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84 Scottsdale 4wd info needed

Discussion in 'Chevy Trucks' started by newuser1, Jan 31, 2007.

  1. newuser1

    newuser1 Junior Member
    from Vt
    Messages: 7

    My brother-in-law has an '84 Scottsdale 4x4 that won't engage into 4wd. What should I be looking for? Is there an electrical/vacuum actuator on these? Is a manual locking hub kit available?

    I haven't crawled underneath it but my b-i-l says he hasn't seen any sort of actuator. I'm not so sure about this......can anyone shed some light on this issue?

    Thanks in advance,
    Jb
     
  2. Could be in troublesome factory automatic hubs. I'd replace them anyway. Plenty of manual kits available.

    No noises or banging?

    Pretty simple system in '84...no actuators or anything really other than t-case lever and hubs up front...
     
  3. newuser1

    newuser1 Junior Member
    from Vt
    Messages: 7

    Yes, I believe there are some grinding/not_meshing_correctly sounds.

    So there are plenty of kits available huh? Care to venture a guess as to the mfg. and/or pricing?

    How do the hubs actually get engaged when you put the lever into 4wd? I'm more curious than anything else at this point.......

    TIA,
    Jb
     
  4. CAT 245ME

    CAT 245ME PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,032

    I had to replace my factory hubs 2 years ago with new locking hubs (warn) on my 85 scottsdale, when the old ones went you would here a light snapping sound coming from the old hubs which ment they were done and were no longer turning the front tires, it was not a big job to replace, a new set of hubs are not expensive like warn or mile marker, you can check prices on ebay, there is often new sets on there for auction for good deals. On the old chevys the 4x4 set up is very simple.
     
  5. sweetk30

    sweetk30 PlowSite.com Addict
    Messages: 1,588

    if he dosnt have lockouts and whats there has a 4x4 emblem on them i bet thay blew up. get some prem warn hubs. and also what tcase is in it. cast iron or aluminum. sometimes the aluminum 208 can blow up internaly. but sound like front hubs.
     
  6. You can get inexpensive manual hubs for less than $100...can go up over $100 for premium that you dont really need unless you wheel it hard. I used inexpensive warn hubs for years on my plow truck..no problems.

    Factory automatic ones are actually sorta simple but springs and such wear out or catastrophic failure occurs.

    When you are rolling in 2wheel, front hubs are free. When you engage t-case and move, drive shaft begins to spin and essentially the force locks the hub and wheel...if everything is OK. When you shift out of 4x4, hubs remain locked until you reverse a rotation or two (5-10ft) and since the drive shaft is not "driving", there is no "drag" and hubs unlock...again...if everything is OK.

    I knew mine were shot when, even after dissassembling and cleaning in transmision fluid, one would remain locked and it'd start banging. Engagement was always fine...
     
  7. BOSS550

    BOSS550 Senior Member
    Messages: 212

    IF it works out the hubs are the problem ( they probably are-- damn things should have been illegal in the first place) and you aren't worried about wear and tear on the rest of the drivetrain you can pull the entire hub assembly out and replace it with the solid gears from earlier GM full time 4x4 front axles. Dana 44's and GM 10 bolts both share the same outer axle spline and it doesn't matter if you get the gears out of a 6 lug or 8 lug full time rear-- the outer axles are the same.
     
  8. newuser1

    newuser1 Junior Member
    from Vt
    Messages: 7

    Thanks guys! I really appreciate the input. My b-i-l had one of the hub assemblys out yesterday. The plastic outer cage was shot.....and that's just the one side....who knows on the other.

    As far as the t-case...I'm hoping it's got the NP205 cast iron...but not sure.

    Thanks again! I'll post any further questions if I have a hard time finding the right manual hub kit.

    Jb
     
  9. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Newuser,if the truck still has the original drive train in it, It'll have an NP 208 transfer case (aluminum).
     
  10. 1 tons used 205s right up until '87 (91 Crew cabs). Is the truck a 1 ton?

    Sounds like you already have manual hubs...I dont remember any plastic in the factory automatic ones.

    If the thing is a 1 ton, it woulda come from factory with manual hubs....those are indeed expensive...limited on availability. Any 4x4 shop will be able to help you out...check online...
     
  11. Buster F

    Buster F Senior Member
    Messages: 208

    I replaced the factory auto hubs in my 84 3/4 ton last year. I bought a set of manual lockers from autozone for about $60 and it took me an hour or so to do both sides - inexpensive, easy fix. Good luck
     
  12. 3/4 and 1/2 use 10bolt front axle (6 or 8 lug)...inexepensive hubs readily available. The 3500/1ton uses dana60. Hubs pretty expensive...but still fairly easy to do.
     
  13. newuser1

    newuser1 Junior Member
    from Vt
    Messages: 7

    According to the VIN, it's a 1/2 ton p/u. It did not come with manual hubs, the autos are presently installed. I recall my b-i-l trying to find the right manual hubs and having an issue with the listing for 8 lug, but his are 6 lug.....I'll confirm with him tonight.

    Also, one of the parts stores told him that for his situation, he needed a "differential kit" as well.......again...I can confirm this tonight.....but you know how some parts guys are.....

    As far as the plastic outer cage, I watched him dismantle the hub last night and there was a plastic piece that was shredded......it's item #22 on this exploded view from Autozone....

    http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroke..._us/0900823d/80/11/58/73/0900823d80115873.jsp
     
  14. payton

    payton Senior Member
    Messages: 470

  15. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    On a 77-87 truck it doesn't matter if it's a 6 lug 1/2 ton or an 8 lug 3/4 ton...they take the same hub's.As to the "differential kit" the parts store guy was referring too,you don't need one.There for converting an NP 203 full time transfer case to part time 4wd. Your truck doesn't have a NP203,it'll have an NP 208 like I mentioned in my first reply.
     
  16. newuser1

    newuser1 Junior Member
    from Vt
    Messages: 7

    Ahhh...now see...this is the type of info I'm looking for........this site ROCKS!!!! Thanks again for all the input.

    Just went out tonight and purchased the manual hubs, let you know if I have any problems, although it's looking like this is going to be a weekend job.....nothing better than some good 'ol "garage therapy" with friends and cold beer.....:)

    Jb
     
  17. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    One other thing, when your replacing a set of factory auto hub's with manual you need to remove and discard the inner snap ring and thrust washer on the axle shaft. If you don't remove it, the new hub won't fit all the way in the hub cavity.Their a little hard to see so if you don't know to remove it you'll pull your hair out trying to figure out why the lock out hub won't fit.
     
  18. newuser1

    newuser1 Junior Member
    from Vt
    Messages: 7

    .....understood......thanks!

    Jb
     
  19. newuser1

    newuser1 Junior Member
    from Vt
    Messages: 7

    Just an update....managed to swap over to manual hubs in about 30 minutes. I can see how it would take someone longer if they were not familiar with pulling out the auto hubs, but what a piece 'o cake!!!!

    Now if I could only teach my b-i-l how to plow I'd be all set :)

    Thanks a million peeps!!!!!!!

    Jb
     
  20. B&B

    B&B PlowSite Fanatic
    Messages: 12,777

    Good to hear you got it all fixed up!