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93 F-150 problem

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by truck1500, Dec 8, 2003.

  1. truck1500

    truck1500 Member
    Messages: 56

    93 F-150 4x4 problem

    was wondering if you guys could help me out when i have my truck in four wheel and i turn the wheel an go the truck jurks it fine when i drive straight just when i have to turn. is there some bearings that are going bad. what do you guys think.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2003
  2. SIPLOWGUY

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 678

    If you are using the truck in 4WD on dry pavement it will do that. You should never use 4WD on dry pavement because the tires need to "slip" a little. The 1st 4WD I looked at did that and I walked away because I thought something was wrong. I have a 93 F150 too. I had to sit out this storm because every time I raised the plow the volt gage got buried. I was afraid of getting stuck. I'm going to try putting a 130 amp alternator from a Ford Econoline on. Any ideas?

    f150lf.jpg
     
  3. truck1500

    truck1500 Member
    Messages: 56

    thanks for your help i thought that something was wrong i tryed it on pavement thats why. cause then we got some snow and i tryed it then and it work just fine. guess it was that. thanks
     
  4. truck1500

    truck1500 Member
    Messages: 56

    i am kinda having that same problem with mine when i raise it and stuff the 130 amp alternater might work im not totally sure first time with a ford and first time with a blade. i was going to try and see if maybe that a higher amp battery would work.
     
  5. SIPLOWGUY

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 678

    I'm hoping to get it done this weekend. I love my Fords! I was a GM car man but ALWAYS a Ford truck man. I'll let you know how the alternator works out.
     
  6. Crash935

    Crash935 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,377

    Before you go replacing your alt, check out all the battery connections for your plow. Severe amp draw from the plow is usually a bad battery connection or a motor going bad.
     
  7. SIPLOWGUY

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 678

    Thanks for the info crash but even the last few seasons the alternator was discharging alot with the plow operation. I'm sure by now and considering the battery is 4 years old it's time to upgrade!
     
  8. mylawn03

    mylawn03 Senior Member
    Messages: 229

    Is the plow wiring hooked up to fuse? seems like the fuse should blow before anything will. I plow with a 95 F-150 Ext. Cab and I've gone through a few fuses but I haven't blown anything else, even with the stock alternator. I also have a sno-way with down pressure and if anything can blow out an alternator, its that, but I haven't experienced any problems. I'd check your connections, make sure you have a big enough battery, and make sure your plow is fused, unless you really feel the need to, you shouldn't need a bigger alternator.
     
  9. SIPLOWGUY

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 678

    I installed a 130 amp alternator, a new tensioner, idler pully, serpentine belt and a new Motorcraft battery. I plowed Sunday at JFK airport with no problem. The gauge drops a little when raising the plow but not at all like before. I think I'll be OK! Thanks for all your advice. I'm hoping to get to all those terminals anyhow bfore next storm! Happy holidays to you and your family! :)
     
  10. computerguy

    computerguy Member
    Messages: 88

    '99 F150 & Snoway

    Hmmm, this thread give me some food for thought. I have a '99 F150 4.6 gasser. Think it comes with a 95 amp alternator. Just had a Snoway 7.5 with downpressure. This was the frst storm I went out on. Truck and plow performed well. I am experiencing the lights dim when I raise the plow or turn the plow. The voltmeter doesn't budge. The dealer installed it so I believe my first order of business is to check where all the fuses are. It is the original battery so maybe that is the second thing to check I guess although up to now the battery has been fine. I only have 22k miles on the rig.
    Any other suggestions?
    I was thinking about upgrading the alt to a 130 amp. Comments on that? Pep Boys said there is a unit thats an optiona and should fit. If anyone knows more on that would love to hear.
    Let it snow!
     
  11. Plow Meister

    Plow Meister PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,174

    A lot of guys plow with only their marker lights on and headlights off. Headlights drain around 20 amps from the alt. Some light dimming is usual but if it is severe than I would first attempt plowing with headlights off. If the plow still drains too much, check connections for corosion, clean where necessary. Lastly upgrade the alternator.

