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85' F-250 Ole Thunder

Discussion in 'Ford Trucks' started by Plowking, Mar 12, 2003.

  1. Plowking

    Plowking Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    I have a 1985 F-250 I could use a hand with.
    When you turn the key to start the engine,and it turns real easy the engine fires. If the key feels a little tight when it turns,nothing happens. It seams to be worse when it gets colder. I put in a new key cylinder and thought it was fixed but still the same.
    The other problem I have is when the truck does start it will not idle. The choke is working right,the high idle isworking right and the low idle is right on the money when the truck is warm. After the truck is warmed up(15min.)it runs great. It has a 351 cu. in. with a motorcraft 4 barrel which I have replaced twice with Tomco reman carbs. I have sprayed starting fluid all over the top of the engine to find a vacume leak and can't.
    I hate to let the old girl go. Its the best truck in the fleet.(the only one without a payment book)


    Thanks for any info

    PLOWKING
     
  2. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    Twisting the key transfers the movement to a rod that actually activates the switck further down the steering column. See if the rod is binding on anything or try spraying a lubricant into the slide switch. This might help.

    How have you verified that the choke is working?
     
  3. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Sounds like you need to set up the carb.Choke pull off and fast idle speed would be the first to look at.Most rebuilt carbs are NOT set up when rebuilt,you have to do it all when you install it.This is most ikely your problem.

    The key cylinder also actuates the locking mechanism to lock the steering wheel.There are quite a few little alloy and magnesium parts which tend to wear out,and become sticky.It will require some disassembly and repair,or just swap in a used column.
     
  4. Plowking

    Plowking Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    The choke closes and the high idle sets when you step hard on the gas pedal. The truck starts, runs for 5 seconds and dies as if it has a vacume leak. If you keep feathering the throttle until its warm, it will run and idle fine. I forgot to mention the choke pulls off a little as soon as the engine starts, then pulls off completly when you kick off high idle

    If the problem were to be a vacume leak at the manifold gasket, is it posable the leak is resealing when the block is warm?


    As far as the ignition problem, I bought a new switch and will install it later today. I'll let you guy's know how its going.


    Thanks again for your help,

    PLOWKING
     
  5. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Could the choke pulloff be opening the choke to far ? If you adjust the choke pull off to open the choke less it will richen the mixture,and maybe solve your problem.It is a very sensitive adjustment.You can have someone do it manually by hand,when you start it to see if it helps.
     
  6. Plowking

    Plowking Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    I want to thank you guys for all your help!

    The ignition switch did the job as far as the starting goes. I am still having a hard time trying to keep it running when its cold. I worked on the choke again last night and it seams to work best right were its at. I bought this truck second hand and when I got it all the emission gear was hacked off,pluged off or just plain gone. Every vacume line is sealed off (golf tee, cap). It really seams to load up after it starts and the choke is pulled open. Is it possable that the idle circut in the carb is messed up? I talked to a local mechanic and he said they have had a rough time with Tomco reman carbs.


    Thanks again


    PLOWKING
     
  7. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    It sounds like you don't have emissions inspections from the condition of your truck. What I would do in your case is begin replacing pertinent vacuum lines, all you really need is a line to the brake booster, an advance line to the distributor and a line to the PCV valve. Then put on an Edlbrock universal carb. Technically this would violate emissions laws, but you are already not in compliance. The Edlbrock won't have the sophisticated circuitry the factory carb does, fewer adjustments and less to go wrong.
     
  8. wyldman

    wyldman Member
    Messages: 3,265

    Pelican is probably right,the Edelbrock,or any good aftermarket carb would probably be better than what you have.His recommendations on what vacuum lines to hook up were right on too.Just make sure it is a carb problem before you go spending money on another one.
     
  9. Plowking

    Plowking Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    That was my next move after I monkey with the egr valve. If there are no emission parts being used do i need vacume to the egr valve?


    thanks PLOWKING
     
  10. Plowking

    Plowking Junior Member
    Messages: 23

    I always bought Holly carbs but would like to try an Edlebrock. Where can I get a good price on one and what cfm, 600?

    Thanks again

    PLOWKING
     
  11. Pelican

    Pelican 2000 Club Member
    Messages: 2,075

    Try Summit Racing Equipment or JEG Racing Equipment, they are usually within a few dollars of each other.

    For a Holley, get the 600 with vacuum secondaries, the edlbrock will be 650 cfm. The Edlbrock is easier to work on than the Holley, the top comes off in one piece and allows internal adjustments without dumping gas all over the place. I've had both.
     
  12. paul soccodato

    paul soccodato Senior Member
    Messages: 430

    Pelican, i'm going to have to disagree with you.

    the Holley is much easier to work on, and tune correctly, than the Edelbrock.

    anyway, they are both good carbs. you cant go wrong with either one.