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87 sub. lift question

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by pe31153, Mar 20, 2003.

  1. pe31153

    pe31153 Junior Member
    Messages: 4

    Hey guys, I was thinking of lifting my 87 1500 suburban. Nothing crazy, maybe 4 inches. On some of the lift kits, you have the choice of blocks or new springs. The truck is starting to sag in the back a bit. I have had blocks in there before but if i'm going to be getting a kit, it seems like a lot of money to choose blocks when you can get them for next to nothing alone. Also could 3/4 ton springs be put in my truck. I don't know much about this and any advice would be appreciated. thanks
     
  2. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    I'd go with the kit with the complete rear springs.This will help solve your sag problem as well.You could ask the company supplying the lift if they can up the spring rate a bit too.

    You could go up to 3/4 ton springs,or get your spring pack rebuilt to heavier specs.Only problem would be a decrease in ride quality,and less articulation,which defeats one of the purposes of the lift.

    Using blocks tends to lead to axle wrap and wheel hop problems.NEVER use blocks in the front,your just asking for trouble.

    If your just concerned about height of the truck,and weight carrying abilty,not articulation,then make your own lift kit.Take it to a spring shop and have them add a leaf front and rear,and rearch the springs to the height you desire.Add longer shocks,make some bumpstop spacers,and just buy the appropriate steering block for the amount of lift you added.If you don't go to high,you can get away without longer brake lines and vent hoses.
     
  3. biere

    biere Junior Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 2

    I worked in a spring shop but did mostly king pins and this is the book answer on old springs.

    You don't rearch leaf springs that are over 2 years old.

    Adding to the pack happens, but it is more a substitute and guess than a true answer. It does work, but several times people come back for more or less. Same goes for using overloads when your main leaf springs are old and weak.

    I hate blocks. No blocks in the front ever as mentioned. In the back they give leverage when you look at the drive shaft and applied power to where the force hits the leaf springs. I have a one ton chassis cab chevy with a small block, I would use blocks in it before I would use blocks in a similar truck with a big block.
    We are playing with leverage and power matters in these equations. But I avoid blocks even with a small block engine. The brakes use the same leverage when stopping and a truck is too complex for my cheap education to cover everything. But leverage is something most people understand and can comprehend.

    But more leafs are easy. And if you don't want a one ton truck ride you get the soft ride lift kits.

    Running a search will show all 1/2 ton and 3/4 tons are different than one tons because the one tons have different frames and spring spacing I believe. Personally In don't like stock springs and feel a spring shop is competitive, and I no longer work for one so that is an honest opinion.

    If the truck is your normal daily toy and you don't load it, some of the soft ride 1500 kits will ride nice and give you the lift. If you tow a heavy trailer with a lot of tongue weight or haul a lot in the burban, I would go with a heavier set of rear leafs.

    If you could get a stock set of new and unused rear leafs for your burban and you did not load the thing much or tow a lot I would say blocks may make a lot of sense. However, it is rare for that to occur, and when I worked in a spring shop I could come up with a lot of stuff. In every case my cheapest option was to build a new leaf pack which my shop would do to compete with some of the lift options found in agazines.

    Do run a search on ride quality, I am new to this site and still playing in the archives but simply going to heaviee weight carrying springs is not always the answer.