    One other thing. You may also want to invest in adding a second battery. This way the current doesn't get yanked from the alternator so severely. It will make the alternator last longer.
     
  12. computerguy

    computerguy Member
    Messages: 88

    Just curious. How come you shy away from the upgraded alternator? :confused: I priced it at $129 for a reman 130 amp model.
    As soon as we have a day over 20 I will check the connections. Someone also recommended dielectric grease.

    Thanx

    Joe
     
  13. Plow Meister

    Plow Meister PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,174

    I would just first eliminate any other drains on the electrical system first. It would be like telling someone with their e-brake stuck on to get a bigger engine to compensate for the added drag. I know it is a bit different but the point still stands. By adding a second battery it would be like me (at 200#'s) hitting you (at 100 #'s) in the arm (alternator) really hard. Since you have no meat on your bones, it would really hurt. By adding more meat to your bones, like a second battery, you soften the blow to the arm.

    I do believe every plow truck should have a heavy duty alternator. There are other factors also.
     
  14. wavemaster

    wavemaster Junior Member
    Messages: 11

    Upgrading Alternator

    I need to upgrade mine, it is probably 70 or 80 Amp. Where do you get them? Local parts stores only care the ones that I have.

    91 F150

    Thanks,

    Robert
     
  15. mylawn03

    mylawn03 Senior Member
    Messages: 229

    try 4wheelparts.com. Their an off-road parts company but they do carry alternators.

    Whoops, just checked, and it seems they only carry alternators for chevy's. Sorry for wasting a post.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2004
  16. MickiRig1

    MickiRig1 PlowSite Veteran
    Messages: 3,617

    Summitracing.com has upgrade alternators for most trucks. A lot of automotive electrical shops ( re builders ) can upgrade your stock alternator to a bigger output. If you have one battery put the biggest you can fit in. I have a 950 cold cranking amps which has lasted 3 seasons. Your lights will dim with pump usage, it is a voltage drop because of the big amp drain of the pump. Notice where your volt gage runs when the truck is fully charged. If it stays lower, your draining your battery. If you truck starts to stumble and miss when you trigger the pump ( let go of switch ) you are way low on power and need to run around a while and charge up the battery. If the parking lot etc has lights plow with just your amber beacon light on and let it charge up for the next job.
     
  17. juggernaut

    juggernaut Member
    Messages: 84

    Truck 1500 that is just your front axle ujoints at the knuckles binding when they rotate as SIPlowGuy stated it is normal operation for these trucks.
     
  18. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    No thats not it at all! When you go around a corner all 4 of your wheels take a different path around the corner. With this different path each wheel will end up traveling at different speeds. This difference in speeds is why vehicles have differentials! The problem is when you have it in 4wd the transfer case splits the power 50/50, there is no way for the t-case to deal with the front tires spinning at different speeds then the rear.

    That hopping is the front tires trying to go a different speed then the rear tires (which the t-case wont let happen) until they finally loose traction and spin. This is very much bad as it will stretch out the chain in the t-case. Thats a sure way to destroy a t-case. And let me tell you when that t-case chain brakes when your going down the road it will pretty much destroy that whole case. I've seen the aftermath of a chain letting go on a Jeep. It took off the whole back of the case and rear output. The drive shaft came loose and took out the exhaust and smashed the underside of the body and did some good damage to the rear axle.

    Don't use 4wd on dry pavement.

    The newer trucks and SUV's with AWD have a differential in the transfer case that can vary the amount of power being sent to the axles. But thats another story.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2004
  19. SIPLOWGUY

    SIPLOWGUY Senior Member
    Messages: 678

    I couldn't have said it better which obviously I didn't! Thanks foe elaborating and clarifying Cocco!;)
     
  20. cocco78

    cocco78 Senior Member
    Messages: 158

    Hey, I may not know much about plows but I have more miles off road on my Jeep than on road! So if I ever have a plow question this is the first place I stop!