right play in it. Could something have come loose in the differential to cause this. Thanks in advance
    Arrow
     
  6. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    If anyone could give me any clue as what to look for I would very much appreciate it. My truck is sitting on the side of the mountain and I have to go back up this weekend to look at it. Hopefully it is dry enough to get it out but not sure. Any ideas???
     
  7. vector6

    vector6 Senior Member
    Messages: 150

    what exactly do you mean ? did you get the axle snapped back in the diff ?, you didnt lose the circlip on the diff end, where it goes in the diff did ya ?
     
  8. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    Vector, Thanks for the reply. I've read through this forum and other books and I can't find how the axle is held into the diff. I've heard 1) that it could be bearings and gears costing about $800.00, and 2)there is a retaining clip that possibly fell of in the diff. Just trying to get more info on what i should be looking for. There was no grinding at all, the 4x4 just would not lock in. I can't find a good picture that shows the front diff and how the output shaft is held into position within the diff. Does that help?
    Thanks
     
  9. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    Could you explain about getting the shaft "snapped back in the diff. and about the circlip. I think that is the info I'm looking for.
     
  10. vector6

    vector6 Senior Member
    Messages: 150

  11. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    Vector,
    Thats the one. The side with the solinoid is the side that the output shaft (I think that is what it is called) has the left to right play in it. Is that where the circlip is that you were talking about, inside the diff? How would I go about repairing it?
    Thanks
    Again!!
     
  12. Arrow

    Arrow Junior Member
    Messages: 27

    After looking at the Chiltons book I guess it would be the Axle shaft that has the play in it. What I am thinking is that the snapring on the end of the axle shaft may have come off or broke. Also it looks like I would need to pull the Axle tube assembly to replace the snapring. Would this be correct?
    Arrow